Ford Ranger 5.0 swap help please.
 

Hey guys I'm sure this has been over a bunch of times but slight differences raise questions. I have a 96 Explorer 5.0 2wd donor going into a 2001 3.0 2wd Ranger. Mostly together mechanically. Need a little wiring and fuel pressure advice. I thought I had the wiring figured out off another prerunners thread but my c115 pin 42 is spliced to pin 34 they are both bk/wt. My pin 13 is rd/org would I still ground these? Also fuel pressure can I just get an after market regulator to adjust to the correct psi or can I just have the pcm flashed telling it the fuel pressure of the ranger? Basically it just needs to know the pressure so its calculations will be correct right?
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ran...347fe34946.jpg

1996 Explorer should be running a Fuel Return system, so needs TWO fuel lines from engine bay to the gas tank, these used 30psi Fuel pressure
2001 Ranger will have the Return line to the gas tank but it will be on the Fuel filter and there is a Fuel Pressure regulator on the gas tank for this hose(needs to be removed), it used 60psi fuel pressure

Info on adapting that here: https://www.therangerstation.com/for...d.php?t=157576
Post #4

Computer has no clue as to fuel pressure, if pressure is too low it sets Lean Code, if pressure is to high it sets Rich code, there is no fuel pressure sensor
1996 computer will expect 25-35psi pressure, and base it calculation for injector open time on that


Not sure on the wiring, just look at what systems use them I guess

It's best to get a wiring diagram on eBay for both vehicles. Then then wiring guide I posted in my thread will make a lot more sense.

I think some years have different colored wires then others.

Great I was doing this based off ranger station 98+ guide and set it up with the returnless fuel rail. I am assuming this will not work because of the regulator on the rail is needed then? Sorry probably should have stated that in the original post. Would it work if I just run an after market FPR before the fuel rail and adjusted it to 40PSI or so? Cost a little money but seems easier.

Yeah my donor was a 97 explorer with the FPR on the fuel rail.
98+ might have different color wires.

I got her up and running! I put off the AC wiring though just pulled the fuses to ignore it at the time. In your wrire up for the AC. Most of it makes sense now that I have the EVTM. Only I don't have a c1006 on the 2001. Can you tell me from the PCM and AC pressure switch what other component does it splice too through that c1006 pin6? I can't figure it out. If I knew the component maybe I can piece it together.

2001 Ranger AC wiring attached below

The two Pressure switches pass a Ground if both are Closed, that would be the Black/yellow wire going to old PCM

You would hook that to the Pink/yellow wire that was on old PCM, it ground the AC Clutch relays coil

This would ground the AC Relay full time which you don't want, well key on full time

On the control panel is the Violet wire, pin , it also ran to old PCM, it will have 12v when AC or Defrost is selected, so turns AC on

On the AC Clutch Relay is a Red wire, pin 2, you would cut that wire and splice the Violet wire to it to power the relay

So AC clutch relay is grounded full time unless pressure changes, and it is turned on and off via control panel knob, and all fuses stay the same designation as in 2001 owners manual

So correct me if I'm wrong. Connect the black yellow to pink yellow that would go to the pcm bypassing the pcm. Then cut the red coming off the clutch relay and splice it to the Violet which would still run to the pcm. Basically bridging blk/yel over to the pcm but without running at fulltime. There is no blk/yel going to the explorer pcm like on the ranger pcm. That's why it would be done this way. Thanks again. I'm am just trying to understand and learn at the same time instead of just doing it. Seems right to me though if I understood it correctly?

yes, on the black/yellow to pink, that will Ground the clutch relay

No on the red wire

The red wire in question runs to the Clutch relay from PCM relay, not PCM, PCM relay is on with the key and powers the PCM, and most engine devices like injectors and IAC Valve, MAF ect.....
So you want to cut this red wire, an then at that time 1 end will have 12v(key on) and the other end will not, this is the end you want, the one that runs to the clutch relay, and this is the one you would splice the Violet wire to
The violet wire has 12v when AC switch in the cab is turned on, or when Defrost is selected(AC should always come on when defrost is selected)

So the clutch relay has a ground all the time, as long as pressure in AC system is OK
And then it gets 12v when AC is selected
And relay closes and powers the AC compressor clutch

Originally the Ground was used to turn this relay on and off, thru the PCM
PCM was told when to Ground this relay by getting the 12v from the violet wire

Perfect sounds good so I'm splicing the side of the red wire without power to the violet. Thanks for the info RonD looking forward yo driving this truck more then working on it soon.

Actually, for my A/C I didn't do anything. I just ran a separate wire to a switch to power on/off the A/C compressor. Works great lol

I tried to use the above method for my AC and im having issues. I have charged my ac. I spliced the black/yellow wire to the pink/yellow wire on the ranger side of the 42pin. I splice the violet wire into the red wire going into the ac clutch relay. I can hear the really click when the ac switch is turned on in the cab. Problem is i still dont have any power at the ac compressor. Ive even jumped the low pressure switch to get it going. I'd appreciate any help guys thank you. I live in AZ and its about to get real hot here!!

assuming 2003 Ranger?

Wring diagram below

Clutch is activated by 12v from the AC relay, power is from fuse #25 in engine fuse box
Clutch also needs a good ground to activate

The 2 pressure switches are GROUNDS, the wire runs from a ground point thru each switch to the Computer(PCM)
When you turn on the AC the PCM gets 12v "Demand" signal
PCM then connects "pressure switch" ground to the AC Relay
if pressure switches are closed then that ground causes AC relay to close and sends 12v from fuse 25 to the clutch

Demand signal's 12v is from Fuse #10 in the cab fuse box

Thanks for the quick response Ron, yes its an 03 edge (has 01 expo 5.0) I can get the relay to click when im turning the switch but still no power at the compressor clutch. I'm not sure where the ground and 12v run from to the compressor but ill get a multi meter havent ever needed to get this far in depth troubleshooting something electrical like this haha. Ill have to check for 12v coming from relay when switched and chase that circuit down I suppose.

If AC Relay "clicks" closed when you select AC in the cab, then both pressure switches are OK and Computer is OK.

You are just down to fuse 25 and the wiring from that fuse to AC relay, and from relay to clutch

This is assuming you have checked the clutch connector for a good Ground connection

The clutch uses a magnetic field coil, when 12volts is passed thru this coil of wire to a ground, it becomes a magnet and pulls the clutch forward to engage the pulley
Fords have a older known issue with "air gap", meaning the clutch is to far away from the coil so magnet can not pull it.

You would first test the wires at the clutch, volt meter should show 12v, ground, then switch to OHMs, test the coil wire, should be between 3 and 5 OHMs, higher or lower is a bad coil
If it all checks OK then you do have air gap issue, which can be fixed with shims
This was a issue on older Fords, haven't come across it in many years

Okay I think its a wiring issue because if i jump the compressor i have to wire direct to a grown and direct to 12v in order for it to engage the clutch.

Pull out the AC relay
Key OFF
Test each slot in relays plugin for 12volts
One slot should have 12volts, if not the fuse 25 or its wire to plug is bad

If you find the 12volts then fuse is OK

Plugin slots should look like this: https://www.delcity.net/images/output-for-a-relay.jpg

85 and 86 turn relay on, you know these work

30 or 87 should be the slot that has 12volts, key OFF
If you put a jumper wire between 30 and 87 then clutch should activate if wire to clutch is OK, and ground wire on clutch is OK

Ill give this a try thanks again Ron.