i was driving the other day, and my exhaust came apart. it broke right at the flange with the spring loaded bolts. I believe that the engine side of the flange is still in tact, and the pipe after the flange rusted and snapped. what is my best option to fix this? i am thinking removing the muffler and putting in a new flowmaster super 44.

 

so i'm thinking that i need part number 942446 for the muffler. is this correct?

here's what i am thinking of doing. either get a pipe that has a flange and will attach to the existing pipe (option A), or cut the existing flange off and somehow attach a pipe to it then to the muffler (option B). also, instead of connecting to the existing tailpipe, just shoot a shorter pipe out the side with a tip on it. is this possible with a step-side bed? which option would be easier/cheaper?

 

Screw it......pull off all the tailpipe from that flange-back.

Get a offset in/center out flowmaster. Head over to an exhaust shop. Have them cut just before that flange w/ the springy bolts. That's 2.5". Have them weld on 2.5" 3-bolt flange there, then build a 2.5" exhaust from that back. bam....problem solved...how i'd do it!

 

so are you suggesting 942546? what do you recommend for the tailpipe?

 

i found this setup on therangerstation.com. i am thinking of cutting off the flange, and welding in new 2.5" pipe, welding on the new muffler (40 series 9425432), and welding in these tail pipes with the tips.

my questions are:
will this setup be any good?
is it possible for an exhaust shop to do it if i buy the muffler and tips? if so any ideas on cost?

40 series delta flow muffler
2.5" offset inlet and 2.25" dual outlet
3" tips

 

of course an exhaust shop can do it......but WILL they for a good price. Best bet is to drive around and price it out. Then see what it'll be if you buy the muffler and tips from them. I'll go out and get some shots of my flange..

yes...that part number is correct.

 

how hard would it be to clamp instead of weld? or would that just be ?

 

not lame...look at the pic i posted.....i'm a fan of using stainless band clamps for lap joints. No biggie...heck...you can do all your stuff using band clamps. I like them because your exhaust is removable easily. And these clamps don't bend up the pipes...360 degree seal w/o messing up the pipe.

 

IMO weld is so much better. the band clamps are cool but they leak.

 

where did you post the pic? i don't see it. how would i go about bending the pipes for the tail sections?

i know welds would be much better, but i'm on a college student budget, and i'm sure welding and exhaust shop work wont fit into that budget.

 

I used clamps the other day. i know you have a little bit more to do though.



I'm familiar with the college student budget.

goodluck

Lee

 

weld is so much better......but i have never had a problem using band clamps. I have however, had leaky issues with those ubolt exhaust clamps.

 

it is nearly impossible to get a flowmaster to seal w/o welding it...never had any experience w/the band clamps tho

 

Finally providing you with pics...

similar set up would be dirt cheap.









umm.....i've ran as of today, 3 different flowmasters on my truck. Super40, original40, Super44....most w/ band clamps, super40 was welded later down the road. No leaks. What you see in the pics, the black crap on the cat-muff pipe, is an leak that started due to a bad band clamp a few years back. what difference is a flowmaster to any other muffler in regards to sealing?

 

so where can you get one of those 3 bolt flanges? i cant seem to find them around.

 

muffler shops got 'em..gotta weld them on....or...you can use 2.5" header flanges and clamp them.