Hey guys just got my set of JBA headers today. 1674S, I just found out I need 1674S-1. The new headers don't have the port for the EGR tube. I really would like to not have to mess around with trying to return them, I HATE doing that. Got them from Performance Peddler on Ebay, they outsource directly to JBA I got them for 315 bucks. So down to my question, should I remove the EGR valve and plug it and get a new tune from Doug at Bama? Would I still lose performance from Deleting the EGR like I have read? Thanks!

 

Since EGR operates only at part throttle, deleting EGR will not help or hurt WOT performance. You could take a very small hit in fuel economy but I doubt that you would notice the difference. Personally, I would just get the correct headers and avoid the hassle of deleting EGR.

 

At this point it would be more of a hassle for me to return the headers. Do you think that getting a new tune would help the Part-Throttle performance and economy? Also I'd hack the EGR tube off with a sawzall and then plug the tube going to the intake until I would get the tune then I would remove the EGR itself and plug the Intake hole.

 

you sell me the headers and you go buy more lol!! if you're going to go through the trouble of trying to cut that line with a hack saw it would be much easier in my mind to just unbolt it and put a cover plate in its place. that way if you do have to go back you can!

 

I have an intake that has the egr block off plate. I bought it from a member here.

there's is/was a big price differnce on egr/no egr headers from JBA for the 4.0 model. It had to do with dropping prices on their best selling headers- more like commodity pricing.

 

So the question comes down to does taking off the EGR effect performance at all on our trucks? Because the argument is so split, on some vehicles it causes knocking and pinging. On others it makes the vehicle run better and on some its doesn't do anything.

 

Not too worried about economy considering I hammer the pedal alot.

 

should of bought a ranger with no egr like i did.

 

Lol no.

 

This could be a concern if you delete the EGR without doing a custom calibration. The spark is advanced slightly when EGR is added - that's the source of the small fuel economy benefit. It could also possibly cause part-throttle detonation depending on how close to the edge the factory calibration is. It seems that 3.0's are generally more sensitive to this but a 4.0 might also get into det if conditions were right.

 

When I ordered mine I got headers w/o the EGR port. I just plugged the EGR, removed the exhaust tube, unplugged it from the harness, and plugged off the vacuum line. I have tunes from Rogue, and I don't have a C/E light unless I put it back to stock.

No loss in power that I noticed, but I've never put it on a dyno. Also since I did this when I installed the headers, the power/ throttle response from that helped.

Edit: Also, no pinging for me. Even when on the stock tune.

 

Well this makes the decision easier! Thanks. I'll delete the EGR, btw I currently have a Bama tune for all my mods minus the headers I'm gonna put on.

 

Adam,

I have been on Ranger Forums nearly since inception and on Generation-edge before that. There is one universal truth I have come to beleive in all that time.....

....ignore everyone else and do what rwenzing says.

 

So deleting the EGR will negate the gain from the headers? I'll need to wait like 20 days for everything to be said and done if I wanna exchange them :(

 

Why would it?

 

you are making this more difficult than it needs to be.. just delete the egr lol

 

Not what I said. I just mean that it was hard for me to tell if there was a loss of power because of adding headers. I see no reason you would lose power, other than it wouldn't be adding exhaust gas at part throttle anymore. I'm no expert, but I don't like exhaust going into my intake anyway. Seems like purely an emission control to me.

x2

 

Ok, I'll delete the EGR. haha rwenzig is right I know he is.... Over 7k posts lol. And your element with it off and no probs.

 

EGR is helps economy when your in a cruise situation. A lot of other hot rodders will delete the EGR because it can leak hot exhaust into the induction system.


With the 4.0 I doubt its an issue either way.

 

Thanks guys. How long do you think I'll need to install them? 3-4 hours?

 

That depends on tools, facilities and experience. I've heard claims of as little as 1.5 hours using a hoist all the way up to an entire weekend. To be on the safe side, I think you should plan on more time than 4 hours. I installed a set one Saturday taking my time. There will be rusted bolts to deal with and access to the header bolts is limited. IMO, the header install is far easier if you remove the plastic inner fenders first.

FYI - when you disconnect the steering shaft, do not turn the steering wheel or the clockspring may break later. I'd just lock the column with the key to prevent it from accidentally getting turned.

 

Thanks Rwenzing. I have a Stenhoj lift I can use, also I have lots of sockets 2 swivel ends box style wrenches is that all I should need? Or do I need anything kinda special?

 

If you need to pull the studs, they take a reverse Torx socket, E7 IIRC. They can also be pulled by the traditional "double nutting" technique. A good selection of metric universal sockets and wobble extensions would also help. Might need a propane torch to help loosen stubborn exhaust nuts/bolts. Otherwise, ordinary hand tools.

 

My truck was 3 days. Mostly due to stuck studs.

I needed a stud puller from harbor freight. Which worked great. It destroyed the studs in the process so if you use it have new bolts.

I also decide stage 8 hardware was a good idea. Turned out the heads didn't fit the headers well and needed some convincing and a tad of flange cutting.

 

I bought my JBAs used and they came without hardware, gaskets or instructions. I ended up reusing the original factory studs but had to remove some of them temporarily to squeeze the headers in place. Also used new Ford factory stainless gaskets because they were way cheaper than the JBA replacements.

The front wheels, splash shields and inner fenders were removed. This opened up a lot of area to work. Here's the installed header on the passenger side:





And here's the driver side installation. This side is something of a jigsaw puzzle. The steering shaft was temporarily disconnected and the dipstick tube was recontoured to fit the header flange. It helps to have a variety of universal sockets, wobble extensions, shorty wrenches and ratcheting box wrenches in addition to common sockets and wrenches. As mentioned before, an E7 reverse Torx socket is handy for setting the exhaust studs:




Before I reinstalled the inner fenders, I heat cycled the headers twice and retightened the flanges. I didn't feel like taking this back apart for any exhaust leaks! And it had never had any.

One other thing. I ground a small bevel on the passenger side collector flange to open up a little clearance to the oil filter adapter. It may have been possible to make it work without the bevel but I had heard that other people had trouble with contact or interference between these parts on the 4.0L Ranger. These were early JBAs and they may have fixed this by now - just something to watch out for. Also, I don't remember if the interference was a 4x4 only problem or if applied to all 4.0 SOHCs.