Help engine swap 4.0
Help engine swap 4.0
So I did a motor swap from a 98 explorer 4.0 and put it in my 96 ranger 4.0 everything matched had to swap a couple external motor parts. Everything to my knowledge is hooked up right. I turn key and it cranks and cranks i burnt up my starter and replaced it with a new one, same problem. My main positive battery cable gets warm, I checked all grounds, and they all seem to be there. Except the ground on the block, not the head to firewall. need to know where it's located and what it attaches to. If that don't work then maybe timing.
Welcome to the forum
1998 Explorer had 2 different 4.0l engines, 4.0l OHV(same as 1996 Ranger) or the 4.0l SOHC not the same, they look much different
Assuming 4.0l OHV
You would have needed to swap the upper and lower intake from the 1996 to the 1998, as they used different injectors and fuel delivery(1 hose and 2 hose)
Pretty much everything else would be plug and play
Do 50/50 test
Spray fuel into the engine then crank it over
If it starts and dies you have fuel delivery issue, injectors or fuel pump
If it doesn't start then no spark, coil pack not plugged in or blown fuse
1998 Explorer had 2 different 4.0l engines, 4.0l OHV(same as 1996 Ranger) or the 4.0l SOHC not the same, they look much different
Assuming 4.0l OHV
You would have needed to swap the upper and lower intake from the 1996 to the 1998, as they used different injectors and fuel delivery(1 hose and 2 hose)
Pretty much everything else would be plug and play
Do 50/50 test
Spray fuel into the engine then crank it over
If it starts and dies you have fuel delivery issue, injectors or fuel pump
If it doesn't start then no spark, coil pack not plugged in or blown fuse
You always check compression on a engine that can't start, you disable startup
Remove all spark plugs, assuming 1 spark plug per cylinder
Then test 1 cylinder at a time by using starter motor to spin the engine
When cranking you will hear the cylinder being tested "hit" compression stroke, can't miss it, you need to hear that 5 or 6 times, for each test
Write down cylinder number and results
Remove all spark plugs, assuming 1 spark plug per cylinder
Then test 1 cylinder at a time by using starter motor to spin the engine
When cranking you will hear the cylinder being tested "hit" compression stroke, can't miss it, you need to hear that 5 or 6 times, for each test
Write down cylinder number and results
50/50 test
Spray fuel into the engine directly, quick start(ether), gasoline, carb cleaner, brake cleaner, all work to test spark
If it starts, runs and dies, spark is good, fuel system is not working
If it doesn't fire then no spark..........or no compression
Single wire spark testers often don't work on Waste Spark systems, used in Fords since 1989
Same for grounded spark plug
These can work but not reliably
They are don't confirm spark timing, which 50/50 test does, lol
Spray fuel into the engine directly, quick start(ether), gasoline, carb cleaner, brake cleaner, all work to test spark
If it starts, runs and dies, spark is good, fuel system is not working
If it doesn't fire then no spark..........or no compression
Single wire spark testers often don't work on Waste Spark systems, used in Fords since 1989
Same for grounded spark plug
These can work but not reliably
They are don't confirm spark timing, which 50/50 test does, lol
On the side note. A guy I talked to said if the 8th # on the VIN don't match my VIN it won't work and i can't exactly find the vin for the swapped motor cuz idk exactly what explorer it came from
If the valve covers are metal its a 4.0l OHV, VIN "X"
If the valve covers are plastic its a 4.0l SOHC, VIN "E"
1997-2000 Explorer could have either 4.0l engine, the 4.0l SOHC was a "pay extra" option in those years, 4.0l OHV was the "standard" engine, so more common
If the valve covers are plastic its a 4.0l SOHC, VIN "E"
1997-2000 Explorer could have either 4.0l engine, the 4.0l SOHC was a "pay extra" option in those years, 4.0l OHV was the "standard" engine, so more common
So apparently looking into it more. The computer for a 98 explorer only fits 98 explorer and 97-99 mountaineer means my 96 ranger computer won't start a 98 explorer. Need computer from explorer.
