5.0 5 speed?
#1
5.0 5 speed?
it seems like all the expo 5.0 swaps are all auto's...i have a 1998 3.0 5 speed...from what i understand i would need a 1996-1997.5 expo 5.0 to get stuff from? so if i were to do it would i have to swap over to an auto...if so could i do like a floor shifter like a b&m or something? or would i have to get an auto column? thanks
#5
There are some really nice floor shifter out there for the 4R70W that alot of the mustang guys are running that would give you the control of a manual. Like justin said you can bolt up a M5OD, but the wiring is a different story, i'm not sure how that would work with the computer, neutral safety, clutch safety switch.....?
#6
On the other end, the stock Ranger BW1354 T-case will not bolt to the R2 and there are no aftermarket adapters available. A BW1356, 4406 or 4407 from a full size Ford PU is a direct bolt up to the R2 but requires custom driveshaft lengths.
#7
There are some really nice floor shifter out there for the 4R70W that alot of the mustang guys are running that would give you the control of a manual. Like justin said you can bolt up a M5OD, but the wiring is a different story, i'm not sure how that would work with the computer, neutral safety, clutch safety switch.....?
Could it be possible to 'confuse' the PCM to think it's a manual...like TrePaul86's auto to manual swap on his '01? Then flash the PCM to think it's like a stang or manual F150 or something?
#9
Downey, the trans would physically bolt up to the engine, but the older F-150 Man trans have the shifter in a different spot I believe. It may also be physically longer or larger. The best option for a manual in a ranger is the M5OD-R2. It is basically the same trans as the Ranger 5 speed, but has the 5.0/4.2 (small block) bolt pattern.
You could most likely has the PCM reflashed to not look for the auto behind it. Then you could either remove the trans wiring from the harness, or just leave it unplugged. I believe the neutral safety switch just needs to be grounded for the engine to start and run, but that may also only allow the engine to rev to 3,000 RPM, which is bad. Nonetheless, if you were to remove the auto trans wiring, you would want to leave the speed sensor wiring intact.
You could most likely has the PCM reflashed to not look for the auto behind it. Then you could either remove the trans wiring from the harness, or just leave it unplugged. I believe the neutral safety switch just needs to be grounded for the engine to start and run, but that may also only allow the engine to rev to 3,000 RPM, which is bad. Nonetheless, if you were to remove the auto trans wiring, you would want to leave the speed sensor wiring intact.
#10
#12
you might have to make one. I only would think that because the only reason the ranger and explorer ones mount the same is because its the same platform. So if the trany is from an f-150 it will probably be moved back a little more maybe. But it would be a good idea to make a nice beefy one anyways, i'm going to remake mine in tube when i sas.
#14
Downey, the trans would physically bolt up to the engine, but the older F-150 Man trans have the shifter in a different spot I believe. It may also be physically longer or larger. The best option for a manual in a ranger is the M5OD-R2. It is basically the same trans as the Ranger 5 speed, but has the 5.0/4.2 (small block) bolt pattern.
You could most likely has the PCM reflashed to not look for the auto behind it. Then you could either remove the trans wiring from the harness, or just leave it unplugged. I believe the neutral safety switch just needs to be grounded for the engine to start and run, but that may also only allow the engine to rev to 3,000 RPM, which is bad. Nonetheless, if you were to remove the auto trans wiring, you would want to leave the speed sensor wiring intact.
You could most likely has the PCM reflashed to not look for the auto behind it. Then you could either remove the trans wiring from the harness, or just leave it unplugged. I believe the neutral safety switch just needs to be grounded for the engine to start and run, but that may also only allow the engine to rev to 3,000 RPM, which is bad. Nonetheless, if you were to remove the auto trans wiring, you would want to leave the speed sensor wiring intact.
you might have to make one. I only would think that because the only reason the ranger and explorer ones mount the same is because its the same platform. So if the trany is from an f-150 it will probably be moved back a little more maybe. But it would be a good idea to make a nice beefy one anyways, i'm going to remake mine in tube when i sas.
i think it would be ok with the shifter back a little further i wish i could see some pictures of one in a ranger
#15
The 96 and earlier 4.9/5.0 F150 manual trans would put the shifter a few inches forward - closer to the dash than the factory Ranger position. The 97~03 4.2 manual trans puts it in almost exactly the same location as the stock Ranger trans. Both transmissions are the Mazda M5OD-R2.
#17
The 96 and earlier 4.9/5.0 F150 manual trans would put the shifter a few inches forward - closer to the dash than the factory Ranger position. The 97~03 4.2 manual trans puts it in almost exactly the same location as the stock Ranger trans. Both transmissions are the Mazda M5OD-R2.
As far as the cross member goes, I bet the stock ranger one would work b/c the trans is, again, basically the same one as the Ranger 5 speed. You keep bringing up running an F-150 trans and t-case, well, thats exactly what you would be doing. You just need to run the 97+ 4.2 tans b/c of the shifter location and the fact that the 4.6/5.4 modular engines use a different bolt pattern and will not bolt up to the 5.0 block.
It doesn't have to be as complicated as you are making this! Lol.
#20
Running a manual with the stock automatic calibration in the Ex PCM will cause a CEL with multiple codes. A custom tune would take care of that.
Last edited by V8 Level II; 09-28-2009 at 07:59 PM.
#21
The transmission will bolt up to the Ranger crossmember but it jacks the rear of the trans up about 1~2" higher - not good for driveshaft vibes and might cause tunnel clearance problems w/o a body lift. This version of the M5ODR2 is the same length as the 4R70 that comes in the 5.0L Ex.
96-back 4.9/5.0 M5ODR2
The extension housing is a different length making this transmission about 1 1/2" longer than the Ex 5.0L 4R70W. I doubt that the mount would bolt up.
#22
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and the M50dr2 is a hydrolic clutch also, new fittings or lines??
"The automatic's P/N starter interlock would need to be jumped to allow the starter to work." could you explain further?
Im going to be doing a custom tuned ECM anyway to eliminate pats and switch over to manual with a few other things too.
"The automatic's P/N starter interlock would need to be jumped to allow the starter to work." could you explain further?
Im going to be doing a custom tuned ECM anyway to eliminate pats and switch over to manual with a few other things too.
#23
The M5ODR2 is said to use the same clutch slave as the Ranger's R1, so it should bolt in and connect no problem.
The automatic is interlocked so the engine can't start in any shift position except neutral or park. To use the Ex 5.0 auto harness in a manual truck, that pair of wires would need to be jumped together to complete the circuit to the starter relay. Color codes vary depending on the year of the Ex donor.
At the clutch switch connector, the automatic Rangers have a jumper and the manuals connect to the switch. The switch provides the clutch/starter interlock and speed control cancel.
The automatic is interlocked so the engine can't start in any shift position except neutral or park. To use the Ex 5.0 auto harness in a manual truck, that pair of wires would need to be jumped together to complete the circuit to the starter relay. Color codes vary depending on the year of the Ex donor.
At the clutch switch connector, the automatic Rangers have a jumper and the manuals connect to the switch. The switch provides the clutch/starter interlock and speed control cancel.
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