Results of plug change on the ol' Black Beast - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 03-10-2010
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Results of plug change on the ol' Black Beast

I finally broke down and got the stupid import loving NGK Type R plugs out of my 5.0 and put in some new Autolite Platinums. The NGK's all had burn marks on the ceramic near the electrode, so I guess they were too "hot" for the engine. Of course it could also have something to do with my complete lack of O2 sensors and the air/fuel ration being off, but I'm going to fix that as soon as I figure out how to use the existing wiring and original O2 sensors properly (only two upstream, all four, or only two down stream?).

Running without O2 sensors didn't feel any different than running with all 4 O2's connected and zip-tied to the frame, but I'm sure that created a lean condition.

Any ideas on which O2's I am supposed to use to get the ECU to determine A/F ratio correctly without Catalytic converters in place. I speculate the rear or down stream O2 sensors simply confirm function of the catalytic converter and don't effect timing or a/f. Is this correct?
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Old 03-10-2010
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I guess while I wait for a reply I will go take some pics to spice this thread up a bit...
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Old 03-10-2010
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Passenger's side. No I didn't remove the air box, coolant/washer tanks just for access, but it sure made this process MUCH EASIER! I am in the middle of eliminating A/C altogether. I've got the compressor off and shorter belt on, no condenser or accumulator, no hoses or anything....just gotta cover that big hole in the firewall with a blower motor! The stock air box is not easy to "modify" for these purposes.
I also had a leak at the manifold where the bell connector is, so I had a good shot at tightening that guy up and have a clean sounding idle now!
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The driver's side was nearly impossible to reach from up top thanks to fuel lines, brake lines, brake booster assembly, and so forth. It was much easier to remove the inner fender well with 6 bolts and a few screws. Here you can clearly see all 4 plugs, and I honestly used every extension...about 2' (yes...24 inches) to remove and install the plugs on this side, which brought the wrench all the way about past the tire and fender, giving me maximum room to turn the wrench. I used a little more anti-seize on the new plugs because the old were very hard to break free until I got the extension thing figured out!
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Extensions, anyone?
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The only plug that required a universal joint was the 3rd one on the driver's side, thanks to the steering arm. This was also a good chance to check and tighten any crucial bolts like the steering arm and others.
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And finally, the bird's eye view of the Beast.
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Old 03-10-2010
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you should run all 4 o2s to keep the CEL off with MIL eliminators in the downstream ones
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Old 03-10-2010
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I cannot for the life of me find those MIL eliminators, or O2 simulators. I heard today from my exhaust guy they're not legal in the US so you have to buy them somewhere overseas!

And are you saying
put all 4 o2's in even though I have no CATS?
or put two UP STREAM o2's in and two MIL's in the rear connectors?

Keep in mind I have a true-dual set up all the way to the rear, with no crossover anywhere, so location is important as well, I assume?
Both banks run to the passenger side individually, without connecting together but in stock location.
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Dump at rear with two Flow 40's.
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Last edited by Needforspeed3685; 03-10-2010 at 10:55 PM.
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Old 03-10-2010
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you will still need to use the rear sensors because the MIL eliminators go inline with them...ill get you a link for them...hold
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Old 03-10-2010
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Old 03-10-2010
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Oh I can totally make those without spending $20 at Radio Shack! Thanks for the links!
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Old 03-11-2010
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put the front ones pretty close to the collector and the rears anywhere in range of where the wiring will reach
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Old 03-11-2010
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you only need the front 2 for A/F mixture.. the rear 2 do not have any input. they only monitor if the cat is working. and since you dont have cats. you would be wasitng money on 2 extra 02 sensors and mil eliminators.
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Old 03-11-2010
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if they are not plugged in you will get a code for them, if you have a code for them you will not go into closed loop
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Old 03-11-2010
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tru. thats why im just having mine cut off in the ECM =]
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Old 03-11-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlw20lu View Post
tru. thats why im just having mine cut off in the ECM =]
BamaChips???
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Old 03-29-2010
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The tracking on the plugs could be poor ceramics/insulation or poor connections at the wire and the top of the plug.
Make sure the connectors are tight and the boot is snug, also some silicone grease on the inside of the boot can help but not too much.
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Old 03-29-2010
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Why didn't you install a crossover pipe? Just curious. Because of the way the 5.0 fires, you really should have one.
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Old 03-30-2010
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Originally Posted by dbp02 View Post
Why didn't you install a crossover pipe? Just curious. Because of the way the 5.0 fires, you really should have one.
I've realized that now. I smashed the stock crossover (with first set of cats) during tear-down of the explorer, then later regretted the move. The whole undercarriage makes it hard to do.
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  #17  
Old 03-31-2010
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Just have use an h-pipe. pretty much the same difference. And if I were you, since you have to have all 4 sensors anyways, I would just try to run it with the sensor and no eliminator to see if it will run correctly w/o them before you spend the money. The reason I say that is b/c I have seen some run just fine if not better than vehicles with eliminators with just no cats and sensors
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  #18  
Old 03-31-2010
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If you can get the pipes out, you can put an H on the existing pipes in about 10 minutes with a cutting wheel and a welder....then clamp them back in place. I would say do it in the vehicle, but you couldn't weld the top too good.
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Old 04-26-2010
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those exhaust pipes at the manifolds are waaay too close to the firewall
you should invest in some high heat insulation for the exhaust pipes
and should have your manifolds ceramic coated

that high heat will eventually melt a hole right through your firewall
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