91 302 swap. Any helpful info would be appreciated. - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #1  
Old 05-28-2016
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Join Date: May 2016
Location: Memphis, TN
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91 302 swap. Any helpful info would be appreciated.

OK so I'm going to be Frank, I have general understanding about automotives and such but I pretty much kinda learned about cars on my own(no schooling or classes and nobody in my family were into cars) so I don't know everything and I learn more everyday. I have a 1991 single cab ranger 2wd that originally had the 4.0 and 5spd in it. I fell in love with it the moment I drove it(was even more fun when I could out drift my mustang friends in dry and wet weather, lol). The motor is losing compression on cylinder #1 but this little truck has more potential to be badass. I want to put a 5.0 in it here are my plans and any advice for parts and whatever else whether it contradicts my ideas I would love to hear. My goal is 350-400. I'm trying to make it a street and strip truck. Here is what I have so far and what I plan to use: I have a 5.0 xxx roller block that's already bored .40 over with stock (Ford) rods, pistons with valve reliefs, and crank. I also have some gt40p heads with upgraded head stud size to I believe 7/16 inside the head and for the rocker with ARP studs and comp cam guide plates. I would like to use the scorpion 1.6 roller rockers they were recommended by one of the machinists at bbandt in South Haven. I plan to use felpro MLS head gaskets and ARP head bolts and bolts for everything. I have a e303 Ford racing cam with roller lifters. I want it to be carbed( I live in Memphis so no need to worry about emissions) for easy install and and not really much wiring and it's cheaper in the long run plus no 30 lb intake for less engine mass. I've been told to use a Holley 650cfm. I want to use a electric fuel pump. I have heard do to steering gear box clearance it's hard to run mechanical. I was told a Holley blue pump w/ regulator was good for what I'm trying to do. I plan to put a gas tank from a 88 ranger( think it's like a 14 gal tank not sure on that one) in a tool box I custom made to have easy accessibility and better center gravity instead of the one under the driver side of the bed. I know it's not the safest but I plan to insulate it and have it strapped to the bed. I have some race seats and plan to use retro fits 4 point harness and will be making a custom in cab roll cage. If there is a good one already out there will consider. Was thinking of using either bilstiens or comp engineering 3way adjustable front struts and Monroe's fully adjustable rear coilovers in the rear. Brakes will be upgraded to drilled/ slotted rotors in the front with some sort of towing or race pads and keeping the drums considering its only going to be probably under 400. I have ripped out all of the interior except the door panels and will not be running a/c but would like to have a radio. I have a 88 t5 with the bell housing that I want to rebuild. I prefer to keep it stick. Will the drive shaft need to be modified other then a stronger yoke. I believe the wheel base is 108.6 or something in that ball park. I don't really know what headers to run so any advice on that would be greatly appreciated and what kind of motor mounts or adapter plates to use. Need help and advice with the tranny install for sure. Ideas on radiators would be nice. Would like to run efans. I've seen what's been used/what's out there just wanted some feed back on what's worth using.

Last edited by Stranger.danger.ranger901; 05-28-2016 at 11:44 PM.
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Old 05-29-2016
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Welcome to the forum

4.0l Regular Cab Ranger is a rarity, special order from factory, just FYI, Regular cab Rangers were 2.3l or 2.9l/3.0l, expecting best MPG buyers more than power buyers

It should have 8.8" rear end, all 4.0l should have
You can check the door label to see what it has, look here for codes: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...le_codes.shtml

I wouldn't use studs for the heads in a Ranger swap, unless you can double nut them to remove the studs, tight squeeze in engine bay wouldn't allow head removal with studs in place.

I would add an oil pressure switch for the electric fuel pump with carb use.
'91 Ranger will already have a Fuel pump relay, Green base, that gets Ground from computer to activate it, and oil pressure sender on '91 will be a switch not a true pressure sender.
Just transfer that relay ground wire to the oil pressure switch, which is a ground when oil pressure is above 6psi.
Use a "T" to add "real pressure sender" like PS60, dash gauge in '91 can also be modified to use the PS60 to show "real pressure"
Safety reasons, cuts power to pump if fuel line breaks or engine stalls, EFI computer would normally do that.
Inertia switch is also there for same reason but only activates in a collision.

You can use Chevy type HEI distributor for spark, very reliable, much better than any Ford system, use "coil in cap" models $40-$60, 2 wire hook up plus tach wire

Good info here on parts needed: Ford Ranger V-8 Engine Swap


T5 will be fine, although it's shifter location can be an issue, need custom shift arm bent for best location for you.
1997 and up F-150 4.2l V6 2wd M5OD-R2 will bolt to the 302 block, and has shifter in same location as the ranger M5OD-R1
But it won't have speedo cable hook up, '91 Ranger still used mechanical speedometer

Drive shaft almost always needs to be modified, there are too many placement and trans combinations to say "this will work", you will need to measure and then see if you can find a stock match or get custom shaft.

E-fan is almost a "have to" because of clearance, since no AC you can put the e-fan(s) in front of rad, where AC condenser would sit.
Fan is DC motor so can push or pull air in either direction depending on how you wire it.
Carb intakes usually only have 1 temp sender hole, needed for dash board gauge, you can add a bung to upper rad hose for e-fan temp sender that activates e-fan relay.
You just cut rad hose insert the bung and add a couple of hose clamps.

