So today I changed my oil and put some new brake pads on. Man did I need new pads, the old ones were about down to the metal! I was suprised how easy it was to replace the pads.

 

Didnt turn or replace the rotors?

 

most likely not.. how about the caliper pins? pads move freely in the cradles?

pull off the rear brakes and check the wheel cylinders, and adjusters and shoes too?

 

I did my front pads today as well today. Checked the runout and thickness on the rotors, it's fine, scuffed up the rotors some and am running it.

I do need to pull the rears and check 'em out. Being drums i'm sure they are fine, hardly broken in at 48k lol

 

highly doubt that being there ranger drums i will almost bet that the wheel cylinders are froze or leaking.. most they usually last is about 30k... it seems like there "fine" because most the time they are NOT moving the shoes thus not wearing..

never pulled apart a ranger rear drums and there wasnt a problem..

 

X2. Im with zack, my ranger actually lasted 45k miles, and it was locking up, pulled the drums...

Wheel cylinders were leaking, and frozen, Shoes fell right off the backing, drums were rusted up from never touching the shoes...

I just think its funny when people pad slap, then wonder why their brakes pulsate like hell in 1000 miles... or why the brake pads only last 20k miles, because they hammered them into the hardware...

 

Dang, ford does have a crappy drum setup. Used to my 1972 drum brakes that still functioned fine when i got my car.

My front brakes will function fine, calipers are clean and everything lubricated well. i'm not one to replace a rotor or turn it if its unecessary. I mic'd and read the run-out on the rotor. Nothing but a scuff and new pads is necessary in my book. (if you were referring to me)

 

a nice clean cut on the rotors is far better then "scuff" sorry. helps seat the new pads better with new metal. its not taking a large amount off if there not warped

 

Every mechanic's got an opinion, nothin wrong with that. I wouldn't give a customer their car back without turning/new rotors. But for my own vehicle, it suits me fine. Time taking repacking/setting the front bearings, taking my car with the rotors over to a place to get turned (hopefully by a competent tech, that knows what they are doing), and resetting everything is a little much for the time I have to mess with it. We don't turn/cut rotors at BMW, just replace with new, otherwise I'd do it myself...so it'll do for now.

 

agree'ed.. rather just do it right the first time.. didnt clean cut my rotors before i put it back together now i have to pull it all back apart the shop was closed when i needed it done sadly..

oh and on the drums i have rebuild ranger drums when there was shoot about 28k i think the truck only had on it.. and they where already junk

 

Yea with a hurricane coming within a day or two, I didn't want to risk anything going astray with having a second person cutting/messing with the rotors. If there becomes an issue, I won't have an issue taking it apart and going through it after the storm passes. I appreciate your opinion


I will pull my rears and take a look at them tomorrow. Any way to tell if one is sticking? Since I have a limited slip running the truck up to speed and applying the brakes will stop both if one is just working. Basically any advice for checking the rear shoe operation? Thats pretty pathetic for rear drum life!

 

take the drum off, peel back the seal on the cylinders and look for fluid/rust/crap and also if the drums are all rusty on the inside like they arnt touching any thing. also check the adjuster on the bottom and see if its froze up

 

when you push in on the front shoe it should move the front piston in and the rear piston out on the wheel cylinder and vise versa, if it doesnt they should be replaced

 

Thanks for the heads up on Fords crappy rear drums. Looks to me I had one shoe applying, hardly. So I will be ordering some new wheel cylinders and shoes asap!

Anyone know which brakes my truck would have, i forgot to check. 9" or 10"?

 

you all are hard on brakes

im at 73 k and still ok

 

should be the 10" if your 4.10's came stock..

Dont hold me to it tho... measure before you order

 

4.10s are factory along with the 8.8. The measurement is of the inside of the drum i assume? The braking surface