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  #1  
Old 08-07-2017
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steering box

Ok, so I'm going to change my rack n pinion setup to a steering box with pitman arm and all that good old stuff...best way to get steering shaft away from motor to install my shorty headers. any advice would be appreciated, u can even tell me I'm nuts but I'm just wondering if I should or could use an older like 79 or so f150 box..mounted on left outside rail. any ideas would help
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  #2  
Old 08-07-2017
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Is a ranger box not a good idea?
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Old 08-12-2017
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First off please include in your signature specifics about your Ranger the year what cab it has what transmission if it is 2wd or 4wd etc and what modifications you have made.

Many of your questions are not getting answered by the people that may have the answer for you because they have no clue what your working on.

You have been on a few forums with questions about your shorty headers, Solid axle swap etc.

At this point we have no idea what in the heck your have, if you own a ranger that drives or if this is a work in progress project.

Any modification you can dream of within reason can be done, the only limitation is your imagination, budget, skills, shop equipment, tools and space to do said modifications.

Is this truck a daily driver?

Is the truck currently on the road?

Post recent pictures of your Ranger make sure to include pictures of your frame rail where you intend on trying to mount a gear box.

I seriously doubt a conversion from a rack to a gear box is possible and have it come out with the correct steering geometry.

I am not sure why you are choosing to go this route rather than doing what most people do when trying to get around headers which is using u joints and a shaft bearing.

My thought is if you have a running and driving truck with a 5.0 and some sort of exhaust on it, why mess around with headers?

I think in one of your previous threads you mentioned you had something loose or worn with the original rag joint setup.

If this is the only problem why not fix that issue instead of creating more work for yourself for little to no benefit that shorty headers will provide.
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Old 08-12-2017
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Ok, the truck is a 98 ext cab 4x4 with 3 in body lift, 4 in susp lift, aftermarket keyways give it 2 more in front..about 9 inches of lift in front...a 97 mountaineer 5.0, the tranny and transfer from donor..70 4rw is the tranny I think..its efi. had the stock manifolds on it and took glasspacks off after a year or so..i put flowmaster 44s and took cats off because I thought they were getting blocked up. I also put an h pipe which gave it a nice deep sound. the guy that talked me into the 5.0 swap..it had a 3.0 auto in it. he said I should put headers on it for more power...some say u get maybe 15 more hp , some say u get more noise..i guess its opinion? I found a set of mustang shorty headers online for not much $ so I figured id give them a try. I'm not going to change steering system..im putting a u joint at end of upper shaft, lower shaft and put a shaft in between with a brace to go around driver header. to make the pipes work I have to lift motor about 1/2 inch..the front differential support bracket on left frame rail is about 2 inches below the header and cant get to pipe without lifting the motor. its not a daily driver, some say it wont pass pa state emission test? I do have a way around the mileage but I just got an itch to have headers on it..never had them on any vehicle before. the truck runs pretty decent but I guess I wanted to see what the headers would do for it. it has cold air intake..the 5.0 is stock but I did regasket it b4 it went in..it had 140,000 miles on it. new timing chain also. it wasn't a plug n play but only maybe 8 or so wires and all sensor work...im not real good at getting photos on here sorry
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Old 08-12-2017
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Oops....the tires are 33x12.50x15s
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Old 08-13-2017
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Headers

