Installed rebuilt 4.0 SOHC engine with remanufactured fuel injectors in my 2005 Ranger.

New spark plugs and wires.

First startup engine would not idle would run if pushing gas peddle.

Codes P0113 - P0102 pops up, cleaned MAF (noticed enginewould die if MAF is disconnected while running was told it should keep running)

P0174 - P0511 lean on bank 2 and low idle shows up afterclearing the other two went away at least for now.


Changed IAC one from Autozone nobody else had one :-(

Now had 2k RPM! WTF notice the connector plug was straight toward manifold old one was 90 degree.

P0507 code high idle detected no kidding

Took off throttle body cleaned with emery cloth it had alotof carbon build up. It was sticking a little.

Start engine still 2k RPM.

Next day put old IAC back on didn't like fitment of plugtook back to Autozone.

With old IAC started and now it idles! at 700-750

Decided to test drive ran like crap like a bad plug no power.

Decided to put new plugs in after noticing one plug was fouled black. Also

Started it up and took for another test, ran better notgreat engine died after a block would not restart towed back.

Felt like fuel pump was at fault. of course no pressuregauge available.

Replaced fuel pump it started then died noticed fuel gauge non working.

Unhooked fuel supply line at filter, fuel would just dripped no pressure at all.

Did volt and ground checks, found we had ground problemafter probing was at battery negative terminal fixed it. gas gauge works also now

Now fuel shoots for 2-3 seconds then shuts itself, told this is normal.

Hooked everything back up, tried to start runs for a few seconds with no throttle responce at all then dies will not restart. Notice abackfire through intake after turning engine a holding gas peddle down sounds flooded maybe, like carbureted cars sounded when flooded.

Ordered Lisle fuel pressure kit online since nobody had anything around here that would fit.

Received kit my pressure is a solid 60 psi no problem here.

Still have same problem.

Codes P0232 - P1000 checked PCM ground its good pump workswith key on like it should shut after few seconds.

Changed out CSP andcamshaft position sensor.

Still have same problem.


Here I am now

 

Code p01000 means you had battery cable disconnected so ignore that because I am sure you did have it disconnected.

P0232 means fuel pump was getting power after PCM shut off fuel pump relay.
"Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit High"

When PCM closes fuel pump relay it also gets the 12volts that is going to the fuel pump.
That is how it can tell if fuel pump relay is working.

I would check fuel pump relay, maybe swap it with WOT(wide open throttle) relay, they are the same part number and WOT relay is just used to shut off AC compressor at full throttle while driving.

So you have the pressure gauge now, while it is hooked up what happens to the fuel pressure when engine dies?
does it drop or stay at 60-70psi, if it drops then fuel pump is shutting off, could be relay.

If it stays high even after engine is shut off and key is off then injectors are OK, no leaks.
Fuel systems hold pressure for a few months.

Check coil pack firing order, one more time, passenger side especially
3 4
2 6
1 5
front

The 5, 6, 4 can get mixed up, follow each spark plug wire back to it's spark plug, 4 and 5 are easy to mix up.

 

Pressure stays at 55-60 still has 60 after 1 hour


I guess I can try new plugs?


can coil cause this I know I'm getting fire but is enough?
I had an merc outboard the tester lighted up and could see spark but CDI was weak and would not start


New CDI and ran perfect

 

You can test it with another spark plug, blue/white spark is good, yellow is low voltage issue

 

Had wires wrong 5-6 mixed up now backfire has gone away going to put new plugs Saturday




Thanks

 

That side gets me every time.

 

Will try more Saturday
Could inertia switch cause this?
And I keep remembering when the engine was running at first I unplugged the MAF sensor and it died and its not supposed two.

 

Inertia switch is usually open or closed, hard to see intermittent issue with a switch like that.
Could be corroded contacts on wiring, what happens with those is that they have higher resistance which causes heat, which increases resistance even more.
So when powered up they pass voltage for a certain time then the voltage gets less and less as connection heats up.


Not sure on the later models and MAF sensor operation.
In general the engine/computer should run with any sensor disconnected except for the Crank Position Sensor(CKP).
CKP sets spark and fuel timing so computer doesn't even know the starter motor is turning the crank without that signal, so has no reason to start spark or fuel.
Never ran into an intermittent CKP, they rarely fail but if they do it is a "no start" until replaced.

 

Could TPS be killing engine if not on right? how bout DPFE Sensor? heard that might cause this.




Thanks

 

TPS can cause a no start if wires or sensor has a short, but not rough running.

DPFE issue would light up the CEL instantly, emissions systems have very quick triggers on the CEL.
Leaking EGR valve or vacuum leaking to EGR valve, opening it a little, could cause rough idle.
Remove vacuum hose from EGR with engine idling, if engine smooths out then there was vacuum at that hose and there shouldn't be, vacuum on that hose is controlled by a 12volt solenoid, which is controlled by the computer, computer usually isn't at fault, leaky solenoid is more likely, or miss connected hoses.
EGR valve will only get vacuum when engine is at higher RPMs and under a load, it cools the cylinders temps to lower NOx emissions.

