My sub box so far
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RF Veteran
Joined: May 2005
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From: College Station, TX
My sub box so far
Well here are a few shots of the subwoofer box I'm building. It's designed for a 12w3v3 and is 1.25 cu. ft. sealed. I designed it to fit where the driver's side jumpseat is located. The back portion of the box will bolt in using the jumpseat bolt locations and there's a cover for the top part that should cover the bolts and make it more difficult to steal. It's a little hard to describe, but hopefully it'll make sense once I get the rest of the pieces cut and put together! Anyways, onto the pictures!
The box. The gaping hole will be covered by a board, I just haven't cut the 45* cuts yet to make them fit onto the hole.
The back of the box. This part will face the rear wall of the cab and is where the box will bolt to the jumpseat location.
I haven't secured the mounting hole yet
The box. The gaping hole will be covered by a board, I just haven't cut the 45* cuts yet to make them fit onto the hole.
The back of the box. This part will face the rear wall of the cab and is where the box will bolt to the jumpseat location.
I haven't secured the mounting hole yet
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Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Lake Elsinore, Ca.
That would be AWESOME!!
I built both very large boxes with 2 15's in each for my last Truck(F-150) & built a box for my show car using the spare tire space for the enclosure part of the box but I've run out of ideas, especially in this very tight space behind the seats. Are you going to build an amp rack on the other side or where are you stashing your amps?
Thanks
Rick
I built both very large boxes with 2 15's in each for my last Truck(F-150) & built a box for my show car using the spare tire space for the enclosure part of the box but I've run out of ideas, especially in this very tight space behind the seats. Are you going to build an amp rack on the other side or where are you stashing your amps?
Thanks
Rick
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From: College Station, TX
Channing that is season 6 of Friends on the floor actually, haha. And I've got some silicone caulk in the garage. I'm going to get the terminals put in once they get here and secure the bottom mounting hole piece. I'll seal everything up good and then put the slanted piece on and caulk it through the mounting hole.
RHuckster, my sketches are kinda messy but I'll draw up a good one and scan it in for you. I pretty much just built the box using the dimensions I wanted for the airspace and the outer dimensions of the box fell into place by using the 3/4" MDF around the box. I haven't decided on the amps yet, because I have the computer to worry about where to put also. I'm thinking I might build a sort of box that will lay on the floor behind the seat and the amps will be inside the box. I could carpet the box with black so it would look inconspicuous and I could still put my books and bags ontop of it without worrying about my amps getting scratched up. My only worry then is the heat issue with them being in a box of sorts. I could leave one end open perhaps and maybe put some sort of fan or cooling system to keep the amps and computer from overheating. I guess I'm rambling now but that's sort of my plan.
I just found that I had an extra passenger side jumpseat in the garage from my last truck. I think there could be a way to cut the seat mounts off and use the mounting frame of the jumpseat to make a more 'bolt-in' fit for the box.
Imagine the parts circled in red were cut off, and the box bolted to the frame of that. The jumpseat frame would then bolt into the cab snugly and easily. The bolts would still be hidden behind the box. I think I'm going to look more into it.
RHuckster, my sketches are kinda messy but I'll draw up a good one and scan it in for you. I pretty much just built the box using the dimensions I wanted for the airspace and the outer dimensions of the box fell into place by using the 3/4" MDF around the box. I haven't decided on the amps yet, because I have the computer to worry about where to put also. I'm thinking I might build a sort of box that will lay on the floor behind the seat and the amps will be inside the box. I could carpet the box with black so it would look inconspicuous and I could still put my books and bags ontop of it without worrying about my amps getting scratched up. My only worry then is the heat issue with them being in a box of sorts. I could leave one end open perhaps and maybe put some sort of fan or cooling system to keep the amps and computer from overheating. I guess I'm rambling now but that's sort of my plan.
I just found that I had an extra passenger side jumpseat in the garage from my last truck. I think there could be a way to cut the seat mounts off and use the mounting frame of the jumpseat to make a more 'bolt-in' fit for the box.
Imagine the parts circled in red were cut off, and the box bolted to the frame of that. The jumpseat frame would then bolt into the cab snugly and easily. The bolts would still be hidden behind the box. I think I'm going to look more into it.
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Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Lake Elsinore, Ca.
Cool, I was going to go with a carputer in my show car but I've invested way to much into it already...just what I need, another computer to deal with. I deal with 3 @ home & 14 @ work & thats just in one room. 
Yea, a hole in each side with a fan @ 1 end would help considerably to keep things cooler. Since I'm building or attempting to build a show truck I was considering pulling the jump seats & jack off the rear wall & hanging the amps, cap, etc. on the back wall.
Rick
Yea, a hole in each side with a fan @ 1 end would help considerably to keep things cooler. Since I'm building or attempting to build a show truck I was considering pulling the jump seats & jack off the rear wall & hanging the amps, cap, etc. on the back wall.
Rick
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From: College Station, TX
I'd consider building an amp rack and such on the back wall, but I don't want people to know I've got a system back there. My truck isn't gonna be garaged most of the time. Granted, the crime rate is very low around here and at school, but I don't want to take any chances. If you're looking into my truck through the windows, you'll never know what's inside.
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Originally Posted by KARPE
Bass isn't directional.... 
Nice progress man!
Should sound pretty nice when done.
I've also had some pretty good experience from downfiring boxes...I just don't care for em anymore, I've got more deaf over the years, so I needed something louder
Should sound pretty nice when done.
I've also had some pretty good experience from downfiring boxes...I just don't care for em anymore, I've got more deaf over the years, so I needed something louder
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From: College Station, TX
Aaron the 12W3V3 is the newest version of the W3. 12W3 version 3. Anyways, I listened to a W7 and W6 as well as the new W3. The new W3 is built on the same platform as the W6 and sounds, IMO, better. Not to mention the fact that it's several hundred dollars cheaper!
I don't want huge gigantic make-you-go-deaf bass. I don't listen to my music loud. I want good, clean bass that sounds clear. The down-firing box is ideal for me, and it helps protect the speaker cone also.
I don't want huge gigantic make-you-go-deaf bass. I don't listen to my music loud. I want good, clean bass that sounds clear. The down-firing box is ideal for me, and it helps protect the speaker cone also.
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From: College Station, TX
Ok here are some cleaner drawings of all the parts. Not all of the dimensions are perfect, and it's not to scale, but all my CAD programs have expired licenses so it's the best I got. Remember that it's built with 3/4" MDF so if you want to use 5/8" you'll have to fudge some of the numbers.
This is a side view of the box showing how the hinge works to cover up the bolts to the cab
This is a picture of my drawings on the inside of the box to kind of explain how the slanted piece fits in better. You'll have to cut the 2 45* cuts so the piece fits in, and then cut the corners off there so that the edges of the box are flush. This allows the interior airspace measurements to be correct and still keeps the MDF 3/4" thick all around the enclosure.
This is a side view of the box showing how the hinge works to cover up the bolts to the cab
This is a picture of my drawings on the inside of the box to kind of explain how the slanted piece fits in better. You'll have to cut the 2 45* cuts so the piece fits in, and then cut the corners off there so that the edges of the box are flush. This allows the interior airspace measurements to be correct and still keeps the MDF 3/4" thick all around the enclosure.
