8-Cylinder Tech If you are one of the few with a V8 engine in your Ranger, or if you dream of a Ranger with a V8 engine, this is the sub-forum for you.

351w heads on 302

  #1  
Old 1 Week Ago
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351w heads on 302

Iíve been searching for cheap heads for a little while for my 302 as I bought it with no heads.

Itís a 5.0 from an 87 f150

I stopped to visit my uncles yesterday and my cousin gave me the heads off his 2.5 ton bronco with a built 351w as he recently went with a set of AFRs

And I could be wrong but judging by the casting number on the heads (I couldíve decoded it wrong) theyíre from a 75 truck? EB-D5TE? The heads are also complete

Now Iíve searched and searched, some say nothing has to be changed some say some things have to be changed. Iíve seen you can run a 302 intake, some say you HAVE to run a 351 intake.

The 302 is bored .030 over with flat top pistons, .498/.498 cam

I know the head bolt size is different but you can buy bolts for the swap

Any of yíall have any knowledge on this? What head gasket to use? Intake? Compression issues? Headers?
 
  #2  
Old 1 Week Ago
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The 351 Heads will bolt on, no problems... CHEAP I'm not too sure !
Use a 302 Intake manifold, based on deck height.
The problem starts with the sealing of the Intake manifold, you have to use extra silicone gasket material around the water ports of the intake manifold.
When/If you get the 351 heads, take a look at the intake port matchup and the head bolts are special, threaded for the 302 block and a large shoulder for the 351 heads; might be hard to find the correct bolts.

Get a good valve job, don't cut the heads (grind them for flat) too much because of intake alignment, if you intent to machine the intake then have the same machine shop do the heads and the intake.
Again, if you square the block, you will need to check the heads/intake matching surfaces, which the machine shop should know the amounts to cut.

While the heads are getting a valve job you will need to get them machined for screw-in studs (better than pressed in OEM 351 Studs) and think about Roller Rockers.
If you do the Screw In Studs, get a good water resistant thread sealant and use it on all of the rocker studs.

I can get you a copy of the pages in the Ford Power Books from years back, that can give you more info than I can remember.
Yes I have done this same thing but I did a very powerful 289 V8, starting with a Hipo Block, similar to the Mexican 302 Block.

Post up what you are doing, check out the costs of machining before buying the heads, in todays market it could be just as expensive to buy some Street Trick Flow Heads that fit out of the box.

One thing, cast iron heads are suppose to make better torque on the street than aluminum heads, something to think about.

Good Luck, great project
 
  #3  
Old 1 Week Ago
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Originally Posted by Scrambler82 View Post
The 351 Heads will bolt on, no problems... CHEAP I'm not too sure !
Use a 302 Intake manifold, based on deck height.
The problem starts with the sealing of the Intake manifold, you have to use extra silicone gasket material around the water ports of the intake manifold.
When/If you get the 351 heads, take a look at the intake port matchup and the head bolts are special, threaded for the 302 block and a large shoulder for the 351 heads; might be hard to find the correct bolts.

Get a good valve job, don't cut the heads (grind them for flat) too much because of intake alignment, if you intent to machine the intake then have the same machine shop do the heads and the intake.
Again, if you square the block, you will need to check the heads/intake matching surfaces, which the machine shop should know the amounts to cut.

While the heads are getting a valve job you will need to get them machined for screw-in studs (better than pressed in OEM 351 Studs) and think about Roller Rockers.
If you do the Screw In Studs, get a good water resistant thread sealant and use it on all of the rocker studs.

I can get you a copy of the pages in the Ford Power Books from years back, that can give you more info than I can remember.
Yes I have done this same thing but I did a very powerful 289 V8, starting with a Hipo Block, similar to the Mexican 302 Block.

Post up what you are doing, check out the costs of machining before buying the heads, in todays market it could be just as expensive to buy some Street Trick Flow Heads that fit out of the box.

One thing, cast iron heads are suppose to make better torque on the street than aluminum heads, something to think about.

Good Luck, great project
best information Iíve received so far. Thank you sir. The heads were free btw, and complete. They were taken off the motor and right into the bed of my truck
 
  #4  
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Originally Posted by Logan95 View Post
best information Iíve received so far. Thank you sir. The heads were free btw, and complete. They were taken off the motor and right into the bed of my truck
OK so you are ahead of the game so far.
Although as stated the 351 heads are bolt on, they are not a straight up swap, unless things are machined and ready to go.

How many miles on the heads ?

I found my 65 Stang with the mod'd 289 was what I thought to be pretty fast for the street, mid 12's, I still say check out what the machine work will cost before going to far. At prices today the machine work will be costly and parts for the valve job, new cam and lifters... Roller Rockers, push rods or a Cam Kit... machine work on the heads alone, everything together might not be what the word "CHEAP" means to you !

If you go this route, contact me and I will see if I can copy the pages you will need with Ford info and Part Numbers.
I think my e-mail is here somewhere, if not PM me and send me an e-mail Addie, so the Pages can be transferred easier.

Good Luck, don't rush into this swap !
 
  #5  
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Originally Posted by Scrambler82 View Post
OK so you are ahead of the game so far.
Although as stated the 351 heads are bolt on, they are not a straight up swap, unless things are machined and ready to go.

How many miles on the heads ?

