Oil, I need help
 

I had my oil changed the other day and the guy put in 5w20.

I have a 2001 ford ranger v6 sohc 4.0

The book say to use 5w30, but the guy said that everyone is using 5w20?

will i be ok or should I have the oil changed back to 5w30

I have no idea what the difference is


Thanks

You should be fine using the 5w20 in your truck for now. Most new ford vehicles actually call for 5w20 like the new exploders and f-150's. I used to work with a city fleet and sometimes I'd help the oil pit guy. The two numbers only mean that thats what the viscosity of the oil is at certain temps. It'll be easier for wikipedia to explain:

The SAE designation for multi-grade oils includes two grade numbers; for example, 10W-30 designates a common multi-grade oil. Historically, the first number associated with the W (again 'W' is for Winter, not Weight) is not rated at any single temperature. The "10W" means that this oil can be pumped by your engine as well as a single-grade SAE 10 oil can be pumped. "5W" can be pumped at a lower temperature than "10W" and "0W" can be pumped at a lower temperature than "5W". The second number, 30, means that the viscosity of this multi-grade oil at 100°C (212°F) operating temperature corresponds to the viscosity of a single-grade 30 oil at same temperature. The governing SAE standard is called SAE J300. This "classic" method of defining the "W" rating has since been replaced with a more technical test where a "cold crank simulator" is used at increasingly lowered temps. A 0W oil is tested at -35°C, a 5W at -30°C and a 10W is tested at -25°C. The real-world ability of an oil to crank in the cold is diminished soon after put into service. The motor oil grade and viscosity to be used in a given vehicle is specified by the manufacturer of the vehicle (although some modern European cars now make no viscosity requirement), but can vary from country to country when climatic or mpg constraints come into play.

Might be a bit confusing but you'll be fine. Just use 5w30 next time you change your oil, If someone changed your oil for you at a shop and they said that 5w20 would be fine. I'd make sure they use what the manufacture recommends or go to a different shop

It will be fine. Mine calls for 5w30 and I had a couple free oil changes at the dealer and they used 5w20 and I had no problem.

I use 5w20, you'll survive

i would go back to 5w-30 the SOHC engine was not one of the engines that ford said its ok to use 5w-20...read this

http://www.rangerpowersports.com/for...d.php?t=235735

rubydist on rps knows his stuff about the 4.0 sohc engine.

meh any oils better then no oil man, i ran 0w-40 in my car for awhile, tell you she started reving faster

If you were in the south I'd suggest switching back. But since your in the north and cooler weather is coming soon. I think you'll be ok.

I am however a big proponent of more viscous oils. Yes it'll cost you slightly in mpg (0.5 or so). But a good 10w-30 oil prevents a lot of piston skirt wear on startup. And the more mileage the motor has on it the more important it is. Shoot when a motor has a fair amount of piston slap going on I switch to stright 30w.

Rich

I actually noticed that my 4.7L in my jeep says to run 10w-30 in temps above 0*F. I actually like the way it runs with the 10w- rather than the 5w- I usually run...

You truck calls for 5w30. Go back and get another free oil change - and demand it be free, and new filter too.

If you asked for 5w20, fine, but you didn't, so they should have put what your engine calls for, not what is the cool thing to run.

Its about principles.

Get it changed, that engine was not back-spec'd to a 20wt oil - it's too thin

Only with GM:

http://pistonslap.com/

Bob Bob Bob.. you just won't quite will ya. :squint:

Anytime you have forged pistons and a low viscosity oil you will have piston slap. My 5.4L *ford* as produced from the factory had audible piston slap starting at 1000miles. It's normal and it's simple science of how the grain structure in a piston effects it's growth with heat.

And I'll add this too. All engines have piston slap. You just can't hear it for the most part. The OEMs do little things to disguise it. Like I know for a fact that Ford machines the mod motor pistons in a not perfectly round shape. They machine it so that when it's up to temp it *is* perfectly round. They also add or remove material in the block to change the frequency so as to make it less audible to the customer.

Give it a rest..

Rich :smoker:

Rich you never did answer my post regarding your "science" in getting around
the problems of the Cadillac Northstar!!! In this case, "popular perception"
is correct!!!:biggrin:

The link I posted explains GM's piston slap!!! Just curious, what engines did you have to switch to straight 30W when piston slap developed?
If piston slap developed in the life of the engine, there was significant wear, which is expected from the abuse you give an engine!

Bob I have no idea what your talking about. What question?

As far as wear. I agree. But it's not because of how I operate them. You assume so many things in your thoughts.. it's scary.

Rich :cop: