How in the hell do i allign it? I got a allignment tool for the camshaft sensor to allign the camshaft i take it???...The damn thing didnt come with directions

 

CAUTION: After installation, do not loosen the synchronizer bolt and rotate the synchronizer assembly. The synchronizer assembly is not adjustable. Do not loosen the synchronizer bolt after the alignment tool has been removed in order to align the CMP electrical connector for any reason. If the electrical connector is not in the correct position, the synchronizer assembly must be removed, the alignment tool and the assembly reinstalled if the engine has not been rotated from top dead center (TDC) of the compression stroke on the No. 1 cylinder.


CAUTION: Do not turn the crankshaft or camshaft during the removal and installation procedure or the fuel system timing will be out of time with the engine, and possibly cause engine damage.

CAUTION: A special tool must be used during the installation of the new synchronizer assembly. Failure to follow this procedure will result in the fuel system being out of time with the engine, possibly causing engine damage.

Install the special tool on the camshaft synchronizer by rotating the tool until it engages the notch in the camshaft synchronizer housing and the armature.

CAUTION: It is very important to coat the gear on the camshaft synchronizer with super premium motor oil or equivalent, prior to installation. Failure to do so could result in gear failure.

NOTE: During installation, the arrow on the special tool will point to 60 degrees off the engine centerline, then rotate clockwise until the oil pump intermediate shaft and camshaft gear engages.

Install the camshaft synchronizer housing assembly so the arrow on the special tool is 15 degrees from the centerline of the engine.

Install the bolt.

Install the camshaft position (CMP) sensor.

 

i didnt know i had to take out the camshaft syncro (whichs is the shaft right?)

 

did you get the whole unit or just the top sensor

 

Man I am pulling my hair out also with this!!

When I put my tool on I can still turn the gear almost a half turn. Is that normal? Where do I set the gear before I drop the Sync in the motor?


I have been searching the web for 8 hrs and can only find info on 3.0 installs.

BTW, I just put a #422 cam in and the sync essembly is removed from the motor.

 

Just found an old thread where Bob was helpin somebody with the same problem

https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...on-sensor.html

Thanks to his pictures I now know that NAPA sold me the wrong frinkin tool!

 

i just bought the sensor and the tool..Was i suppose to buy the whole thing?...How do u know the syncro is messed up and not the sensor?

 

you don't need the whole unit unless it's bad. I've heard it makes a really annoying chirping sound if the bushings go bad in the unit.

I have replaced mine on my 4.0 - just the sensor. It's been awhile, but I do remember that you had to set the crankshaft at, I believe, 10deg AFTER TDC. there is a timing mark on the crank, but that is 10 deg BEFORE TDC, so I had to mark the crank at 10 deg after tdc. then you place the cam sensor in using the tool.

I used to have pics for a write up, but never got around to it, problem is my computer with the pics is dead - bad motherboard - so I cant get the pics.

 

The tool is used to correctly position the Synchronizer when the crankshaft is at Top Dead Center compression stroke, cylinder #1. It's zero degrees TDC, not 10 BTDC nor 10 ATDC.

You also need to get the reference angle for the alignment tool from the shop manual for the exact year/model/engine being serviced. The tool is useless without it.

The alignment tool part numbers are application specific. Even if another tool appears to fit, they should not be interchanged or the Synchronizer could be mistimed.

 

So according to Zach's pic, as your standing in front of the truck,you drop the sync in the motor and the arrow on the tool will end up pointing to the 10-11 o'clock position?

 

I don't know the source of Zach's info or which engine/year it's for. Different engines have different procedures. Some point to the rear of the engine, some to the front, some at an angle. The shop manual for each particular engine with a Synchronizer gives the correct orientation.

 

Thats where Im stuck Bob. Even my Haynes manual for my Ranger shows a 3.0 engine in what appears to be a Taurus chassis with an arrow that points to the RIGHT saying thats the front of the engine....wtf? It also says "no specifec angle given for 4.0".

How is it there is no clear cut procedure out there for a 4.0 Ranger?

I think we need to get some pix and when this is figured out make a "how-to" for our tech page just for a 4.0ohv.

 

Aftermarket manuals like Haynes usually cover a range of years, so they are often not very accurate or complete. The only factory manual I have that shows the 4.0 OHV is from a 2000 Explorer - quite possibly the same but no guarantees.

FWIW, here is the 2000 Ex 4.0 OHV procedure:

As always, position the crank at TDC cylinder #1, compression stroke (both valves fully closed). The manual says to start with the arrow on the alignment tool pointing straight back toward the rear of the engine. As the synchronizer is lowered into position, it will rotate slightly due to the helical drive gear (just like a distributor does). As a quick check, the arrow should point toward the original position of the electrical connector when installed correctly.

 

FordTechService.com for a 4.0L ohv being we are talking about 4.0L ohv..

thus why i just copy and pasted the install part of the tech article and the picture showing the reference of it being 15deg off center from the motor you can see the lower intake in the top of the pic and the fuel rails..

 

OK, I was outside today just lookin at my motor tryin to figure this dam sync out when my "old skool" thinkin kicked in.

WTF is all this 60º,75º,15º crap all about anyway??

The tool holds the shaft in one spot.The sensor can only bolt on one way. When you drop the essembly into the motor the tool prevents the shaft from turning without turning the housing with it. There is no way for it to get out of sync as long as the tool stays on. So what does it matter what degree the dam thing is pointing? Everything is lined up and bolted down and as long as you can plug the wires back in it shouldnt matter if the dam thing is pointing 60º,15º or 2º from the centerline.

I dropped mine in tonite and the sensor plug is pointing towards the glovebox and everything plugs rite in.

Heads are on and as soon as I order my pushrods I will know if I am correct on this whole thing.

 

Yes, the angle matters. It can be out of time with the tool in place because there are several teeth on the drive gear creating that many possible positions. If the CMP is substantially out of time, the fuel delivery will be out of synch with the valve events. This may show no symptoms or it could cause a noticeable hesitation and possible CEL.

I would go with the info that Zach posted because it is specifically for the 99~00 4.0 OHV Ranger .

 

Well today I was able to start my motor for the first time since ripping it apart. And just like I was thinking it fired up on the first try. Ported heads+Comp 422 cam = one nasty sounding 4.0!

I Think the only reason you would worry about what angle the sensor is pointing is because of the plug for it being very short so if it was pointing to far to the right you might not have enough wire to plug it in.

 

well now a mechanic says its the distributor gear...Where the hell is that at?

 

there is no distributor in your truck for you to have a distributor gear. it is ont he synchro. you guys are putting wayy too much thought into this.

i did a how-to on it around here somewhere.

remove the sensor from the synchro
roll the motor over slowly until the correct alignment tool falls in
note where the arrow on the tool is pointing
remove the old synchro
put the tool on the new sinchro
drop the new synchro in with the arrow pointing in the same or close to the same spot
secure the new synchro
install the sensor
plug it in
done

its a 30 min MAX job, i do them alot on tauruses at work. they are easy as pie on BL rangers

 

yeah i was like wtf..i dont even have one of those...Im just gonna change the whole camshaft syncro