Well my stubborn *** spent the weekend lifting my 5.0 about 1/2 inch for clearance for the headers. Next step is the steering, which I'm planning to add 2 double u joints between upper and lower part of steering...the lower I'm getting another intermediate shaft so I can shorten it to make angle better. A brace and collar bearing to support setup. I made a short pipe the will be welded to bottom of left header , I had to remove bolt flange due to how tight space is. Same on right side but no bracket to hav to go around. Will hav to put egr bung in pass header and get longer tube to reach. Then scuff both headers and put high heat paint on.
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Old 08-13-2017
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Ok, u get to say I told ya so...after I got motor lifted I put manifolds back on since it will take some time to get the parts together for steering, plus getting headers ready. well I took her for a drive and she ran fine on a sort trip around block. I took her out on the road a bit further and when she gets to a higher gear and I hit the gas to get her going she bucks a little and pops at times. I'm thinking the popping might be a tiny leak at exhaust manifold gasket being as its worn some and I didn't change it but maybe not? she idles nice and smooth and runs ok at low speeds. she was giving me issues at beginning of july but they seemed to work themselves out. then I worked on her and she is running a lil off...one good thing is the next time headers go on they should be staying on..so hopefully she can get used to them and run ok?
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Old 08-13-2017
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Headers

Can anyone tell me which side of exhaust manifold gasket faces out...lol , I can't remember
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  #9  
Old 08-14-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rangerbill61 View Post
Can anyone tell me which side of exhaust manifold gasket faces out...lol , I can't remember

Which Side is Up? | Technical Bulletins | Fel-Pro Gaskets
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  #10  
Old 08-14-2017
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Gaskets

Thanks for posting that, it tells me I've got them both backward..oops..it says the flat smoth side should face out, the composite side should be in, mine r not...thanks again...
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  #11  
Old 08-15-2017
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Ok, the headers r ready to go to muffler shop to have the pipes I cut welded to them so the exhaust can slide on and be clamped..like slick fit headers. next up is the steering shaft adjustment...my biggest question is how much movement I need in the lower shaft for telescoping..I'm going to take hopefully 2 inches off shaft, drill hole in it and have dd shaft in it going to first u joint. then a short shaft and another u joint which will connect to upper shaft. a collar bearing holding the shaft in the middle going down to frame. if this works I'm in business. it occurred to me I need new wires for shorty spark plugs for headers.
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  #12  
Old 08-16-2017
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Headers

Was wondering if anyone has lifted their 5.0 for header clearance or other reasons and how high they went?
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  #13  
Old 08-17-2017
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Why not build your own headers?

Even if your not good at welding, Anyone with a little practice could spot weld.

It seems to me that with all the modifications you have done to your truck a cheap harbor freight mig and some basic tools you could end up with great flowing well designed headers for your application.

Once you get your headers mocked up send them out for finish welding and thermal coating.

Or just purchase headers that are known to work with your setup?


I would advise against raising the engine, you will end up causing more problems than you think.

A few side effects I can think of is pinion angle, transmission tunnel clearance, making the truck more top heavy.
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  #14  
Old 08-17-2017
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I hear you on some of wat ur saying, the running issue was 2 cracked spark plugs, both on driver side...lesson being..if ur gonna test fit headers take plugs out. I took her for a spin and she ran great til I got almost home then she started to chug some..lol, the rear pass side plug wire fell off..thats a first. anyway, I did consider advance adaptor slick fit headers..the driver side headers the pipe goes almost straight down unlike the one I have which goes on a somewat 45 degree angle which points it toward the front diff support bracket which is part of why I lifted motor, for clearance. a mechanic at work said he feels its ok as long as the tranny doesn't hit under truck which it doesn't with bodylift. he said to drive it some and see how it goes...feel for vibrations and so forth. even if I get the other headers id still have to modify steering shaft..thats the issue I'm most weary of. but I was nervous about pulling the 3.0 and putting 5.0 in and that turned out good. I appreciate ur input
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Old 08-18-2017
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I drove the truck to work today and she ran pretty good. I'm looking at the steering stuff to figure how to do it. I have one single u joint and 2 double u joints. had I gotten 2 singles I could have put something together to see how it might work. the doubles are 5 inches long and I don't think I have the distance to use them? even if I cut 2 inches off lower shaft I don't think ill have the space?
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  #16  
Old 08-19-2017
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Steering

So I cut the used lower steering shaft by 2 inches then cut the inside part so I can hav it an inch from bottom and have an inch of play. I put a double u joint on with a short piece of dd shaft..then had a single at top...not enough space for both. I ordered another sinless and will try setup next week.
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  #17  
Old 08-19-2017
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Steering

