Bad Grounds
 

So I tryed using every single bolt in the rear for a ground to my component amp. All produce that feedback, you know when you hit the gas and the tweeters go zzzzZZZZZZ!! My rca's are run on the complete other side of the truck from my power cable and distribution block. I tryed the bolts on the jack rack(not a good ground at all), bolt holes from where my seat was mounted, the frame bolt on the cab mount under the grommet. The frame bolt was the best but not great. Am I going to have to create a ground directly to the frame? If so, how's that gonna happen w/o drilling into the cab? Please help.

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Have you tried using the bolt for the seat belt? I have used that twice in 2 different trucks and havent had any problems.

It's like anything I try to use in the cab. My cb has the same problem. That why I was thinking about grounding directly to the frame and setting up another distribution block. I have two amps and a cb that need a clear ground.

when you did the seat bolt did you grind off the paint down to bare metal under the bolt? if not then try it because ive got my amp grounded there and its fine but if you dont sand down to bare metal it probably wont be that great of a ground

tried the HU ground?

I ran a ground lead directly to the battery. That works best for my ham gear. The frame or body are all poor, noisy grounds.

i used the radio to ground my CB.

prgrade all the body ground to frame and ground from engine to firewall and then reground the components. that will yeild a correction to a bad ground on your vehicle and should fix any problems in the future.

Head unit ground...Do not use the ground coming out of the dash..Create a gound to a good metal connection..Also grind/sand off the paint under/around the connection..Makes a BIG difference...

prgrade??

upgrade

Are there kits or at least a list of where they're all at. Wouldn't be too hard if I had access to a lift, but I don't...

How do you know your amp is introducing the noise? maybe its your HU.
Also the CB interference is radiated noise from the ignition not from the ground
Ask me how I know...

there is one going from the frame to the body on the passenger side of the cab. another from the firewall near the center to the engine block. might wanna upgrade from the battery to the alternator while you are at it. no lift needed not even a jack. just some extensions, a wrench, some wire, crimpers.
http://www.edesignaudio.com/wire_cat.php?catid=48 <<<<check that 35.00 is a decent deal

Well, If you are getting a buzzing noise that gets higher-pitched along with the engine speed, then it would be a ground loop... not just a bad ground.

Go to WalMart and buy a 12.95 (pretty sure) Scosche Ground Loop Isolator. If that doesn't work then it may be a bad electrical ground.

Why not fix the ground loop ..Then you woun't need the stupid Isolater..Fix the problem, don't band aid it..

I drilled a hole in the floorboard (check underneath so you don't hit a fuel line or anything first). Then scraped off all the paint. Used the largest gauge ring terminals I could find and secured my grounds there with a 1/4" bolt. Hit the underside where the bolt came through with plenty of primer to prevent rust, and it was done.

Absolutely no problems with two amps pushing around 1100 watts RMS total.

Ever think your signal wires (RCA's) are the cause, not the power? Just because they aren't near your power lines, they can still have cheap (or no) RF insulation, or the are too close to something behind the dash. Plus judging from the pic, you seem to have lots of wires floating around.

One set of RCA's I just bought last week (JL's) and another pair I've had for about a year(Phoenix Gold's). They are high end RCA's and worked sweet on my pop's home system. They sounded better than the radio shack one's he had. I'm pretty damn sure it's a bad ground. When I went from ground point to ground point, Some sounded better than others. I scratched the paint down and still no luck. So what exactly is a ground loop? and how do I fix it w/o the isolator?