03 Ranger swap (and questions!) - Page 2 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


8-Cylinder Tech If you are one of the few with a V8 engine in your Ranger, or if you dream of a Ranger with a V8 engine, this is the sub-forum for you.

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  #26  
Old 01-06-2015
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nice truck! jealous of your backhalf. As far as cams, either of the ones you mentioned would be good until you make further modifications.

I think with my new build I'm going with a Anderson n-91

I could drink beer all day in a chair listening to this come out of my ranger
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  #27  
Old 01-06-2015
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Originally Posted by INT3RC3PTOR View Post
nice truck! jealous of your backhalf. As far as cams, either of the ones you mentioned would be good until you make further modifications.

I think with my new build I'm going with a Anderson n-91

I could drink beer all day in a chair listening to this come out of my ranger
306 Mustang idle. Anderson N-91 cam. - YouTube
That does sound sweet
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  #28  
Old 01-09-2015
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Anyone happen to know if there is a factory driveshaft from anything that will fit a 2WD setup?
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  #29  
Old 01-09-2015
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Anyone happen to know if there is a factory driveshaft from anything that will fit a 2WD setup?
I haven't heard of one. I would love to know if there was an option outside of altering the existing shaft too, but I don't think there is one.
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  #30  
Old 01-10-2015
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I haven't heard of one. I would love to know if there was an option outside of altering the existing shaft too, but I don't think there is one.
Yeah I couldn't find anything searching either. I'll probably just have a custom one made or something.
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  #31  
Old 01-11-2015
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Did anyone take out their donor 5.0 engine and tranny as one and install it as such? I'm not doing anything to the donor 4R70, so I'd LIKE to keep it attached if possible. Seems like it will be tough to install in my Ranger though. The truck is fairly tall which would mean getting that engine/tranny pretty high up and putting it in at a steep angle. Not sure if its worth it. I might make my front core and sub frame removable... Its already heavily fabbed and minimal, so wouldn't be hard.
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  #32  
Old 01-11-2015
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They'll absolutely come out and go back in as a mated pair.

To complicate things, I've done the remove/install with Torque Monster headers installed which adds to the width quite a bit.

Only place things get crazy tight is the air box/header area (VERY easy to remove the complete air box) and leading edge of the oil sump and the cross member. Radiator needs to be out but the condenser can stay.

Having the harmonic balancer off the crank and upper intake off are requirements but neither are difficult to remove or reinstall.

Might be over kill, but I pulled the steering shaft out of the engine bay as well. Two bolts and under a minute to remove and then later reinstall. Easy way to add room to a tight situation.
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  #33  
Old 01-11-2015
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They'll absolutely come out and go back in as a mated pair.

To complicate things, I've done the remove/install with Torque Monster headers installed which adds to the width quite a bit.

Only place things get crazy tight is the air box/header area (VERY easy to remove the complete air box) and leading edge of the oil sump and the cross member. Radiator needs to be out but the condenser can stay.

Having the harmonic balancer off the crank and upper intake off are requirements but neither are difficult to remove or reinstall.

Might be over kill, but I pulled the steering shaft out of the engine bay as well. Two bolts and under a minute to remove and then later reinstall. Easy way to add room to a tight situation.
That's a relief. I'll have most of the big stuff and all of the air components off of the 5.0 as well, so sounds like I shouldn't have an issue. I only have someones help and their nice hoist for a weekend, and would love to get the Ranger 4.0/tranny out, and the 5.0/tranny out at one time. Thanks!
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  #34  
Old 01-12-2015
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the more you can remove off the front will help you a lot too. Like the grill/core support etc.
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  #35  
Old 01-18-2015
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My brother came up this morning and we disconnected a bunch of components and pulled both engines with trannys on them. It was a lot of work, but we pushed and got it done. Now to sell the 4.0 and also begin on the 5.0!

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  #36  
Old 01-18-2015
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Badass! I just want your back half on my truck :)
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  #37  
Old 01-18-2015
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Badass! I just want your back half on my truck :)
With a couple tubes here and there you can :)

SO HAPPY to get the motor on the stand today! now I can start on it.
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  #38  
Old 01-19-2015
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yeah..i really should go links now that the truck is torn down so far. I just wanted to get the motor in and beat on it for a bit then link it. But maybe I should just try and sell the rear kit and go from there.


engine on the stand is a good thing! if you need any parts for it let me know, I got mine all tore down and I'm not using any of it :)
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  #39  
Old 01-19-2015
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I'm really liking that grille idea, good to see some progress with the 5.0!
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  #40  
Old 01-19-2015
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BROKE A BOLT OFF IN THE HEAD. CAN'T BELIEVE IT. It would not budge... Kept creaking it slowly back and forth, sprayed it with PB. Nope. Snap. Upon inspection, it is corroded down to its core. It's the small one next to the front left coolant port, so not surprised.

