really dont think muffled is the word..how bout pure bass?

 

Okay how about adding 24 8s instead? Another words if you do not want honest opinions dont post it. Im done with this thread.

19 and knows it all

 

im not sayin that i know everythin...


im just not following ur opinion...more subs worse sound......

 

If you dont change your speaker setup (mids and highs) all you are basically gonna hear is bass... Have you ever heard a sub play by it self before? No clarity... What Clay, Ryan and I are sayin is get 2 or 3 instead of 10 or 12... All we are doing is trying to help you out, and save money... or put the money in somthing that makes more sence...

 

http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/caraudio.asp

Perception of sound is subjective to each of us, just as some of us find black cars more appealing than other color cars. If you like your system more than any other in the same vehicle, then you have the best. But, if you like some other system more than yours in the same vehicle, then that one is better. Only you can decide which is best for you. For a car audio system and installation to be a good or great system and installation, it must meet or exceed the user's expectations.

For the best references to compare to your system or any other, experience live music in as many different environments as possible. One of the best ways to accomplish this is to follow several artists that you really like from venue to venue (one environment to another). You'll immediately notice the difference in sound characteristics of each location and with the same artist. You will find some environments that you prefer over others, if not a favorite. This is how we would like our systems to sound.

Unfortunately as many of us know, this really is not possible, especially within the confines of an automobile. After only being in a few vehicles our ears recognize the inherent characteristics of this unique environment. Most of what we hear in a vehicle from a system is a recording of the original artist in a given enviroment, usually in two channel stereo, now playing in a totaly different environment with the listeners placed in awkward listening positions relative to the placement of speakers. But we can create great sounding systems with the understanding of acoustics, basic electronics, and the products we have to choose from.

Acoustics (the study of sound) is worth a whole new site of it's own. I will write a condensed version when I'm finished with the many sections I've already started. These include a glossary of terms, passive crossovers & calculators, impedance calculators, component wiring, enclosures, and other installation tips and necessities.

Taken from the above link




another excerpt

Car Audio: Sub Woofer Enclosures
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxes.asp

The enclosure is equally as important as the woofer and should be designed for use with the particular woofer you have chosen.

Deciding which enclosure(s) and woofer(s) are best for you can be a task all of it's own, but size constraints of the vehicle, knowledge of Theile - Small parameters, and understanding the inherent sound characteristics of different enclosure designs will help you decide.

All enclosures should be constructed of at least 5/8'' - 1'' MDF (medium density fiberboard) or material of comparable rigidity or better. Bracing (not shown) should be used throughout the enclosures as needed to prevent any loss of energy due to flexing. For you SPL competitors, I repeat...bracing should be used throughout the enclosures.... Flexing = lost output. With all enclosures, lining the walls with a damping material (fiberglass batting, polyfill, tar based spray, etc.) is recommended to reduce high frequency resonances.

Often the total order of the system is confused with the order of the enclosure. The diagrams shown throughout this section refer only to the order of the enclosure (and are not to scale). The order of the crossover will add to the total order of the system.

There are many types and variations of woofer enclosures. The following information is intended to provide you with a basic understanding of enclosure types and their respective characteristics, design possibilities, and to help you decide which enclosure may work best for you and/or your customers.

For an in depth resource on building subwoofer enclosures, including formulas, diagrams, projects, and addditional resources, the12volt.com highly recommends you visit Brian Steele's The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1.

 

new 05 Alpine components... for highs..

 

So... are you actually going to go into competions or is this for ****s

 

comps when they got some around town and daily driver...

 

the point is, that ur its not an "opinion"...ur saying that its a fact that more subs=sounds bad...which is NOT true

RE REs are not SPL subs, they sound really good as i have 2...but in a well build enclusure 10 subs can sound just as good and clear as say 2 or 3 subs...24 8s would sound awesome...its more of a shock factor, and CAN sound really good

 

...they arent' SQ subs either.. but anyway, he likes them, he wants to do it, to each their own, good luck with it, hope he gets what he expects out of it all.. and make sure to get some pics of the install!

 

btw.. will the wall be ported at all? do you have a solid rear window.. just curious.. trying to picture this thing in my head..

 

But isnt it kinda pointless to have 12 subs hooked into 1 amp when you can put 2 really nice 12's and it will probably sound the same?

 

2 would cost more money....if i can get it with one then get it with one..

i have a slidin rear window..

if i go with 2 15s it will be ported..12 10s sealed

 

yes, and no.. he's going for shock value, which he'll get when anyone see's a wall of subs.. everyone has their own wants, so from here on, i really wanna be kept up to date with the install and see the final results.. later down the road, if he wants more power, he could always add another amp

 

oh, so its kinda like a wing on a honda accord?














lol j/k had to do it

 

NEVER SAY THAT AGAIN...lol

mine will be doing somethin other then just sittin there

 

 

actually the REs are more SQ oriented, but they do get fairly loud

 

oriented yes, but after listening to them, id go with something else if i were wanting SQ

 

like wat?

 

Hell i think im crazy for getting one Orion H2 or a RE XXX 12 inch which are 2500watts max and 2000 watts max

 

More power to ya......i cant wait to see it when its done.

 

Evan, you're a hoss! If you pull this off or just something even close, I'd love you! Well not really "love" you, but it'd be bad ***!

Brenton

 

lol..ill do it brenton..and ill come down and show yah one day

 

Being an MECP certified mobile installer and from an installer standpoint its dumb unless you wanna use your car just for db drags and thats it. I had a customer about 2 1/2 years ago bring in 3 15's audiobahns (garbage) and this massive audiobahn amp which blew. It was pretty loud dont get me wrong and now hes lost of his hearing. Ive hooked up 2 type R's with a MRD-601 and in a eclipse which was an older model hatch and the mirror wouldnt even stay straight and you couldnt even hear it and he had his speakers amped with our 500 dollar alpine 4 channel. From someone who works with this stuff everyday rethink your options i think you would be happy with a w7