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4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech General discussion of 4.0L OHV and SOHC V6 Ford Ranger engines.

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  #1  
Old 10-23-2011
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Need power but no money

Hey guys, i love my truck i cant get rid of it.
the motors got 132,000 it has a dead cylinder cause its been shaking on cold start up.
its the 94 xlt 4.0 v6 ohv. I want to use it this winter for plowing. if anything i want to put in a 4.0 sohc long block or drop in a 5.0l but i dont know which one would fit in without moving stuff. i need heat and a/c and more horsepower its 4x4. can i use the trans in there now with a 5.0L or even a new sohc?
Can someone help me with what i should do with the motor and where to get it?

Last edited by RangerDangerfx494; 10-23-2011 at 04:01 PM. Reason: adding a question.
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  #2  
Old 10-23-2011
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you cannot use the current transmission.
If your going to use this as a plow truck, don't even waste your time putting a 5.0 in it. Just go find another 4.0 OHV. might want to find another transmission too, that one isn't gonna last with a plow.
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  #3  
Old 10-23-2011
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You ain't gonna marry the heads from an OHV 4.0 with a SOHC long block and create an engine. Have you tried to diagnose the reason for the dead cyl? Burnt valve, piston with a hole in it, injector issue, low compression, etc etc? I'll omit the obvious potential problems in expectation that you've already checked them.
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Old 10-24-2011
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Do you use lose coolant and cant find a leak?
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Old 10-24-2011
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Talk to us, John, your engine might not be beyond hope. I would not use a Ranger to push snow, if you are serious about that kind of work you are better off getting a 3/4 ton truck.
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  #6  
Old 10-24-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shovelmike View Post
I would not use a Ranger to push snow, if you are serious about that kind of work you are better off getting a 3/4 ton truck.
x2
I welded/fishplated 3 Ranger frames last Winter and we didn't even get our normal lake effect snow.
They're just not heavy enough.
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  #7  
Old 10-24-2011
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Originally Posted by shovelmike View Post
Talk to us, John, your engine might not be beyond hope. I would not use a Ranger to push snow, if you are serious about that kind of work you are better off getting a 3/4 ton truck.
ok fair enough but i still love the truck. It doesnt burn any antifreeze or oil that why its racking my brain. it over heats and high oil pressure. is my truck a 1/4 ton?
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  #8  
Old 10-24-2011
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The oil pressure gauge is fake have you installed an aftermarket one?

High oil pressure is desirable, as it means the engine still has tight tolerances.

The truck is a 1/4 ton.
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  #9  
Old 10-24-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RangerDangerfx494 View Post
is my truck a 1/4 ton?

The reference to 1/2, 3/4 and one ton are old fashioned references that "kind of" used to apply, but nearly nobody uses anymore. The concept is still around, in a general sense, to steer buyers into a general size category when shopping. To find your actual, rated payload, take the GVWR as indicated on the sticker inside the drivers door, and subtract the actual weight of the vehicle. The resulting number will be your actual rated payload capacity, which includes cargo, people, dogs, etc. If you look at an F-350 and do the math, you may be surprised to see how that old fashioned system no longer applies.

Your overheating is a curable problem, if you're relying on the gauge I would suggest using an infrared thermometer to determine the actual engine temp when it's hot. Point the unit at the thermostat housing and take a real temp reading. The oil pressure gauge is designed to read MOL mid range when there is about 7 and above PSI; they are noting more than a "cute" idiot light. Running at the rated oil pressure is desirable, things change if you install a different oil pump with different objectives. On an engine that as a history of normal oil pressure readings and then it develops high oil pressure, this puts up a red flag and is not desirable. This can indicate a blockage and restricted oil flow/lubrication. Never good.
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Old 10-24-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blhde View Post
The oil pressure gauge is fake have you installed an aftermarket one?
as with all the gauges. But yes thi sis a "good" sign.
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  #11  
Old 10-24-2011
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I had it quickly checked out today. The mechanic said it was just the head gasket! I can do this myself save Big bucks with that money i have a few other problems with the truck since im going to keep it in the family. The driver window does not work at all and the the passenger window is slow and goes up crooked.
Question:
1) once i fix the head gasket do i have to take the head to the machine shop and if i do that would it cost much more to get more hp. Ive got bigger tires so its a dog getting to speed.
2) theres a dead cylinder would fixing the head gasket fix that?
3) im not sure if the blower motor in 94's were just weak or if this one on its last leg.
Please respond and tell me what i needa do and how i can do it. im going to try and put up pic and stuff
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  #12  
Old 10-24-2011
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Originally Posted by Blhde View Post
Do you use lose coolant and cant find a leak?
No leaks that i see. doesnt burn oil or antifreeze. so this really confuses me :/
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  #13  
Old 10-24-2011
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If the cylinder is dead because the gasket is blown in the area of that cylinder in such a fashion that either compression is being lost or coolant is entering the combustion chamber, and all else is good- ie valves, rings, proper spark etc. then the dead cylinder situation should be taken care of.
The way to compensate for the big tires is to gear the truck lower, as in different ring gears and pinion's in the differentials....this amounts to big expense, the sane remedy is to put normal size tires back on the truck.
Blower motors are fairly cheap, even cheaper at the salvage yard, and easy to change.
Window motors, and/ or regulator change is not too bad of a job, salvage yard is best for those too if they stand behind them.
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  #14  
Old 10-24-2011
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If you take the head off put a new one in its place.
https://www.alabamacylinderhead.com/

