Started with the SecondSkin - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Audio & Video Tech General discussion of audio and video for the Ford Ranger.

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  #1  
Old 10-04-2006
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Started with the SecondSkin

I only had time to do the passenger side door today. I did the outer and inner door skin, and I used about 8-10 sq. ft. to do it. It took me about 2 hours from the first screw I removed from the door panel to the last screw I used to replace the door panel.

The door now sounds REALLY solid if you tap on it or shut it. It was very obvious the improvement it made even with only one door done in the sound that the speakers put out. The bass was deeper, richer, and more "boomy" and the sound was more clear on the passenger side vs. the driver's side.

All in all, it was a very easy product to apply and I'm VERY satisfied with the results so far! I can't wait to get my entire cab covered in this stuff!

I've got some pictures, but I'm too tired to upload and post them now. Look for them tomorrow afternoon or so. There's not a whole lot to look at anyways.
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Old 10-04-2006
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ehem...

i refuse to read Kyle till there is pics lol
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Old 10-04-2006
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thats like the dnaymate junk...
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  #4  
Old 10-04-2006
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actually, it is not like dynamat that much, being that it is a higher quality, and a fraction of the price. dynamat is way overpriced for what you get and their adheasion properties are pretty different as well.
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  #5  
Old 10-04-2006
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Where did you buy this "second skin" from?
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  #6  
Old 10-04-2006
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Definetly worth it! Mine is so solid now. I don't hear much when the windows are closed and radio off. Also, if you hit the door, it's a distinct low note of THUMP, not the rattle high pitch like before.
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  #7  
Old 10-04-2006
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Sounds good Kyle, I need to do my back door on the driver side. My sub fires right at it.
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  #8  
Old 10-04-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redneckstone
ehem...

i refuse to read Kyle till there is pics lol
yea man where are the pics. sounds like it was fairly easy
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  #9  
Old 10-04-2006
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how hard was it to get the stuff on the inner door skins??? did you have to stick it all thru the many fist sized holes in the door, or what?

i wish i had money to spend right now
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Old 10-04-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strider0O0
i wish i had money to spend right now

same here. would love to have that stuff in my truck.
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  #11  
Old 10-04-2006
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Rudy and I did the same thing with eDead. It's fairly easy to put on the inner door skins.
I love it, the deadening is absolutely amazing from stock.
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  #12  
Old 10-04-2006
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Getting it through the inner door skins isn't the EASIEST thing I've ever done, but it was pretty straight forward. I'm not a huge guy, but I didn't have much problem getting through the large hole for the window mechanism and the small speaker hole.

One thing I learned was to be careful with where I'm sticking my hands. There are some sharp ends in the raw metal in the doors, and the aluminum covering of the stuff can get some sharp edges as well.

Ricky you are right the sound difference is amazing! It sounds almost like solid plastic rather than hollow metal if I tap on the door. I think I'll try to get a video up showing the difference if I have time today.

The inside door skin is all spotchy because I didn't want to cover up any vital holes I needed in order to get to the window stuff or to put the door panel back on. The dust shield covers it prett well so it looks alright.

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You can find secondskin at www.secondskinaudio.com and you can read about its performance vs. other sound deadening mats at www.sounddeadenershowdown.com for those of you who haven't heard of it.
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  #13  
Old 10-04-2006
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nice... so, so far.. about 8-10 sq. ft. per door.

keep track of what everything takes and let us know. i'd love to do this once i have some money again.
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  #14  
Old 10-04-2006
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I'll do the best I can. I picked up a small seam roller at home depot and that helped out alot.

I think the total cost for all 120 sq. ft. i bought was about $250-300. I'll have to look it up.
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  #15  
Old 10-04-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearhead61
I think the total cost for all 120 sq. ft. i bought was about $250-300. I'll have to look it up.
yeah... i was just going to ask about that... i see on their site that they have a few different lines of mat... which did you end up getting?

i wonder if the difference between the 65 mil and 80 mil is worth it.
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  #16  
Old 10-04-2006
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Hey kyle, I don't mean to be a ***** when I say this. But your going to have to deaden that door better.

Do it more like this



See how it is one WHOLE sheet, I just used the stock plastic thing as a template. I wouldn't trust only having those little sheets lapped over each other.

It still will work really good, but for optimum performance, I would try to keep it to 1 sheet and layer the ENTIRE door. Just like I did. Also, taht pic is only 1/2 done. But it makes a HUGE difference when you do one whole sheet as opposed to little pieces. It's a PITA, but worth it!
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  #17  
Old 10-04-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrpro130
I would try to keep it to 1 sheet and layer the ENTIRE door.
after doing the inner skin, that's how i plan on doing mine. that way the speaker has a better "barrier," so to speak, when in the door.
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  #18  
Old 10-04-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rideac1
Rudy and I did the same thing with eDead. It's fairly easy to put on the inner door skins.
I love it, the deadening is absolutely amazing from stock.

did you use the paint that edead sells?
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  #19  
Old 10-04-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zabeard
did you use the paint that edead sells?
Joe painted something on the roof and something on the floor. I believe the stuff on the floor was of his own concoction tho. His truck is quiet. The difference in the roof is simply amazing compared to the tin can my truck sounds like in the rain. I think the stuff he used on the roof was Edead tho. I'm sure he will set it straight when he gets back.
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  #20  
Old 10-04-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadyluke
Joe painted something on the roof and something on the floor. I believe the stuff on the floor was of his own concoction tho. His truck is quiet. The difference in the roof is simply amazing compared to the tin can my truck sounds like in the rain. I think the stuff he used on the roof was Edead tho. I'm sure he will set it straight when he gets back.

this???

http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/index.php?cPath=24
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  #21  
Old 10-04-2006
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I used the eDead V1se^2 sheet on the doors, and the V3 on the roof, and made my own stuff on the floor. I actually posted pics to the Elemental Designs site of the roof:

http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/userinstall.php?id=46

The liquid is amazing. It's easy to apply (with a paintbrush), it's almost a paste consistency but in a latex paint.
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  #22  
Old 10-04-2006
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s oyour really liked the paint huh? ive been wanting to buy some for my truck.
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  #23  
Old 10-04-2006
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I got the damplifier... I couldn't justify the cost of the damp. pro since i've never used it and I don't know anyone who has that I could sit in their vehicle to see the difference.

Ricky I understand what you're saying, and I thought about doing it like that initially also, but if my window motor ever breaks or I need to do anything back there I have no way of getting it done. It may not be the absolute best, but it's better than it was. If you've got a way you can service your window how you've got it deadened right now then please let me know and I'll try something else, but I'm just doing what I can with what I have right now.
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  #24  
Old 10-04-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearhead61
I got the damplifier... I couldn't justify the cost of the damp. pro since i've never used it and I don't know anyone who has that I could sit in their vehicle to see the difference.
i'll probably get the same then. deadening is better than no deadening, so i'll just get the reg. stuff too. i don't want to pay so much more for something i probably wont notice the difference in.
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  #25  
Old 10-04-2006
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Couldnt you make some type of panel to cover the opening required to service the window? And when done just replace that panel? Maybe use some type of clip fastner to hold the panel in place. Just an idea not sure how good it would work.
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