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Old 11-20-2008
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sound system help

hey guys i have been searchin for a while about sound systems i want to get a new headunit for sure but idk if should get a sub or new speakers. I like listening to rock mostly but will occationally bump some rap so what do you guys recomend sub or new speakers i dont want a ton of bass but i would like more than the stock system has
im trying to do this on a budget so sone advice would be great
thanks Jordan
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Old 11-20-2008
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I have some Pioneer door and rear speakers with a 12" sub running at about 300 watts. I also listen to mostly rock and this setup sounds good. I will upgrade later down the road.
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Old 11-20-2008
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First off, www.onlinecarstereo.com I got all my stuff from there and there way cheaper than anyone else. I would just get like a new pioneer head unit, then sum high and mids from that website i told you, then get like one kicker cvr 10", thats not too much bass and its clean sounding; and amps are really cheap at that website too. So jus get it alll for under $300
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Old 11-20-2008
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ok so get a head unit amps and a sub because my stock speakers still work fine just no the best
i can build just about anything with wood so any one got ideas for a custom box that allows me to have my seat all the way back (im 6'1") and at least use on jumpseat whil still having room in the back also the more hiddden the better btw ihave a supercab
any pics would be great
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Old 11-20-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRacer View Post
First off, www.onlinecarstereo.com I got all my stuff from there and there way cheaper than anyone else. I would just get like a new pioneer head unit, then sum high and mids from that website i told you, then get like one kicker cvr 10", thats not too much bass and its clean sounding; and amps are really cheap at that website too. So jus get it alll for under $300
Theres no way you can get all that for under 300 without getting terrible components.
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Old 11-20-2008
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so if i get this head unit
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...er/DEH-P3000IB
and this sub
http://www.kicker.com/06/kicker_home.html
what amp woud go well with this set up
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Old 11-20-2008
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Originally Posted by 04blackedge View Post
Theres no way you can get all that for under 300 without getting terrible components.
You can't? come listen to my system and tell me that again. you'd be very suprised how much other websites rip you off on pricing. this place is probably still ripping you off but there way cheaper than any other place. My Bass system has 2400 watts and i got it all for under $400. he only needs like 6-800 watts. he can do it under $300
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Old 11-20-2008
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thats about what i was planning on spendin 2-300 but i might try and get some used stuff as well
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Old 11-20-2008
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well i just priced you sum stuff and i forgot that you wanted new door speakers so yeah, you are prolly gunna spend more than $300.
Here ya go:

Cdplayer:
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=18737
Woofer:
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=17399
6x9:
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=17489
amp:
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=19164
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Old 11-20-2008
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Exactly what I said. You could do it for a little over 300. Its a great site to get stuff, I've ordered from there before, your just not going to get a full system for under 300.
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Old 11-20-2008
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i decided i dont need door speakers so i will replace them when the stock ones are blown
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Old 11-20-2008
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wow thats pretty cheap $277 with out the speaker plus whatever wiring etc.
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Old 11-20-2008
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Don't forget a box for the sub, carpet for the box, screws, glue, wiring, etc...
This stuff gets really expensive really fast. I couldn't believe how fast I spent a grand (and that ordering online, too)

It sounds like you’re trying to do this quick and easy and cheap. With that in mind, I'd skip the 6x9 speakers for the doors and grab a set of 5x7 or 6x8 in speakers. They fit the doors without and modification. Unbolt the stockers and bolt in the new ones. Done. No cutting.

Also, look at the RMS power rating on amps and headunits. IMO, max rating are useless. That amp listed is a 2ch amp, and to run that sub, you'd need to bridge the amp (combine ch 1&2).

Luckily that sub has dual 2ohm voice coils, and it could be wired to a single 4ohm load, which would be fine since the lowest that amp could do is 4ohms bridged.

Then you look at the power rating it says bridged (600w). RMS would be more like 300w, and even then I have my doubts if it even pushes that (there's no CEA rating or birth sheet mentioned meaning no guarantees on the wattage).

The Kicker sub says it's rated for up to 400w, and even if that amp did 300w, the sub would still be underpowered by a good bit.

I have always found my speakers, no matter if they were subs, components, or coaxials to sound best when the wattages were matches or even slightly exceeded.

I'm not trying to bust anyone's ***** here at all. You have to start somewhere. I made the mistake of buying cheap amps several times and regretted it soon (and later when I wanted to upgrade). I'd cheap out on the subs before I'd go cheap on an amp (IMO).

If you've got $300 to spend, buy a nice head unit. Or an amp and maybe a sub.