Lol, I ordered another single u joint...if it all works I have to get a piece of pipe with correct thread for egr pipe. It's 1/2 inch but thread is hard to find.
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  #18  
Old 08-19-2017
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Steering

Was wondering what u think on the steering shaft mod. When I called bores on to ask a question their guy said he feels the setup needs the telescoping shaft even if it's shortened. Hot rod site said it's a safety feature for collision when the shaft is a straight line from bottom to steering wheel but if u change direction with u joints it isn't really necasary the shaft will collapse within itself in a wreck?
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  #19  
Old 08-19-2017
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Steering

I called borgeson
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  #20  
Old 08-20-2017
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Lets see you have a Highly modified 4x4 truck.

This truck has a heavy Ford explorer V8 in it.

The engine is raised up higher than normal ( how much higher has yet to be disclosed )

The truck has at least a body lift and possibly a suspension lift and over sized tires.

This truck probably has incorrect pinion angles

To top if off you have a modified steering shaft.

What could possibly go wrong? LOL

The time to ask about safety would have been during the planning stage of this project.

I would tend to agree with you about the change of direction except you really do not know what will happen to your frame and steering shaft in
a wreck.

I am no safety engineer, but many of the modifications you have chosen to do I would not have done. ( only because I am much older than I used to be LOL )

Yet when I was younger and felt invincible I am 100 percent positive I made much worse mechanical design decisions than you would even consider.

One of the worse decisions I made was on a 1988 Ford Ranger that I stuffed a Chevy 350 in, to clear my exhaust I modified my steering shaft but it needed to be welded to complete the modification, I had my friend do the welding since I had 0 experience welding.

Needless to say I did not even know enough to recognize a poor weld.

I was very lucky the weld let loose when trying to turn a corner from a dead stop.

Had I been on the interstate it could have ended very badly for me and any poor bastard around me.

Experiences like this will always cause me to be more cautious about modifications.

I have a feeling it does not matter what anyone tells you or suggests, your going to go down the path you have chosen come hell or high water.

If this is the case own your decisions and embrace the consequences , I just hope that the modifications you have chosen to make or will make in the future will not cause harm to others.

And I also hope if you ever sell your truck, that you point out any of the questionable modifications to the potential buyer.
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Old 08-20-2017
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Steering

Yes I agree there is a safety issue when u make changes to any vehicle u will drive on the street. Off road not so much but even then there is safety. I have listed all my mods but here goes...3 in body lift, 4 in super lift suspensign lift plus aftermarket keyway for 2 extra inches. 33x12.50 tires. 97 mountaineer 5.0 with 70rw tranny and awd transfer. Engine currently sits 9/16 inches higher via steel plates that hav holes drilled and motor mnt bolts go thru them. The steering will have 2 u joints, a collar bearing on a metal brace. The truck will never be sold..I have too much money in it and if by chance I did I'd definetly show the buyer all changes. I hav considered buying slick fit headers that might allow engine to not b lifted but I'm sure I'd still hav to change steering.
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  #22  
Old 08-20-2017
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Steering

And I'm not a young guy either...I'm 56 years but not old
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  #23  
Old 08-20-2017
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Steering

I just realised u must think the steering is done. No, the steering is in the planning and testing stage. I put the used lower shaft on yesterday after cutting the end by about 2 inches, the inner shaft also. I put a double u joint on it and a single at top but the setup is to long and I need a single on bottom for the two to connect. Once I get it together with a brace I can test it. If I'm not happy with results I'll not do it. If it binds it's a no go
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  #24  
Old 08-20-2017
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Steering

When u say pinion angle r u talking about the u joint on drives haft or something else
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  #25  
Old 08-21-2017
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LOL I would have bet money that I was trying to help a young whipper snapper .


Pinion Angle Measurement
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