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03 Ranger swap (and questions!)

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  #51  
Old 01-27-2015
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Originally Posted by INT3RC3PTOR
I know you can block the egr off with a plate. I would do search on the googles for mustangs or even on the explorer forum. For the most part you can delete it all, just have to block it off in whatever way it needs. just throws codes, but nothing I don't think that messes with how it runs. can always get the computer tuned down the road to remove it all.
Yeah I've looked at a lot of threads and stuff. The biggest thing is that it is really hard to tell what does what coming from the many hoses on and around the intake. I just really dislike how much oil and crap is sitting in the intake from all the emission stuff.
 
  #52  
Old 01-27-2015
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yeeep, its all total bullshit and really just poops up the engine. Its not a carb'd engine, so basically anything coming off the upper intake that isn't the throttle body, fuel line or idle air control you can pretty much ditch. And obviously anything that is a coolant related line keep.
 
  #53  
Old 02-01-2015
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Well I've done a LOT of cleaning and painting in the last week. Got everything painted to my choice colors, including hand painting my intake plaque tonight. Everything should look good and flow well without being too flashy or anything. Here's some pics:

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And a glamor shot of the cam (now in the block!)

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Waiting on new head alignment dowels, then its going together!
 
  #54  
Old 02-01-2015
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intake plate came out nice!
 
  #55  
Old 02-01-2015
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Looking good!

How's that E303 cam suppose to perform?
 
  #56  
Old 02-01-2015
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Originally Posted by INT3RC3PTOR
intake plate came out nice!
Thanks! I thought so as well. Not super pretty up close, but from a couple feet away it works lol

Originally Posted by win
Looking good!

How's that E303 cam suppose to perform?
It's an old school grind that has done well for years. There are probably better universal grinds out there now, but the E is proven and does well in the 5.0's. Most people that throw them in an Explorer notice a lot of lost torque down low due to the factory Expo cam being super torquey down low for the big SUV that is supposed to tow and stuff. I have 4.88's in my truck, so bottom end shouldn't be a problem at all. I'm building my truck for the dunes though, so I want the mid-high end power spinning paddles. There should be considerable HP gain from the E cam though.
 
  #57  
Old 02-04-2015
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Coming together well so far

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  #58  
Old 02-05-2015
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So I bought this Ford oil filter adapter since it's listed as a fix for the placement: P/N M-6880-A50, and I'm wondering how it fixes the problem... Do I hook it up to where the factory filter goes? Or do I replace the cooler with it? I'm sure the cooler would stay, but assuming you got a relocation kit, it would be replaced as well. What about the radiator hose? Is there a formed replacement? Any input is appreciated.
 
  #59  
Old 02-07-2015
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So I guess I'm going to return this Ford Racing 90* adapter... After Googling a lot of V8 swaps, it seems like the stock setup works just fine... Not sure why it was listed as a necessity on The Ranger station... I measured as well and it looks like it will clear the steering rack just fine. Only thing so far that I bought beforehand that isn't needed thankfully.
 
  #60  
Old 02-08-2015
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IT'S IN! Time to start hooking things up!

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  #61  
Old 02-08-2015
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Looks awesome. Did you figure out the oil filter issue?
 
  #62  
Old 02-08-2015
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Originally Posted by RLong31
Looks awesome. Did you figure out the oil filter issue?
Yeah, nothing needs modifying to fit. Same exact everything as the Explorer. Dropped right in with no problems, and takes up a hell of a lot less space than the 4.0... Not sure what the whole remote oil filter references on those tech articles, but glad the factory fit just fine. Plus I get $89 back.
 
  #63  
Old 02-08-2015
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  #64  
Old 02-08-2015
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Nice progress!
 
  #65  
Old 02-08-2015
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Lookin good !
 
  #66  
Old 02-10-2015
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EDIT: Nevermind! I remember everything after studying the vacuum hoses. I'm still wondering if I can just block the coolant port on the heater hose rail going to the EGR, and then just block the EGR port after removing it... Only thing after that is the small vacuum line to plug going to the EGR, and then plugging the port that goes to evap (I don't have that)

Ok so begins a lot of little questions about things as I hook them up... Heres a few...

