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  #51  
Old 03-08-2009
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Originally Posted by Jeromeo View Post
Here you go buddy. Straight from the source "The true milestone came in 1972 when AMSOIL became the first synthetic motor oil in the world to meet American Petroleum Institute criteria"
This came right off of amsoil's website.


Straight from the horse's WHAT?????

Just another example how Scamsoil LIES!!!!!!!!

1972 is a long ways from 1997, according to the API:




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  #52  
Old 03-08-2009
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Straight from the horse's WHAT?????

Just another example how Scamsoil LIES
Awesome but you still haven't answered my question. What do you think is the best synthetic?
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  #53  
Old 03-08-2009
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Originally Posted by Jeromeo View Post
So what do you think is the best synthetic?
Ok, you asked, I'll tell you. I run Shell Rotella 15W40 in my Mercedes diesel,
Castrol GTX (dino) in my gasoline vehicles. The main reason for changing oil
today is due to it getting contaminated & dirty. The rate at which it gets contaminated & dirty has nothing to do with dino or synthetic, so I would rather run a API certified dino oil, and change it regularly.

However, I do belive that synthetic oils can withstand higher temps than dino oils, but to take advantage of this you would have to break something to
over heat your engine. But, by this time, other engine components will fail, like piston rings.

I think you will be ok running any oil product (dino or synthetic) that is API certified......bottom line, stay away from Scamsoil, or any other MLM company
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  #54  
Old 03-08-2009
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I agree about changing the oil regularly. I use the Amsoil XL in my trucks. Like you said, they are API certified. I wouldn't run the non-certified stuff in my truck because quite frankly, it's too expensive. I change my oil regardless if it's synthetic or conventional, Amsoil or not, at 4000-5000 kms (roughly every 2500-3000 miles). I don't believe in extended life motor oils. I like synthetic and I get the XL oil shipped to my door for cheaper than any other synthetics I can buy at wal-mart. But prices have increased and I may be switching back to Mobil-1 or Castrol if they continue to do so.
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  #55  
Old 03-08-2009
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Originally Posted by Jeromeo View Post
I agree about changing the oil regularly. I use the Amsoil XL in my trucks. Like you said, they are API certified. I wouldn't run the non-certified stuff in my truck because quite frankly, it's too expensive. I change my oil regardless if it's synthetic or conventional, Amsoil or not, at 4000-5000 kms (roughly every 2500-3000 miles). I don't believe in extended life motor oils. I like synthetic and I get the XL oil shipped to my door for cheaper than any other synthetics I can buy at wal-mart. But prices have increased and I may be switching back to Mobil-1 or Castrol if they continue to do so.

I'm glad to hear you weren't totally sucked into the Scamsoil "cult"!!!
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  #56  
Old 03-08-2009
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So changing oil is more based on mileage (as this is the only way for it to get dirty), more so on time?
I drive *maybe* 1000miles during the school year, and like 3000miles during the summer. So i think its fine for me..although i've never let it hit near the 25000mile mark.
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  #57  
Old 03-08-2009
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Originally Posted by Takeda View Post
I'm glad to hear you weren't totally sucked into the Scamsoil "cult"!!!
Haha No. I definitely don't consider it to be superior. I also don't think it's any worse (XL that is) than the other synthetics.


Dangerranger, I change every 2500-3000 miles or every 3-4 months. I just get paranoid having old oil in there.
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  #58  
Old 03-08-2009
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royal purple
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  #59  
Old 03-08-2009
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Originally Posted by Takeda View Post
I think you answered your question in your thread here:

https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ght=oil+filter

Excessive wear from aftermarket parts and Scamsoil!!!
Not really. I's been doing that long before I used Amsoil because its a sh!tty Ford.

I'm still using Amsoil and there are people still out there still using it.

Last edited by whippersnapper02; 03-08-2009 at 07:03 PM.
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  #60  
Old 03-08-2009
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Back to topic: I use Amsoil and have no problems with oil sludge. I know a lot of people that use it with no problems. I will continue using it and I'm sure other people will. In the end you will have nothing but your web links that mean nothing to me. Not because I don't understand them but because I don't care and have proof outside my house that there are no problems with Amsoil.

Last edited by whippersnapper02; 03-08-2009 at 07:36 PM.
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  #61  
Old 03-08-2009
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Im not trying to pick a fight, But, Takeda(correct me if im wrong) weren't you the person stating crap in that thread about horse power?
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  #62  
Old 03-08-2009
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Originally Posted by Spirochets View Post
Im not trying to pick a fight, But, Takeda(correct me if im wrong) weren't you the person stating crap in that thread about horse power?

Nope, that was Rich that thought horsepower was like Santa Claus......
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  #63  
Old 03-08-2009
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Just asking
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  #64  
Old 03-09-2009
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I've used Mobil 1 since the very first oil change with no problems at all, and I always notice an increase in power and mileage (however slight it may be) after a change. For my last change I used the 15,000 mile stuff, and while it did come out pretty dirty, it still had a small amount of gold to the color. I've also heard nothing but good things about Amsoil. I would use it if they had it at Walmart for 30 bucks a jug.

Christian, it sounds like the rattling sound is just a result of oil needing to make it's way through the engine, but I don't see how the particular brand of oil could be making any difference. As for the aftermarket parts, I doubt that your traction bars, slotted rotors, or catback exhaust are making your oil pressure drop.......