Also the exhuast manifold may be a PITA to get off so take it off with the head.
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  #15  
Old 10-24-2011
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what kind of ring and pinion should i get? how would i know what size i have in there now?
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  #16  
Old 10-25-2011
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get under the truck and write down the numbers and letters on the tage sticking off one or two of the bolts on the pumpkin. OR if your door jams are readable the sticker should say too.

and blower motors arent known to go bad all that often its more than likely the resistor. Mine only works on full blast.
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  #17  
Old 10-25-2011
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http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Axles.html according to ranger station youre sitting on a 8.8 axle, more than likely limited slip being that youre 4x4, and 3.73/(4.10 seems to be what you are not positive though)/or 4.56 gearing. your tag/door jam sticker will determine this.
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  #18  
Old 10-25-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RangerDangerfx494 View Post
I had it quickly checked out today. The mechanic said it was just the head gasket! I can do this myself save Big bucks with that money i have a few other problems with the truck since im going to keep it in the family. The driver window does not work at all and the the passenger window is slow and goes up crooked.
Question:
1) once i fix the head gasket do i have to take the head to the machine shop and if i do that would it cost much more to get more hp. Ive got bigger tires so its a dog getting to speed.

The heads only need a visit to a machine shop if they're warped or if the valve seating (sealing) is weak, and/or if they need to have the valve seats reground and possibly a few new valves installed. There's also the valve guides to consider. With the head off and a clean mating surface (head to block), you can determine if they need to be milled with a straight edge. As for the valve seats, a quick and dirty way to check for a good seal is to pour some gas into the port and see if it leaks on the other side of the valve. Not a perfect method, but it's a quick way to flag an obvious leaky valve. You may also have worn valve guides, to determine this you would need to mic them. Any past oil consumption could be an indication of worn valve guides. Not that it couldn't be rings, but that can be answered by doing a compression test before you tear into this engine. Said compression test would also flag a poorly sealing or burnt valve.

As for HP, if you're thinking about milling the heads to raise the compression, you won't be able to shave enough material from the head to be of any significant compression benefit. The reason for this is, when you shave off material from the head, you are also pulling the fastener holes used to mount the intake closer to the block. This will alter the geometry, and if you shave off enough head material to make a compression difference, you won't be able to install the lower intake mounting bolts, the ones common to (C/T) the heads and the intake.]


2) theres a dead cylinder would fixing the head gasket fix that?

If it's proven that a small amount of coolant is entering the chamber, then yes, a head gasket and making sure the head and block mating surfaces are flat should be the fix. A radiator pressure test would be a good way to check for this. A failed head gasket can cause this leak and replacement is obviously the solution. Also, don't be expecting warped heads or the deck on the block to be other than flat, this usually only happens when it's been severely overheated in the past. I've replace many a head gasket with the gasket being the only problem. You want to check for flat surface before reassembling as a matter of good service practice, to make sure the problem won't come back and to make sure your repair is a good and lasting one. I'd venture to guess that you don't have to take the heads to a shop unless you want to freshen up the upper end. BTW, valves that seat poorly rob horsepower.

I suppose you could have a major leak in a head gasket, if the leak is external you should hear that when it's running. If it's internal, and the leak leads to the cooling system, you'll probably have a dead cyl on a cold engine due to a damp spark plug.


3) im not sure if the blower motor in 94's were just weak or if this one on its last leg.
Please respond and tell me what i needa do and how i can do it. im going to try and put up pic and stuff.

I bought a 94 Ranger new, the blower worked great in weather conditions ranging from +105*F down to -25*F. Yours should do the same. If it's not working in all of the settings, that would suggest a bad resistor pack; a check with an ohmmeter will verify this without removal. Of course, something like a bad fan switch is possible. Less likely is crud like leaves plugging the A/C evap (all incoming air flows over this) since the air intake holes are small and should block them. There's a very small chance that the cables on the controls are messed up or for some weird reason, the blend doors aren't operating properly; this is an easy check.
Answers in bold text.

Last edited by CowboyBilly9Mile; 10-25-2011 at 01:43 PM.
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  #19  
Old 10-25-2011
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The stock heads are known for cracking, and may not survive a machining attempt. Alabama cylinder heads sells new heads for 250 with new valves and springs. It is more cost effective to buy a new than have the original machined.
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  #20  
Old 11-09-2011
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"according to ranger station youre sitting on a 8.8 axle, more than likely limited slip being that youre 4x4, and 3.73/(4.10 seems to be what you are not positive though)/or 4.56 gearing. your tag/door jam sticker will determine"

I just got the engine running and now onto the drivetrain. The link you sent before was very important. Pretty much says i should put in a whole ford explorer rear axle. Do i also put in a the transfer case for the 4x4 from the explorer. Another question how to i raise the front end. When i bought it there was a plow so i think all that weight made the front end sag...
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