Last edited by RonD; 05-29-2016 at 12:20 PM.
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Old 05-29-2016
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Join Date: May 2016
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by RonD View Post
Welcome to the forum

4.0l Regular Cab Ranger is a rarity, special order from factory, just FYI, Regular cab Rangers were 2.3l or 2.9l/3.0l, expecting best MPG buyers more than power buyers

It should have 8.8" rear end, all 4.0l should have
You can check the door label to see what it has, look here for codes: Ford 7.5 & 8.8 Inch Axle Tag & Door Codes

I wouldn't use studs for the heads in a Ranger swap, unless you can double nut them to remove the studs, tight squeeze in engine bay wouldn't allow head removal with studs in place.

I would add an oil pressure switch for the electric fuel pump with carb use.
'91 Ranger will already have a Fuel pump relay, Green base, that gets Ground from computer to activate it, and oil pressure sender on '91 will be a switch not a true pressure sender.
Just transfer that relay ground wire to the oil pressure switch, which is a ground when oil pressure is above 6psi.
Use a "T" to add "real pressure sender" like PS60, dash gauge in '91 can also be modified to use the PS60 to show "real pressure"
Safety reasons, cuts power to pump if fuel line breaks or engine stalls, EFI computer would normally do that.
Inertia switch is also there for same reason but only activates in a collision.

You can use Chevy type HEI distributor for spark, very reliable, much better than any Ford system, use "coil in cap" models $40-$60, 2 wire hook up plus tach wire

Good info here on parts needed: Ford Ranger V-8 Engine Swap


T5 will be fine, although it's shifter location can be an issue, need custom shift arm bent for best location for you.
1997 and up F-150 4.2l V6 2wd M5OD-R2 will bolt to the 302 block, and has shifter in same location as the ranger M5OD-R1
But it won't have speedo cable hook up, '91 Ranger still used mechanical speedometer

Drive shaft almost always needs to be modified, there are too many placement and trans combinations to say "this will work", you will need to measure and then see if you can find a stock match or get custom shaft.

E-fan is almost a "have to" because of clearance, since no AC you can put the e-fan(s) in front of rad, where AC condenser would sit.
Fan is DC motor so can push or pull air in either direction depending on how you wire it.
Carb intakes usually only have 1 temp sender hole, needed for dash board gauge, you can add a bung to upper rad hose for e-fan temp sender that activates e-fan relay.
You just cut rad hose insert the bung and add a couple of hose clamps.
I should have been a little more specific. I know it has a 8.8 in it. That's why I didn't mention it. I believe it has 3.55s. I ment to say 7/16 rock arm studs not just studs.
I will say this though, the reason I'm building this truck is for my great grandfather. He passed away after 94 years of life last summer and he worked for Ford when he got back from WW2 during the late 50s to mid 70s and that's all he owned. Strictly Ford. I intend to keep most components Ford with the exception of some small things in his honor. Hence the heads, rods, pistons,block, cam, transmission. I should've said that but I do appreciate all honesty and suggestions. It's just I made a promise I wont break.

I know of the t5 shifter complication but I know jegs has a rail shifter and/or I'll make it fit with a saw. The things I don't know are what kind of clutch cable to use. I think some one said b&m or bkk has a adjustable cable for foxbodys. Also will have to make use of a external slave cylinder but don't know how to mount it and what kind of clutch fork to use.

Also if any body knows a good place to start for a simple wiring kit for the few things I will have that would be great. I will have aftermarket pod guages(oil pressure, coolant temp, gas, voltage, tach, speedo) so any recommendations on some good gauges for a fair price would be good. Too many to choose from. Also will have switches for everything(fuel pump, starter, ignition, efan, lights((wiring was eaten by neglected battery acid from previous owner))all in that order). I plan to just cut the housing on the back of the OEM lights and put some off road light behind them. A friend of mine brother did that on his Cummins and it looked pretty good.

Headers are still a unknown factor due to gt40ps. Have heard of people using reverse 5.0 convertible motor mounts(L-RR-L). Any opinions on those?
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Old 10-26-2016
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: NORTH FAIRFIELD OHIO
Posts: 3
ive built a few of these sounds like you got a good start a trans you could consider is the early 80s truck 4 speed the shifter comes though the floor good and you can use all 83 hydraulic parts all you can get from autozone and its got overdrive. headers from 5.0 explorer will work with little mods. v8 mustang mounts with plates welded to the frame is easy too. your stock 4.0 rad should be enough to cool it you will have to make hoses. the stock drive shaft will work if you can have a machine shop make a 1 1/2 inch spacer to go between the shaft and the rear end. good luck
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  #5  
Old 12-21-2016
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Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: pittsburgh pa
Posts: 312
hi, the 4.0 rad will work fine, that's whats in mine. as for engine mounts, I used the plates from the 5.0, they bolt to lower side of block and they sit on the 3.0 mts, had to drill a hole on driver side and slot another a little but pass side fit perfect. not sure what you have. as for wiring kits???? your going carb so best of luck and with the power your going to get I'm wondering if your frame wont need a little reinforcing? just a thought
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