Torn down as much as I'm going to. Going to clean what I can by hand, throw in the cam and springs, and get her put back together to paint.



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  #41  
Old 01-20-2015
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freakn bummer! yeah those damn coolant bolts can be a beach sometimes with what the coolant does to them. Hopefully you get it out without too much trouble. just take you're time and you'll get it.

have any easy outs or drill extractors? otherwise just use a small drill bit and drill through it and work your way up to where you can use a little dental pick type tool to pick the remnants off. then use a tap to clean the threads good.

If either of those don't work just drill it larger through the old threads and re tap it larger and the head and get the larger bolt for it.
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  #42  
Old 01-20-2015
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Originally Posted by INT3RC3PTOR View Post
freakn bummer! yeah those damn coolant bolts can be a beach sometimes with what the coolant does to them. Hopefully you get it out without too much trouble. just take you're time and you'll get it.

have any easy outs or drill extractors? otherwise just use a small drill bit and drill through it and work your way up to where you can use a little dental pick type tool to pick the remnants off. then use a tap to clean the threads good.

If either of those don't work just drill it larger through the old threads and re tap it larger and the head and get the larger bolt for it.
Yeah I got everything. I work at Fastenal, so I'm replacing most of the hardware that I take out with new S/S fasteners. Hopefully its not too bad.

Got everything off the motor and decided to spend some time on the lower intake. Cleaned the hell out of it and did a very mild port and polished the ports some. Cleaned the burrs off and smoothed it out some.

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  #43  
Old 01-20-2015
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^^ Looks kind of pitted. Is that normal?
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  #44  
Old 01-20-2015
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^^ Looks kind of pitted. Is that normal?
Just irregularities from the casting.
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  #45  
Old 01-20-2015
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^^ Looks kind of pitted. Is that normal?
Its now "pitted" because I ground down the burrs which were protruding. Its not smooth like the machined surface above. Its all cast, even inside and looked just like the casting on the outside you can see. Now those are all flush and there are pits left. I'd have to grind down the material the rest of the way all the way around to get a truly smooth surface. Trust me, its 80-90% better than it was and is smooth to the touch.
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  #46  
Old 01-20-2015
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Its now "pitted" because I ground down the burrs which were protruding. Its not smooth like the machined surface above. Its all cast, even inside and looked just like the casting on the outside you can see. Now those are all flush and there are pits left. I'd have to grind down the material the rest of the way all the way around to get a truly smooth surface. Trust me, its 80-90% better than it was and is smooth to the touch.
That's cool. I don't know much about that stuff. Looks like you're taking the time to make it look nice and right the first time. I can dig it.
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  #47  
Old 01-21-2015
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Yeah I got everything. I work at Fastenal, so I'm replacing most of the hardware that I take out with new S/S fasteners. Hopefully its not too bad.
good deal. yeah always nice to have hookups on stuff like that.
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  #48  
Old 01-23-2015
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Well that bolt was in there quite well... Without mangling the threads more, I had to remove the head to get at it from the other side... What does that mean? It means new heads of course... New as in I'm taking them to the machine shop on Monday for a regrind of the mating surface and valves with a nice clean up. Also having them thrown on the Trick Flow springs for me while they are at it. I already have enough other crap to do now. ARP studs and Fel-pro gaskets on the way. Whats another $475 on top of the $700 over initial "budget", right?
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  #49  
Old 01-26-2015
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Does anyone have any info on what I can delete or block emission wise? I don't have/need anything to do with emissions on this truck (minus exhaust). I know there is a lot of EGR crap and whatnot all over these engines, and I'm not quite sure what I can get rid of. All evap and fuel related stuff is gone since I use a fuel cell. I don't care if the check engine light is on (already was lit up with my 4.0).

Any input would be appreciated before I start throwing the engine back together.
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  #50  
Old 01-27-2015
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I know you can block the egr off with a plate. I would do search on the googles for mustangs or even on the explorer forum. For the most part you can delete it all, just have to block it off in whatever way it needs. just throws codes, but nothing I don't think that messes with how it runs. can always get the computer tuned down the road to remove it all.
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