Removing oil filter 2002 Edge 4.0 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech General discussion of 4.0L OHV and SOHC V6 Ford Ranger engines.

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  #1  
Old 11-23-2007
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Removing oil filter 2002 Edge 4.0

Hi all,
This afternoon I was looking into changing the oil in my new to me Ranger for the first time. I can see the filter but was wondering how you guys get at it? Can you get to it from just underneath or do you remove the passeger tire and splash shield? Any help appreciated as I have always done my own oil changes.
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  #2  
Old 11-23-2007
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you can reach it from under the truck.....
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  #3  
Old 11-23-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
you can reach it from under the truck.....
Sometimes you need one of the filter tools to get it off though.
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  #4  
Old 11-23-2007
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i was able to do from the top once i loose it from the bottom
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  #5  
Old 11-23-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trigger01
Sometimes you need one of the filter tools to get it off though.

Dont even waste your time with one of those "filter sockets". Get a big channel locks and crunch it in and twist. If a dealer or jiffy lube type place did it, Its gonna be on there really really tight, and those sockets wont work. I use the fram filters with the grit on the top so i can get them really tight by hand, and yet still get them off.
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  #6  
Old 11-23-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malydeen
Dont even waste your time with one of those "filter sockets". Get a big channel locks and crunch it in and twist. If a dealer or jiffy lube type place did it, Its gonna be on there really really tight, and those sockets wont work. I use the fram filters with the grit on the top so i can get them really tight by hand, and yet still get them off.
Channel locks are a life saver when it comes to really tight oil filters.
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  #7  
Old 11-23-2007
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yea.....use all the comments above mine. Those plier claw filter removers, big set of channel locks, those crappy socket things. They all work. For stuck filters, i use either those plier claw things, or I stab a phillips screwdriver through the filter and get it out.

when you put a new filter in it, just spend the extra dough, andget a K&N. They come with a nut welded to the bottom of the filter. Makes removal next time really easy. 1" socket on those. The filters only need to be 1/4 turn past where the rubber gasket meets the block. Hand tightend. Only sinched down. I hate those oil can henry/jiffy lube type places.
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  #8  
Old 11-23-2007
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fram filters are garbage, don't waste your money if you really love your truck.
do a search on it.
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  #9  
Old 11-24-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5speedin2.3
fram filters are garbage, don't waste your money if you really love your truck.
do a search on it.
You sir can kiss my ***. I really dont care because I dont abuse my truck and oil gets changed every 1500ish miles. And over the past 20 years we have never had a problem using them on a vehicle, because there cheap doesnt mean there crap.

I was going to mention the screw driver trick, but I had a feeling that some one would get there panties in a bunch and talk about how horrible that is so I didnt.

As for jiffylube they tighten them really really tight so they make sure they dont leak, because if they leak they can be liable for any damager to the engine.
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  #10  
Old 11-24-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malydeen
You sir can kiss my ***. I really dont care because I dont abuse my truck and oil gets changed every 1500ish miles. And over the past 20 years we have never had a problem using them on a vehicle, because there cheap doesnt mean there crap.

I was going to mention the screw driver trick, but I had a feeling that some one would get there panties in a bunch and talk about how horrible that is so I didnt.

As for jiffylube they tighten them really really tight so they make sure they dont leak, because if they leak they can be liable for any damager to the engine.
i was just stating a fact, no need to get pissy with me.
im sorry but do some research, fram oil filters are garbage.
theres no need to change your oil every 1500 miles, what a waste.

im sure alot of members on the forums will back me up.


motorcraft filters and oil every 4000miles, ive never had a problem.
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  #11  
Old 11-24-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malydeen
You sir can kiss my ***. I really dont care because I dont abuse my truck and oil gets changed every 1500ish miles. And over the past 20 years we have never had a problem using them on a vehicle, because there cheap doesnt mean there crap.
Not to drag this OT too much.. but you've obviously never lost a motor because of one. Fram filters are inferior to OEM specs & to other aftermarket offerings. They are inferior in burst psi, in quality of manufacturing, and quality of filtration.

Motorcraft, pure one, wix, duesch (sp?) are all good in my *first hand experience in rebulding engines*.

Regards, Rich
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  #12  
Old 11-24-2007
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I have always used Napa Gold filters (Made by Wix) and Mobil 1. If you really want to read about oil and filters go to www.bobistheoilguy.com - you would be amazed at the info there. Believe me after finding that site, I quit using Fram filters! I have a nice pair of channel lock pliers courtesy of Lowes. They delivered a washing machine and about six months later I moved and when disconnecting the washer I found this pair of channel lock pliers they used when they hooked it up. Only thing I used when I changed the oil on my Blazer before I traded it on my Edge. Also use them to take filter of my wife's Corolla.

Thanks for all the replies!!
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  #13  
Old 11-25-2007
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Stick with the Motorcraft FL 820s filter.
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  #14  
Old 11-25-2007
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I have always used Fram Tough gaurd TG2 Filters with the grip. Ive had 3 vehicles and used it in all of them and have never had a problem. We also used them in about 5 other vehicles. Plus its easy to reach your hand up and turn it off as long as you dont crank it on there. Plus trying to get a filter wrench on that size filter trying to get it tight for grip and burning the crap outta your hands off the exhaust is so not cool.
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  #15  
Old 11-25-2007
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buy some matco oil filter wrenches then.
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  #16  
Old 11-25-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rangerGT
i was able to do from the top once i loose it from the bottom
u must have the 3.0L and that is the easiest way to do thoes.
the 4.0's you cant do that.
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  #17  
Old 11-25-2007
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Those are the wrenches im talkin about.
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  #18  
Old 11-25-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sullys_ranger
I have always used Fram Tough gaurd TG2 Filters with the grip. Ive had 3 vehicles and used it in all of them and have never had a problem. We also used them in about 5 other vehicles. Plus its easy to reach your hand up and turn it off as long as you dont crank it on there. Plus trying to get a filter wrench on that size filter trying to get it tight for grip and burning the crap outta your hands off the exhaust is so not cool.
Frams are one of the worst filters for your vehicles. stick with motorcraft filters.
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  #19  
Old 11-25-2007
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i got mine from mac, they are pretty good.
cornwell and mac make a claw that works pretty sweet for the 4.0L
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  #20  
Old 11-25-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rangererv
i got mine from mac, they are pretty good.
cornwell and mac make a claw that works pretty sweet for the 4.0L
yeah thats what my dad uses at his work, its nice, but i don't have to use anything when i change mine.
gotta love where the filter is on the 2.3 Lima.
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  #21  
Old 11-25-2007
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^^ ha ya the 2.3L are so easy. 4.0l are not bad u just soak ur arm in oil unless ur in a shop u can spin it and run outta the way, who cares where it lands.
the 3.0L are just a pain in the *** though. i hate them.
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  #22  
Old 11-26-2007
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I use a cap style wrench and a ratchet
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  #23  
Old 11-26-2007
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I use my hand and sometimes a screw driver.
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  #24  
Old 12-01-2007
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Can always spend the money and get one of these.

http://www.gopurepower.com/store/ite...=8400&dia=true
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  #25  
Old 12-01-2007
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Holly crap, they are 200 bucks each, no thanks...
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