I'm trying to remove my old EGR Valve off of my 95 Ford Ranger and having a heck of a time getting it loose. The big nut will not budge my EGR Valve is on the driver's side. I have sprayed it heavily with PB Blaster and I'm tapping a crescent wrench with a sledge hammer to no avail. I think I can get the two smaller bolts out no problem, but this big one is a b*tch. It has to be turned counter clockwise I'm pretty sure, but it isn't moving either direction period. Rust!

 

get rid of the adjustable wrench and get a real wrench.

 

I did that and I couldn't get it in there. lol. Finally, got her broke loose with a crescent and sledge hammer. Fun fun. Still runs a little rough next step catalytic converter.

 

Are you shooting in the dark or actually trouble shooting the issue.

 

have CEL on and had it checked. said that two cylinders weren't firing and said the egr was most likely bad. i don't know for sure it squeals occasionally and loses power? i'm at a loss. still doing the stalling and occasional squealing. also, the abs light is on. acts like its choking.

 

clean inside the port where the EGR valve resides

they usually don`t fail , they just get clogged up with a-lot of carbon build-up

 

clean with what and toward the cab or toward the throttle body or both?

 

a small propane torch would have helped. or an oxy acetylene one if you couldve scratched it.

 

clean in around the intake manifold where the EGR bolts to

a small screwdriver will work

use a vacuum as well

 

thanks i'll give it a try

 

Thinking of using a shotgun cleaning brush. Any thoughts about that? It just may work.

 

the carbon will be en crusted to the metal

only a sharp object will be able to dis-lodge it

 

okay got it. now just to clarify on that area to clean its the horizontal tube heading toward the cab of the vehicle right? where it bolts down goes up at a 90 degree bend toward the throttle body so there wouldnt be much you could clean here. i guess i could get both.

 

remove the tube and do a blow test
( just remember not to inhale )

it will determine how much flow is getting through

 

Heres what I'm looking at just to clarify things. Yours might be different than mine. I scraped the inside of both ports last night, but I didn't take any tubes off. It was running better last night and seemed to only get sluggish occasionally. The pics are after removing the egr valve.

 

check that the valve in the EGR valve moves freely

 

So cheese man your talking about cleaning the tube at the far right side of pic 3 where it hooks down and is bolted on right?

 

that`s correct

make sure you clean it thoroughly

your fuel economy relies on it

the engine computer calculates how much exhaust gas is being re-circulated into the intake stream
and then adjusts the amount of fuel it injects into the combustion chamber

 

Okay my truck ran better today, but this afternoon I noticed that the little screw with a piece of metal attached to it on the outside of the valve fell off. I didn't have this on my original valve, but the guy at Advanced Auto said that it was the right one. Well, I noticed I'm getting awful gas mileage at what in essence is a threaded hole in the side of the valve. I called and talked to Advanced Auto and this other guy said that he seen a different part that was just one piece and that it will be there in the morning. Sheeesh I'm having fun with this thing. These are just a few things ya'll have to think about if you have to do the same thing. Love being the guinea pig. lol.

 

if you got the EGR valve off, just replace it. it makes it a lot easier to see if that was truly the problem or not.

 

Yeah, I did get it off and I replaced it. I'm pretty sure this was my problem because the truck is running better. The only thing is this new part had some kind of little piece of metal secured with an allen head screw. Well they are gone now and my truck is running okay, but it sure is eating the gas. I think in essence there is just a hole in the side of this new valve now with the screw gone. I hope the new one that they get in tomorrow morning will fix everything. Keeping my fingers crossed.

 

Got that tube off. After poking a screwdriver in the ports I've sprayed PB Blaster inside it and have it soaking with the PB Blaster in it. Its like a candy cane that I have propped up and you can see the fluid inside it. That should give the inside of that a cleaning. Now I guess I need to try to chip inside the manifold where the hook connects under the cab.

 

Question to anybody out there. I have been poking a small screwdriver in the port where my EGR tube connects to the manifold. After that I have been running a vaccuum hose to suck out the material. I can feel some of it coming out through the hose. Is it okay to spray a carb cleaner or something else down this hole at this time??? I just want to make sure I get this sucker good and clean now that it's off of there. I can feel the screwdriver scrape the wall of the opening, but I really don't feel much resistance after I stuff if up inside the hole.

 

Okay it's pretty late so I probably won't get a reply. The two hoses off the top of the EGR tube are connected to an aluminum? rectangle with a plug in. I've removed the hoses and washed them out and took a piece of wire and jammed it up into the two ports on the rectangle. There is obvious build up here. I also sprayed throttle body cleaner in these ports it this okay? I hope so. Also, can I spray throttle body cleaner or carb cleaner into the port where the EGR tube connects to the manifold. Thanks and sorry about asking all of these dumb questions. lol. Just hope I can help someone else in the same predicament as myself.

 

carb cleaner will work

let it soak in over night

you might want to find out how much it would cost to get the injectors power flushed

there is probably 1 or 2 injectors sticking in the open position