I found my 65 Stang with the mod'd 289 was what I thought to be pretty fast for the street, mid 12's, I still say check out what the machine work will cost before going to far. At prices today the machine work will be costly and parts for the valve job, new cam and lifters... Roller Rockers, push rods or a Cam Kit... machine work on the heads alone, everything together might not be what the word "CHEAP" means to you !

If you go this route, contact me and I will see if I can copy the pages you will need with Ford info and Part Numbers.
I think my e-mail is here somewhere, if not PM me and send me an e-mail Addie, so the Pages can be transferred easier.

Good Luck, don't rush into this swap !
hard to say on miles. The heads were built and thrown on the mud truck. So the truck has never seen pavement with these heads. Truck has been used maybe 6 months total in the 2 years the heads were installed but only in the mud pit
 
  #6  
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Originally Posted by Logan95 View Post
hard to say on miles. The heads were built and thrown on the mud truck. So the truck has never seen pavement with these heads. Truck has been used maybe 6 months total in the 2 years the heads were installed but only in the mud pit
These heads could be reworked to the performance side, there angle valve job, larger valves, they will accept 2.02 intakes and larger exhaust valves and with a little porting, not much, they can really breathe.

Take the heads apart, keep everything separated and marked as to location o each valve, each spring, every little part, keep a record.
Clean them up, take a look at the seats, the guides, the head surface, make sure there isn't any cracks and since this truck will be your DD, it might not hurt to have a good shop look at them and give them a Magnaflux job to check for any cracks.
The reason I ask, Mud Runs, maybe a lot of heat running through these heads, did the truck they came from have a cooling system, did it ever over heat; another thing to consider, since it will be the DD !

But you are on the right page, these heads will flow better than GT 40 heads and should work well for you except for one more thing, I forgot, the GT40/ Explorer P heads were a little different angle to the exhaust ports, I don't think much but I think the header might have an issue, just something to check out. this should only be a problem in a 4x, so maybe not a big deal.

Ltr
 
  #7  
Old 1 Week Ago
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Originally Posted by Scrambler82 View Post
These heads could be reworked to the performance side, there angle valve job, larger valves, they will accept 2.02 intakes and larger exhaust valves and with a little porting, not much, they can really breathe.

Take the heads apart, keep everything separated and marked as to location o each valve, each spring, every little part, keep a record.
Clean them up, take a look at the seats, the guides, the head surface, make sure there isn't any cracks and since this truck will be your DD, it might not hurt to have a good shop look at them and give them a Magnaflux job to check for any cracks.
The reason I ask, Mud Runs, maybe a lot of heat running through these heads, did the truck they came from have a cooling system, did it ever over heat; another thing to consider, since it will be the DD !

But you are on the right page, these heads will flow better than GT 40 heads and should work well for you except for one more thing, I forgot, the GT40/ Explorer P heads were a little different angle to the exhaust ports, I don't think much but I think the header might have an issue, just something to check out. this should only be a problem in a 4x, so maybe not a big deal.

Ltr
The truck did have a cooling system. Iíve checked for cracks and havenít found any
 
  #8  
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Originally Posted by Scrambler82 View Post
These heads could be reworked to the performance side, there angle valve job, larger valves, they will accept 2.02 intakes and larger exhaust valves and with a little porting, not much, they can really breathe.

Take the heads apart, keep everything separated and marked as to location o each valve, each spring, every little part, keep a record.
Clean them up, take a look at the seats, the guides, the head surface, make sure there isn't any cracks and since this truck will be your DD, it might not hurt to have a good shop look at them and give them a Magnaflux job to check for any cracks.
The reason I ask, Mud Runs, maybe a lot of heat running through these heads, did the truck they came from have a cooling system, did it ever over heat; another thing to consider, since it will be the DD !

But you are on the right page, these heads will flow better than GT 40 heads and should work well for you except for one more thing, I forgot, the GT40/ Explorer P heads were a little different angle to the exhaust ports, I don't think much but I think the header might have an issue, just something to check out. this should only be a problem in a 4x, so maybe not a big deal.

Ltr






 
  #9  
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Does that bring back memories !

Since you feel comfortable with these heads, can't hurt more than time to clean them up and put them on.

New special bolts, good quality head gaskets and intake gaskets, and go for it !

Once running watch for temp, oil pressure, and rocker arm clacking, if all is ok then you may well have whiten a win/win !

Hope all works out, keep posting ae you go along and give it a try.

Later,
 
  #10  
Old 1 Week Ago
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Originally Posted by Scrambler82 View Post
Does that bring back memories !

Since you feel comfortable with these heads, can't hurt more than time to clean them up and put them on.

New special bolts, good quality head gaskets and intake gaskets, and go for it !

Once running watch for temp, oil pressure, and rocker arm clacking, if all is ok then you may well have whiten a win/win !

Hope all works out, keep posting ae you go along and give it a try.

Later,
Gonna be a little bit till it gets going, wife said I have to wait till after the baby is born lol so got about 4 more weeks and have to get settled in to the new job.
 
  #11  
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Hey, Life must go on !

Take your time, do it right the first time !

If you plan on high revs out of your 5.0L, think hard on replacing the pressed in Raocker Studs or watch for problems.
One problem that can happen is a Stud pops out and jams the valve open... !

Congrats on the baby, a new person you can teach about Fords... !
 
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