Subwoofer Problem, maybe major.
#1
Subwoofer Problem, maybe major.
Ok, so..
Recently I have discovered that my sub is making a rattling noise. It never used to do this, it used to hit very hard, so hard in fact that it used to shake your hair.
So about 5 days ago I noticed that it wasn't hitting as hard anymore and it was sounding like crap. so I thought that there was something loose, such as a door panel or whatever else. Nothing, its comming from the sub.
So I was wondeirng if anyone else has run into this problem or heard of it? Wondering if this sub is blown or not. Just want to ask before I start tearing this whole thing apart.
Oh yea if I turn the amp down some it sounds better agian, but it won't hit as hard.
My setup is as follows: A ported box with the 12" AW1200Q With a 8002T All Audiobahn. The Amp is mounted on the side of the box
Thanks. :D
Recently I have discovered that my sub is making a rattling noise. It never used to do this, it used to hit very hard, so hard in fact that it used to shake your hair.
So about 5 days ago I noticed that it wasn't hitting as hard anymore and it was sounding like crap. so I thought that there was something loose, such as a door panel or whatever else. Nothing, its comming from the sub.
So I was wondeirng if anyone else has run into this problem or heard of it? Wondering if this sub is blown or not. Just want to ask before I start tearing this whole thing apart.
Oh yea if I turn the amp down some it sounds better agian, but it won't hit as hard.
My setup is as follows: A ported box with the 12" AW1200Q With a 8002T All Audiobahn. The Amp is mounted on the side of the box
Thanks. :D
#2
I think it's the subwoofer, but just to be sure:
Look for leaks in the box, or around the gasket that seals the subwoofer to the box. Then inspect the surround & Cone for any obvious damage. A easy test is to lick your finger and "feel" for any air leaks. If that looks OK, then move the cone up and down by hand. It should have a natural resistance to movement (even more so if you have a sealed enclosure) and should quickly spring back into location.
If you still see nothing out of the ordinary, take the woofer out and smell the coil. Notice anything resembling a burnt smell? See any wires or wrappings that look a little melted?
Ported enclosures are generally harder on a subwoofer, because that port allows air to escape from the box. You gain a few dB's in SPL but you lose air suspension that helps the woofer handle more power without damage.
Look for leaks in the box, or around the gasket that seals the subwoofer to the box. Then inspect the surround & Cone for any obvious damage. A easy test is to lick your finger and "feel" for any air leaks. If that looks OK, then move the cone up and down by hand. It should have a natural resistance to movement (even more so if you have a sealed enclosure) and should quickly spring back into location.
If you still see nothing out of the ordinary, take the woofer out and smell the coil. Notice anything resembling a burnt smell? See any wires or wrappings that look a little melted?
Ported enclosures are generally harder on a subwoofer, because that port allows air to escape from the box. You gain a few dB's in SPL but you lose air suspension that helps the woofer handle more power without damage.
Last edited by Mnemonic; 01-11-2005 at 02:23 PM.
#3
#5
#6
Actually your subwoofer is 700 Watts RMS dual voice coil, and your amplifier puts out ~800 watts RMS @ 4 ohms. That's not so bad because we have basically the exact same subwoofer, and I'm putting around ~950 watts RMS (per my Amp's birth sheet) to mine. The difference is that I have a sealed box, and yours is ported, so apples to apples, my sub can handle more power.
Only downside to a sealed box is that coil is more prone to overheating, because there is no ventilation (unless you install basket out)
Only downside to a sealed box is that coil is more prone to overheating, because there is no ventilation (unless you install basket out)
#9
Alright, the more I look at this thing the more I see I need to revamp my setup.
So I was wondering if anyone had pictures of their enclosures, and if they had made them themselves or if they bought them.
Because the box that I bought was def. not made to go into a ranger and now my passenger seat won't go all the way back. lol. but I can't use a normal truck box because the sub is too long.
So I was wondering if anyone had pictures of their enclosures, and if they had made them themselves or if they bought them.
Because the box that I bought was def. not made to go into a ranger and now my passenger seat won't go all the way back. lol. but I can't use a normal truck box because the sub is too long.
#11
Check my cardomain site for pics of my box, and a few measurements.
I called the audiobahn help line once, and they said 1.25 is optimum size for our sub, in a sealed enclosure.
TippinOvr, just cooling and looks, and a different design options. In terms of sound? Nothing, except you may have to reverse the polarity of the speaker wire, or use a internal function on your head unit to "reverse" the low frequency so overall it's in phase with the rest of the system.
I called the audiobahn help line once, and they said 1.25 is optimum size for our sub, in a sealed enclosure.
TippinOvr, just cooling and looks, and a different design options. In terms of sound? Nothing, except you may have to reverse the polarity of the speaker wire, or use a internal function on your head unit to "reverse" the low frequency so overall it's in phase with the rest of the system.
#12
The box is the right size for the sub I made sure for that. If anything I was afriad it was going to be too small.
What I am looking at though is that when I bought this amp I took about 2 weeks to look over everything and research everything that I needed in an amp ect. and I came down to the Audiobahn A8000T and the A8002T. Now that I am looking at the specs ect. I wanted to get the 8000, but I must of had a brain fart when I was ordering and I bought the 8002 and that amp can't handle 2ohm loads, and that's what I am running it at. So I am wondering if that is the problem as well.
And well, if that's the case than I am just going to get another sub with enclosure. But, I don't want the same thing to happen to my seat if I put a 2nd sub in the cab. (It not being able to go back) Thats why I was asking for enclosure ideas.
What I am looking at though is that when I bought this amp I took about 2 weeks to look over everything and research everything that I needed in an amp ect. and I came down to the Audiobahn A8000T and the A8002T. Now that I am looking at the specs ect. I wanted to get the 8000, but I must of had a brain fart when I was ordering and I bought the 8002 and that amp can't handle 2ohm loads, and that's what I am running it at. So I am wondering if that is the problem as well.
And well, if that's the case than I am just going to get another sub with enclosure. But, I don't want the same thing to happen to my seat if I put a 2nd sub in the cab. (It not being able to go back) Thats why I was asking for enclosure ideas.
#14
#15
#16
#17
I think there are some designed to fit the small spaces in regular cabs, but supercabs can use just about any standard box they are a bit harder to find.
I found one design here, but it appears to take up all the floorspace, not sure about seats still being usable.
http://www.velocityaudiocenter.com/F...94,c50564.html
I found one design here, but it appears to take up all the floorspace, not sure about seats still being usable.
http://www.velocityaudiocenter.com/F...94,c50564.html
Last edited by Mnemonic; 01-16-2005 at 12:57 AM. Reason: edited for clairification
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