DPFE monitors pressure difference at EGR tube and exhaust manifold, using two hoses, if EGR opens pressure in the tube will be less that in the manifold because of flow into the intake.
The bigger the difference the more the EGR valve is open, computer sets flow according to RPM and load, it pulses 12volts to solenoid to open it(send vacuum to EGR Valve) a little or alot.

 

Ordered noid injector test kit in case no start Saturday Anybody have PCM pinout for my truck? or where to find the correct one.


Thanks

 

Ford doesn't release that data as a PIN OUT diagram.
The service manuals have the PCM pins used for each specific circuit, but not as a group.

Google: EEC-V pin out

Most pins are not year specific, the software inside is.

EVTM(electrical vacuum tech manual) are the Ford shop manuals
And you could get the EVTM for your vehicle, it will have details of what each pin is for but in the reverse, i.e. O2 sensor wiring diagram would show what pins are used on PCM, it won't usually have a PCM diagram showing what pins go where, could, just never seen it done that way.

Google: 2005 Ranger EVTM

 

Thanks got it let you know this weekend

 

Once again after about a week of setting the engine started right up and died after 3 seconds.
Okay have good pulse from injectors tested 3 of them with a noid light and have great spark to plugs while cranking, now after clearing PCM and cranking its giving me codes p0231, P0232 and of course p1000, it seem the first two is contradictory ? high volt and low voltage.
inertia switch switch test ok, monitored voltage at the same switch has 8 volts at rest start cranking it goes to 14+ volts then back down charger was hooked at time explaining higher voltage.

still have 60 lbs fuel pressure.

 

Well I figured it out. I decided to do a compression check on a random cylinder which was #5 and it was 60lbs! so went on did check on the rest on same side #4 was 75lbs and #6 was 70lbs all done dry pulled #1 & #2 they both tested in the 140's stopped there since #3 a bitch in this truck to change a plug let alone doing compression check. So then did wet test on bank 2 #4 had 125lbs #5 85lbs #6 90lbs great they broke rings when installing now I got to send it back.


Damn

 

Since this is a 4.0l SOHC my money would be on the valve timing on Bank 2: 4, 5, 6
Mistimed timing chains.

Wet test did come up quite a bit but it will if all spark plugs are not out during a compression test.
Crank speed plays a big part in compression numbers, compression slows crank down.

The seal at the valves/seats and rings is metal on metal so isn't suppose to be, and can't be, "air tight", so there will always be leakage.
The slower the crank turns the more leakage time there is so the lower the numbers overall.
This doesn't matter for the most part, as long as test is conducted the same for all cylinders, i.e. all spark plugs removed, or only 1 spark plug removed from cylinder being tested.

If you remove a spark plug to test a cylinder and don't replace it to test the next cylinder then you can(will) get higher numbers as more and more spark plugs are removed and crank speed increases from less resistance.

This again doesn't matter that much but you need to be aware of it when you move to a "wet test"(adding oil to cylinders) because most spark plugs are now removed, so the lower numbers in the first cylinders tested will jump up even higher(compared to it's dry test), first because of the oil added and second because of increased crank speed.

Oil creates an almost air tight seal for the rings, so numbers should increase quite a bit if they were low to begin with.

 

Tested with all plugs out.

 

Thanks Ron you gave me new hope ordered timing kit hopefully arrives by this weekend.




Thanks




Ed

 

Damn all new kits are on 1 month plus back order, so I ordered a used one on ebay hope it comes in today




ED

 

Retimed engine with kit then did compression check now I have hardly any compression must of done something wrong going to retry this Sunday.

 

Retimed with tools still have low compression on the 3 left bank cylinders,


Must have bent valves or not closing all the way for some reason.




Any ideas ? - I'm Pulling head off this weekend.

 

If you pull the valve cover and put a cylinder so both valves show closed on the cam, then test air pressure holding power via spark plug hole that may save you from pulling a head.

So a leak down test, but don't set for TDC, set for valves closed, because the valve timing is off for that bank.

 

How can the timing be off when the tools are in place? I know I'm not 180 out, I have gone through the timing procedure multiple times with the same results. I have talked to a head shop guy and he says the valves in this engine are easily bent or more likley the valve stems didn't get tipped correctly or not at all which should be done on theses engines after grinding the seats because the valve will set in farther.




Thanks appreciate the replies




Ed

 

The 4.0l SOHC is an interference engine so valves could be bent if that banks cam was out of time enough.

Was just suggesting that test to confirm bent valve before pulling the head.

 

I decided to hook air compressor to #5 cylinder @ TDC and see if there is valve leakage well there is no leakage through the valves but massive leakage into crankcase coming out through blow by hose on right bank. broken rings? wrong pistons ? who knows now I have to pull motor!


Not happy




Ed