Progress pics:

 

Got everything squared away besides starter. Engine will try to crank over when jumped, but won't do anything when I try to start the truck with the key. Trying to figure out which wire I'm missing to make the starter engage.

 

In the stock 2002 Ranger, PATS disables the starter until the correct set of conditions is met. This is done via the 2002 PCM which controls ground to the starter relay located in the underhood box. If you have not already done so, you must ground that wire for the key to operate the starter using a 5.0 Ex PCM.

On my swap, I cut the orange/black wire from pin 19 of the 5.0 PCM connector, added a ring terminal to the engine harness side of the OR/BK and then grounded it to the firewall lug next to the PCM. Easy.

 

Thank you Bob!
I did all the wiring based on this guide from win:

Legend:

C110 = original Ranger 3.0 harness 42 pin connector
C115 = Explorer 5.0 42 pin connector
C1078 = A/C high pressure switch, C139 is C1078's path to ground (below brake master cylinder)
C1006 = A/C compressor relay



A/C Compressor control:
Loop C110 pin 37 to C110 Pin 35. Route C139 pin 5 or C1078 pin 1 to C115 pin 37 and to C1006 pin 6. Remove F1.25 10a fuse and then swap the relay pins from normally closed to normally open. It's probably easier to replace the A/C relay and "pig-tail" the new relay to both the C139 mod and the N0/NC swap.


Tachometer:
Move wire in slot 8 on the 10 wire plug to slot 16 on the 16 slot plug at back of instrument cluster

Starter:
Route C110 pin 28 to Ground, leave C115 pin 28 disconnected

Alternator (likely only 1 of three changes need to be made):
Route C110 Pin 41 to alternator excite terminal (only if C110 has the alternator wire)
Route C110 Pin 42 to alternator always on (only if C110 has the alternator wire)
Route C115 Pin 42 to ground -- gotta do this one regardless of the alternator wires)

VSS ground:
Route C115 pin 13 to ground
Leave C110 pin 13 open

I'll check the OR/BK again.

 

The above step should have accomplished the same thing electrically although at a different location. If you did it that way, be sure that the harness side of the dark blue/orange (coming from the underhood distribution box) is the end that was removed from pin 28 of the Ranger C110 and grounded. The orange/black wire from pin 28 of the Ex C115 to the PCM was originally for the optional Explorer air suspension and should remain disconnected from the Ranger harness and disconnected from ground..

Second idea: IF your truck originally had a manual transmission, you would need to jump the clutch switch connector when converting to automatic. Automatic to automatic swap does not require this step.

 

Oh didn't know there was 2 ways to do this. lol
Crap, alright let me see what I can find.

 

Basically, you need to ground the DB/OR coming from the starter relay in the Distribution Box to make the Ex starter work in a 01~06 Ranger with a 5.0 Ex PCM. Either of the two methods above should have accomplished the same thing.

 

Appreciate you stoppin' in Bob. This my first time ever doing an engine swap so I'm still a noob at this but learning a lot in the process. I'll try that tonight after work and update the thread with my findings!

So closeee....

 

Got the wiring all figured out. Thanks Bob and everyone else.

Next and last problem is timing. Can't seem to get TDC on the camshaft sync, won't fire up just massive backfires. I went and got the tool from autozone today so I don't have to guess. Hoping this work so I can post up the startup video.

 

Getting close!!

 

Even with the tool, the cam sensor can be set 180 degrees out. Be sure to set the crank to Cylinder 1 TDC compression stroke (not exhaust stroke), then time using the tool. Check that you got the correct tool - 96~98 is different from 99~01. Not interchangeable.

 

Thanks Bob.

Problem is I can't see the mark on the crank anymore for TDC now that it's installed and belt is on. I wish I would have marked it before I installed it. Anyway to know the crank is at TDC after it's already installed with the belt on?

 

Are you using the Explorer crank pulley/damper? IIRC, it should have a degree scale that you can read with the belt on. A little chalk or paint can help highlight the marks.

If not, you can check this thread or search the forum. Lots of good 5.0 info here.

Camshaft Position Sensor replacement--a bit of discussion - Ford Explorer and Ranger Forums "Serious Explorations"®

 

If you need it, here's a good graphic for the wire positions on the coil packs:
Ford Explorer and Ranger Forums "Serious Explorations"® - View Single Post - 5.0 V8 Firing Order Diagram [Inside]

 

Thanks Bob, I got the wiring diagram from alldatadiy but I will compare it with your link as well.

I had to order a 28oz balancer from damper dudes because of the stroker kit I installed. It does have the marks on it I remember when I pulled it out of the box but I didn't highlight/chalk them up like I should have. Now that the belt is on I can't really see **** lol

 

My friends, she's alive.

347 stroker first startup.

 

Sounds beast when you're on it!

 

Thanks man.
Anybody ever use the Summit Racing® 2-Chamber Performance Mufflers SUM-638222?

I was just going to do straight pipe back to these guys. Seem cheap and should do the job.

 

SWEET!!!!!!!

I build mine as a daily driver so I installed more muffler than most. Usually don't miss the lack of rumble, but every now and then, a growl or two would be nice!

 

Thanks for all your help win, Bob, and Justin. Super stoked to get it running.

 

Sounds awesome!

 

Thanks everyone!
Getting exhausted done today or tomorrow then off to the tune shop.

Still need to get the fan shroud installed.

 

 

Installed some new **** today.

 

Update:
New exhaust and dust caps installed. Ready for tune shop