Can anyone help identify and let me know which of these I can plug, leave open, remove, etc., for an EGR delete? I've numbered them for easy identification. I'd like to do everything before I get it on there. If possible, it would be nice to know what to do with the attaching lines of each whether it be vacuum or coolant if not just plug them.

THANKS!!!

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Last edited by JB5587; 02-10-2015 at 03:48 PM.
  #67  
Old 02-10-2015
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1 is the PCV suction
2 is married to 5
3 is the Evap suction
4 is the brake booster suction
6 is the FPR suction
7 is the shared suction for the EGR, A/C flaps and Evap solenoid.
8 and 9 are water supply and return for throttle body heat (can be omitted or eliminated if you cap off the two corresponding nipples on the hot water rail that supplies water to the heater core.)
 
  #68  
Old 02-10-2015
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Originally Posted by win
1 is the PCV suction
2 is married to 5
3 is the Evap suction
4 is the brake booster suction
6 is the FPR suction
7 is the shared suction for the EGR, A/C flaps and Evap solenoid.
8 and 9 are water supply and return for throttle body heat (can be omitted or eliminated if you cap off the two corresponding nipples on the hot water rail that supplies water to the heater core.)
You rock man! Your head must be full of such random 5.0 crap. lol! (Although, I'd like that right about now..)

Yeah I was just making sure that there wouldn't be any problems with blocking those coolant ports. I didn't know they were just for the throttle body and the coolant goes in then out just at that spot like it seems. Do you foresee (besides just another CEL) any problems with blocking off the EGR? I'm not sure if the performance will take a hit until I get a tune on my SCT. Thanks for the help. I'm starting on the wiring part here and am waiting for a EVTM, but I'm having a hard time getting my hands on an 03. I'm THINKING of just doing the repinning you posted and hope the 02-03 is the same like it is with pretty much everything else...
 
  #69  
Old 02-10-2015
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I think 7 is the evap hose. I have a pre-disassembled picture showing the hose connecting to the front vertical tube on the intake (#7) and running to the evap purge valve on the driver side fender. Can I block off #7, or is it a pressure system? I don't want to build up pressure anywhere, but I also no longer have an evap valve or any hoses there and the vacuum has been capped going to that.
 
  #70  
Old 02-10-2015
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After messing around with everything, I'm just keeping the EGR. I have a lot of room in the engine bay, and its not bothering anything. When I get a dyno/sct tune, I'll get rid of it. Still having trouble finding an 03 EVTM to do the repinning. I'm going to ask around the forums if anyone can verify that the 03 is the same as others.
 
  #71  
Old 02-18-2015
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Anyone know the serp belt length for no A/C on the 5.0? I can measure later, but I'd like to not buy several and just get the right one on the way home.
 
  #72  
Old 02-18-2015
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looks like a really clean swap!
 
  #73  
Old 02-18-2015
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Originally Posted by zabeard
looks like a really clean swap!
Thanks! Looking like I might be done by this weekend
 
  #74  
Old 02-24-2015
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ITS ALIVE!!!! Short exhaust video. Its running a bit rough and getting some semi-loud valve train ticking on the left bank, so I didn't run it much or even let it idle. I'll get better video later this week. I'm going to try to get a local Ford guy that knows more than I do to diagnose it as I really don't feel like tearing into the bastard again. And don't mind the mess of wires. Just getting it running.

Thanks for all the help thus far! Especially Win who helped me quite a bit with the specifics even after I PM'ed him a ton!

http://vid97.photobucket.com/albums/...psehcxmiu2.mp4

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Last edited by JB5587; 02-24-2015 at 01:27 AM.
  #75  
Old 02-24-2015
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Not sure if my temp gauge is working yet since I haven't ran it long at all, but I didn't change anything in my tach and it works with the 5.0 which is cool. Doubt my speedometer will work though. The only thing not working that I can see right away is the oil pressure gauge (oil LEVEL gauge on 4.0 cluster??) It wants to move, but stays near L.
 


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