Trans Problems
hey so i have an 06 ranger that has some issues, it's throwing codes p1000, p0731, p0733, p0734, p0735 and p1270, all trans codes for incorrect gearing ratios besides the p1000 and p1270. In drive none of the gears work besides starting off but you have to rev to the moon to go anywhere. if you shift it manually 1st and 2nd work perfectly fine. Reverse barely works unless you rev it high but still barely moves as if the clutch is halfway engaged still. Now i changed battery terminals and a new battery a few days ago and it was fine didn't notice anything, then the next day i changed the alternator out but right before that it was acting up not wanting to move so i put it in park and then it went so i figured it was just cold but that doesn't seem to be the case. I've heard that trans issues like this can happen from disconnecting the battery, was just curious if i should start with something like that or any pointers on what to do.
Welcome to the forum
P1000 just means you disconnected the battery so computer is running self tests of emissions systems
P1270 means excessive RPMs in gear, which fits with the transmission codes
And no, disconnecting battery won't effect transmission in any way
Reads like your one-way clutch has failed, tell tail is no/slow movement in D(or R) but does move in 1st, also means torque converter is not the issue
Requires a full rebuild to repair
Not a common failure but a known failure on all automatics, not a Ford or Ranger thing, all automatics use sprags(one-way clutches)
Drain the fluid and check it, and the filter, for metal bits, one-way clutch failure would cause metal bits to show up
Failed sprag(one-way clutch) seen here: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums...181-jpg.85555/
There is no warning sign to speak of, one day it works, the next day it doesn't
No connection to charging system, simply a coincidence
No electrical solenoids engage the transmission for D or R, they shift gears once you are moving, D and R are mechanically engaged by the one-way clutches(sprags)
1st gear uses the Coast Clutch solenoid to engage, not the sprag, which is why it works to move vehicle, and why you know the solenoids ARE working and its a mechanical issue not an electrical issue
2006 Ranger will have a 5R44E(4cyl or 3.0l) or a 5R55E(4.0l) model automatic
Basically the same transmissions, 4.0l has larger OD drum
car-part.com
Its a good place to look for local used parts if you don't want to rebuild your transmission
Must be 2001-2011 model and match engine size, and match 2WD or 4x4, no conversion is possible
5R44E is often called 5R55E, that's OK, as long as engine size matches, 2.3l or 3.0l, it will be a 5R44E
Always use a new torque converter, and install it correctly INSIDE transmission before bolting trans to engine<<<<very important
Always clean out the trans cooler and lines, as they will also have mental bits in them
P1000 just means you disconnected the battery so computer is running self tests of emissions systems
P1270 means excessive RPMs in gear, which fits with the transmission codes
And no, disconnecting battery won't effect transmission in any way
Reads like your one-way clutch has failed, tell tail is no/slow movement in D(or R) but does move in 1st, also means torque converter is not the issue
Requires a full rebuild to repair
Not a common failure but a known failure on all automatics, not a Ford or Ranger thing, all automatics use sprags(one-way clutches)
Drain the fluid and check it, and the filter, for metal bits, one-way clutch failure would cause metal bits to show up
Failed sprag(one-way clutch) seen here: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums...181-jpg.85555/
There is no warning sign to speak of, one day it works, the next day it doesn't
No connection to charging system, simply a coincidence
No electrical solenoids engage the transmission for D or R, they shift gears once you are moving, D and R are mechanically engaged by the one-way clutches(sprags)
1st gear uses the Coast Clutch solenoid to engage, not the sprag, which is why it works to move vehicle, and why you know the solenoids ARE working and its a mechanical issue not an electrical issue
2006 Ranger will have a 5R44E(4cyl or 3.0l) or a 5R55E(4.0l) model automatic
Basically the same transmissions, 4.0l has larger OD drum
car-part.com
Its a good place to look for local used parts if you don't want to rebuild your transmission
Must be 2001-2011 model and match engine size, and match 2WD or 4x4, no conversion is possible
5R44E is often called 5R55E, that's OK, as long as engine size matches, 2.3l or 3.0l, it will be a 5R44E
Always use a new torque converter, and install it correctly INSIDE transmission before bolting trans to engine<<<<very important
Always clean out the trans cooler and lines, as they will also have mental bits in them
Last edited by RonD; Feb 11, 2022 at 10:31 AM.
are you positive that that's the only possible issue, couldn't be a blown out seal on the valve body and losing pressure? Also i just took it for a drive a found something out that's interesting. So when o/d is on you can't get through the gears to start off same thing when it's off but when you shift 1st and 2nd manually then turn o/d off and switch to D i can continue through all the gears even downshift but once it does downshift to 1st or 2nd it's got nothing. I find that pretty strange personally.
No one can diagnose an automatic transmission remotely, lol
You can take it to a trans shop and they can test the pressure thru all the gears, or you can, need a pressure gauge capable of 400psi, and connectors for the two ports on the sides of the transmission
Good read here: https://atracom.blob.core.windows.ne.../2003_5_50.pdf
Yes, all automatics run on fluid pressure so very important for shifting gears, so pressure test would tell you more
If you had D but a slow or no R that would indicate it might be a pressure issue, R requires a higher pressure
But no D or R is almost always a mechanical issue, and 1st working points to failed one-way clutch, and that there IS enough pressure to engage coast clutch
Similar to diagnosing a flat tire, but automatics are way more complicated, even more than engine diagnostics, its literally a best guess
Flat tire
Obviously air pressure inside the tire is lower than it should be
Most likely cause is a leak of pressure via road debris, nail or screw
But could be someone let the air out while you were not around, or slashed tire
Could be leaking valve stem
Could be broken bead on tire
Flat tires are often just a nail or screw, but have to actually look at it to find out what is wrong
You can take it to a trans shop and they can test the pressure thru all the gears, or you can, need a pressure gauge capable of 400psi, and connectors for the two ports on the sides of the transmission
Good read here: https://atracom.blob.core.windows.ne.../2003_5_50.pdf
Yes, all automatics run on fluid pressure so very important for shifting gears, so pressure test would tell you more
If you had D but a slow or no R that would indicate it might be a pressure issue, R requires a higher pressure
But no D or R is almost always a mechanical issue, and 1st working points to failed one-way clutch, and that there IS enough pressure to engage coast clutch
Similar to diagnosing a flat tire, but automatics are way more complicated, even more than engine diagnostics, its literally a best guess
Flat tire
Obviously air pressure inside the tire is lower than it should be
Most likely cause is a leak of pressure via road debris, nail or screw
But could be someone let the air out while you were not around, or slashed tire
Could be leaking valve stem
Could be broken bead on tire
Flat tires are often just a nail or screw, but have to actually look at it to find out what is wrong
Last edited by RonD; Feb 11, 2022 at 09:15 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