Keep us updated on how the audio build goes.
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Old 11-21-2008
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thanks for the help i didnt know all that technical stuff but
my dad knows about most install suff but he hasnt done any installs in a while but i have most of the supplies to build the box
but it sounds like it will be a little more than 300 so ill have to wait till after the body lift and tires go on and i get some more money
any pics of custom boxes would be great i need some ideas
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Old 11-21-2008
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ight i got you some of mine.



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  #16  
Old 11-23-2008
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System14.jpg?t=1227481710

System13.jpg?t=1227481795

I don't have any pics of this set-up from the side, but I can assure you that the seat will go back all the way and recline a good way back. Granted, it won't go as far back as the passenger side, but it will go farther back than I can comfortably drive, and I'm about 6' tall.
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  #17  
Old 11-24-2008
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If only getting one sub, just put it behind the passenger seat and then you can go as far back as you want!
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Old 11-30-2008
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then i have to listen to passengers b!tch about the vibrations in their seat so i wan to mount it in the center and possibly down firing as to equall out the bass throughout the cab
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Old 12-02-2008
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ok so i think i got all this stuff figured out and might get some of it for christmas so i can spend a lil more $$$
if i get this HU
http://www.circuitcity.com/ccd/produ...y+Viewed+Items
and this sub
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=17399
will this amp be suitable for the application
http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Sony-...oductDetail.do
will they work out together without bridging channels and whatnot
it would be great if someone could help me out because i am somewhat clueless when it comes to this stuff

thanks Jordan
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Old 12-03-2008
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Let me see if I can help out a little...
The specs on the amp don't look right from the link you posted. One line says it's a two channel, another line says it's a 4 channel. The rms power ratings don't look quite right either. So here goes.


The amp you picked out is a 2 channel amplifier.
Ideally, each channel would drive one speaker, giving you "stereo" mode.
Example: Channel 1 goes to left front speaker, channel 2 goes to right front speaker.


BUT, you want to power a subwoofer with that amp.
This is possible, BUT you would need to "BRIDGE" the 2 channels into 1 "Mono" channel.
This is usually done by wiring the (+) lead of the sub to channel 1 (+) ,and then wiring the (-) lead of the sub to channel 2 (-). Doing this almost doubles the power output of a single channel. For example, that amp says 125w per channel, so bridging would give you ~200w to your sub. Does that make sense?


You also have to take into consideration impedance loads (ohms).
Look again at the specs on that amp. It will do 125w per channel at 4ohms.
Usually, the lower the ohm load, the more power an amplifier will produce. Notice how the power output goes up if you drop to a 2ohm load.


BUT, remember you would have to bridge that amp to power the sub you selected.
Here's a good rule of thumb- amps that are cheap will usually only be 4ohm stable when bridged. Sorry, but that amp is kinda cheap. No offense. You only have one wiring choice.

SO, you will have to wire that sub to a 4ohm load.


How did I just do that?
Well, the sub you selected has two voice coils. (It's kind of like 2 speakers in one... kinda) Each voice coil has an impedance of 2ohms. If you wire the voice coils in parallel, you present a final load to the amplifier of 1ohm. (Parallel means (+) to (+), (-) to (-). )That amp would instantly go into protect mode. It might fry if you tried it.

The way you would have to wire the voice coils would have to be in series. (Series means (+) to (-).) By wiring in this manner, you present a final load to the amplifier of 4ohms. This is acceptable for that amp.


Still with me?
Check out the Woofer Wiring Wizard at the Rockford Fosgate site for help wiring. CLICKY!




I think you're off to a pretty good start here. Personally, I'd look for a mono subwoofer amplifier so you could have more options wiring subs up. I also believe that while that amp could push that sub, id be nowhere near strong enough to drive it to its full potential. That sub has an RMS rating of 400w. You'd only be giving it ~50% of what it could do. I think you'd be disappointed in about 2 weeks.

Check very carefully about that amp. I'm pretty sure it's bridgeable, but make sure before you drop any coin on it.

I hope I was able to help you out. Maybe some other member will chime in.

Last edited by seminaryranger; 12-03-2008 at 01:35 AM.
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Old 12-03-2008
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thank you very much for the much needed help i will have to do a little more research
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Old 12-04-2008
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would i be better off running a milti channel amp or a mono???
if i use a multi channel amp can i hook up the sub to one ch or two bridged ch
then run the door speakers off of the leftover ch
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Old 12-04-2008
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never mind what i just said ive changed my plans again and now only want to run 1 8in sub for both space and $$$ saving
so with this sub
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=17402
and this amp
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=19645
all this would be wired up with a 2ohm load on the amp things should work out then the door speakers run off of the head unit power???
please correct me if im wrong
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  #24  
Old 12-04-2008
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I like my prepowered sub. It is all built in on box, just wire it up and mount it and you are good to go. It is enough bass for me for sure, and they can be had for a little over $150.

https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=75719
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