If you swapped over your 1996 upper and lower intakes with injectors and fuel rail, making the 1998 4.0l OHV a 1996 4.0l OHV it will work just fine
1998 4.0l OHV used a Returnless fuel system(in Ranger), 1996 is a return type
1998 4.0l OHV used a Returnless fuel system(in Ranger), 1996 is a return type
There are only 3 coils inside a V6 coil pack
Firing order on coil pack
[3 4]
[2 6]
[1 5]
front
The cylinders are in Matched Pairs to balance a V6 engine, both cylinders spark at the same time as both are at TDC
After cranking the engine pull out any spark plug, its tip should be WET with fuel, if not then no fuel from injectors
If it is WET then light the tip with a match/lighter, should burn fast and bright, if not then you have water in the system or very old gas so no longer "fuel"
Yes, a back fire would indicate at least one spark
Easy to test if you have 12volts at coil pack with Key On, 4 wires, red wire has the 12volts, other 3 are grounds with Key on
CEL(check engine light) should come on with key on, that means computer has boot up correctly, no CEL= no computer and no start
CEL should go off as soon as engine starts to spin from activating starter motor, that means Computer is getting a valid timing signal from Crank sensor so it will start spark and then fuel injectors 1 second later
If CEL stays on while cranking or flashes then no timing signal
If you don't have a history of the "new" engine, check compression on at least 2 cylinders, need above 120psi to start cold, expected is 155-165psi on a 4.0l OHV
Gasoline cannot be ignited with a spark, yes the movie guys take liberties with that one, lol
Only Gasoline VAPOR can be ignited with a spark
When gasoline is cold it has very little vapor, can't smell it, as it warms up you can smell it so more vapor
Compression heats up the gasoline so there is enough vapor in a cylinder for a spark to ignite it, needs to be over 30% vapor
So a cold engine is a hard start unless compression is high enough
Quick Start(starting fluid) in a spray can is Ether, which is a combustible vapor at lower temps, you can SMELL it easily, lol
Which makes it a good cold engine starting fluid, once cylinders fire a few times they get warm enough inside to get more gasoline vapor from the gas that's entering from the injectors
That's why gasoline engines need to be Choked when cold, if cold gasoline is 15% vapor then you need at least twice the amount of gasoline to get to the 30% required for a cylinder to fire
Fuel injection computers get the outside temp from an air temp sensor and a coolant temp sensor, and then "Choke" the engine for cold start, add the extra fuel needed to get above the 30%
Carbureted engines used a choke plate to restrict air flow into the top of the carb, so more fuel was sucked in from the Jets below the choke plate
Firing order on coil pack
[3 4]
[2 6]
[1 5]
front
The cylinders are in Matched Pairs to balance a V6 engine, both cylinders spark at the same time as both are at TDC
After cranking the engine pull out any spark plug, its tip should be WET with fuel, if not then no fuel from injectors
If it is WET then light the tip with a match/lighter, should burn fast and bright, if not then you have water in the system or very old gas so no longer "fuel"
Yes, a back fire would indicate at least one spark
Easy to test if you have 12volts at coil pack with Key On, 4 wires, red wire has the 12volts, other 3 are grounds with Key on
CEL(check engine light) should come on with key on, that means computer has boot up correctly, no CEL= no computer and no start
CEL should go off as soon as engine starts to spin from activating starter motor, that means Computer is getting a valid timing signal from Crank sensor so it will start spark and then fuel injectors 1 second later
If CEL stays on while cranking or flashes then no timing signal
If you don't have a history of the "new" engine, check compression on at least 2 cylinders, need above 120psi to start cold, expected is 155-165psi on a 4.0l OHV
Gasoline cannot be ignited with a spark, yes the movie guys take liberties with that one, lol
Only Gasoline VAPOR can be ignited with a spark
When gasoline is cold it has very little vapor, can't smell it, as it warms up you can smell it so more vapor
Compression heats up the gasoline so there is enough vapor in a cylinder for a spark to ignite it, needs to be over 30% vapor
So a cold engine is a hard start unless compression is high enough
Quick Start(starting fluid) in a spray can is Ether, which is a combustible vapor at lower temps, you can SMELL it easily, lol
Which makes it a good cold engine starting fluid, once cylinders fire a few times they get warm enough inside to get more gasoline vapor from the gas that's entering from the injectors
That's why gasoline engines need to be Choked when cold, if cold gasoline is 15% vapor then you need at least twice the amount of gasoline to get to the 30% required for a cylinder to fire
Fuel injection computers get the outside temp from an air temp sensor and a coolant temp sensor, and then "Choke" the engine for cold start, add the extra fuel needed to get above the 30%
Carbureted engines used a choke plate to restrict air flow into the top of the carb, so more fuel was sucked in from the Jets below the choke plate
Last edited by RonD; Feb 4, 2024 at 11:32 AM.
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