Bob, something I noticed from the screenshot of the API website you posted....it states that AMSOIL has been MARKETING their oil with the API seal since 1997, but it doesn't say that's when they received their license. Is it possible that they've been licensed since 1972 but only started marketing their oil with the seal since 1997?
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  #65  
Old 03-09-2009
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I used motorcraft 5w-30 until 20k miles. Had blackstone analize it at the 20k mark too. Thier report came back that all was fine except the oil was a bit light in viscosity. They recommended I try running it to 6500 miles.

Since then I have started spraying nitrous. This puts more pressure on the rod bearings and piston skirts. So I've been running 10w-30 mobil one since. (50k miles now)

This last oil change I'm trying to run the oil longer. I changed it at 40k and then at 45k I changed *only* the filter.. topped off the oil level accordingly.
So... here in about 2-3 weeks it'll have 10k on it. I'm going to take a sample and send it to blackstone as well.
I'm really curious what 10k on mobil one looks like. Oh and btw, the oil is much blacker than I ever let it get. IMO the oil might be "ok".. but I just don't ever like to see oils get this dirty.

Rich
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  #66  
Old 03-09-2009
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There is a website "bobistheoilguy.com" that has technical information and oil analyses to determine which oil is best. Anyone who wants to persue the question should check it out!
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  #67  
Old 03-09-2009
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well is it true what they say about amsoil... that once you use it you can switch to another kind?

thats the myth/rumor thats been going around here for awhile
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  #68  
Old 03-09-2009
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Originally Posted by TurdFX4 View Post
well is it true what they say about amsoil... that once you use it you can switch to another kind?

thats the myth/rumor thats been going around here for awhile
I think its a myth created by die hard royal purple fans or other people with nothing better to do with their lives.
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  #69  
Old 03-09-2009
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I think its a myth created by die hard royal purple fans or other people with nothing better to do with their lives.
thats what i figured
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  #70  
Old 03-09-2009
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i use Mobile 1 5w-30...
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  #71  
Old 03-09-2009
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mobil 1
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  #72  
Old 03-09-2009
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I just did my switch to Mobil 1 5W - 30. So far... I can't say I can tel a difference between the Motorcraft synthetic blend., other than the fact I spent nearly $10 more on this Mobil 1 :(
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  #73  
Old 03-09-2009
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Regular Dino oil in the motor, I change it every 6-7000 km, because my commute is all highway. So it works out that I change it every 5000-6000 miles. In my diffs and t case, I run royal purple, just cause I can get it cheap through work, and I regularily abuse these parts every weekend.

The thing I don't like about synth, it that even though they say you can push it to 10000 miles, isn't the filter only designed for 5000? And as well, synthetic oil will get dirty just as fast as conventional oil, it just will not degrade as quickly. If I was pushing 500+ horses and running really high engine temps in my truck, then I would for sure be running it. But I am not, it is a measly 160 hp, and temps in BC do not get above 35* celcius(90-95 F) .

Synthetic has its place, and I can see someone like Rich, who is constantly spraying, to benifit from this, but not the average Joe who commuting bck and forth to work. At work we regualrily see big touring bikes, even sport bikes with 100,000+ km on them. We even had a 98 Gold Wing with 475,000 kms on it. These owner has only put conventional oil in it ever since it was new. These are high perfomance machines, and they have not benifited from full synth.

I am not saying don't run it, in the end it is your truck. Just take all of what the oil companies are advertising with a grain of salt. They are in it to make money, and if they can sell you on a $15 jug of oil instead of a $5 one, they will.
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  #74  
Old 03-09-2009
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Originally Posted by chainfire View Post
Regular Dino oil in the motor, I change it every 6-7000 km, because my commute is all highway. So it works out that I change it every 5000-6000 miles. In my diffs and t case, I run royal purple, just cause I can get it cheap through work, and I regularily abuse these parts every weekend.

The thing I don't like about synth, it that even though they say you can push it to 10000 miles, isn't the filter only designed for 5000? And as well, synthetic oil will get dirty just as fast as conventional oil, it just will not degrade as quickly. If I was pushing 500+ horses and running really high engine temps in my truck, then I would for sure be running it. But I am not, it is a measly 160 hp, and temps in BC do not get above 35* celcius(90-95 F) .

Synthetic has its place, and I can see someone like Rich, who is constantly spraying, to benifit from this, but not the average Joe who commuting bck and forth to work. At work we regualrily see big touring bikes, even sport bikes with 100,000+ km on them. We even had a 98 Gold Wing with 475,000 kms on it. These owner has only put conventional oil in it ever since it was new. These are high perfomance machines, and they have not benifited from full synth.

I am not saying don't run it, in the end it is your truck. Just take all of what the oil companies are advertising with a grain of salt. They are in it to make money, and if they can sell you on a $15 jug of oil instead of a $5 one, they will.

Not too sure how cold it gets in Mission but here in Fort McMurray it gets to -50 celsius without windchill. It was -35 celsius this morning and -45 with the wind chill. Since I switched to synthetic a few years back my cold winter starting has changed dramatically for the better. The fact that synthetic, in general, has a colder pour point means it's easier to start a car in the dead of a "real" winter. So that's why I skip the $5 jug at the store. It's a night and day difference.
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  #75  
Old 03-09-2009
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Fair enough, I am not trying to persuade anyone to stop using it, just stating what I have seen. I work at a motorcycle shop, so we rarely have to factor cold in when recomending oil.

What weight oil are you putting in? 0w-30 or something along those lines?
I live near the coast, right by Vancouver so the coldest it regualrily gets is 0* maybe -5*
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