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Audio & Video Tech General discussion of audio and video for the Ford Ranger.

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  #26  
Old 10-04-2006
alexlindeman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rideac1
I used the eDead V1se^2 sheet on the doors, and the V3 on the roof, and made my own stuff on the floor. I actually posted pics to the Elemental Designs site of the roof:

http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/userinstall.php?id=46

The liquid is amazing. It's easy to apply (with a paintbrush), it's almost a paste consistency but in a latex paint.

Hello Guys. My name is Alex, and I work for Elemental Designs. I just wanted to drop in and say hi.

First of all. Ide like to say that the sounddeadenershowdown.com is a little out of date. We no longer sell the V1 and SE that was used in the test. We have moved from an asphalt deadener to a 100% butyl deadener. Not only us, but a few other companies have changed their products. Something to consider while viewing the page.

So our V1 became V1^2 and SE became SE^2. and both are now a butyl mass layer. Which have a higher temperature threshold and stick better to the vehicle.

Then there is the V3 liquid based sound deadener. The V3 is a very thick latex based paint. It prevents sound transfer and resonance by adding weight to the panel. Its a very effective way to deaden roof, and inner doors. Its alot easier to put a small paint brush into a door than a chunk of mat deadener.

We also offer a forum discount that takes us from already the most cost effective sound deadener on the market, to "holy **** thats cheap" costs at under a dollar a sq foot with the V1^2.

If you guys are interested in the forum discount pricing and getting involved, let me know.


Alex
[email protected]
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  #27  
Old 10-04-2006
Strider0O0's Avatar
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nice... so... price-wise, is the paint on stuff cheaper to buy?
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  #28  
Old 10-04-2006
alexlindeman
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Normal price its $50 a gallon which covers about 50ft^2. So about a dollar a foot. The same cost as our V1^2
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  #29  
Old 10-04-2006
quest51210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrpro130
Hey kyle, I don't mean to be a ***** when I say this. But your going to have to deaden that door better.

Do it more like this



See how it is one WHOLE sheet, I just used the stock plastic thing as a template. I wouldn't trust only having those little sheets lapped over each other.

It still will work really good, but for optimum performance, I would try to keep it to 1 sheet and layer the ENTIRE door. Just like I did. Also, taht pic is only 1/2 done. But it makes a HUGE difference when you do one whole sheet as opposed to little pieces. It's a PITA, but worth it!
great effort but power windows are a biatch if they ever fail. i dont feel like going out in the south texas heat to take pics, but if you lay an entire sheet of mat and trim out the holes with a knife, then take 1/4" mdf and trace the holes with approximately 1/4" over hang and secure the MDF to the door with screws it would make an enclosure for the doors which would provide better midbass. another issue is standing waves in a door. to solve this take some "egg crate" foam, treat it with a water resistant spray, and glue it to the door skin behind the speaker it would greatly enhance the movement of the wave and reduce cancellation. just some tricks of the trade. i tell you guys i have 25-30sqft and the methods above and my CDT's on a cheapie 150rmsx2 amp they sound like i have a sub in the vehicle and i am only running the comps since i dont have time to do the system with my mustang on the list now.
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  #30  
Old 10-04-2006
Strider0O0's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexlindeman
Normal price its $50 a gallon which covers about 50ft^2. So about a dollar a foot. The same cost as our V1^2
would one layer of that stuff be sufficient? i'm just trying to figure out square footage wise how many gallons our trucks would probably need (i figure the floor, roof, back wall, and inner skins of the doors)
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  #31  
Old 10-04-2006
alexlindeman
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any deadener is more effective in multiple layers over one layer, or one thick layer. With the V3 we recommend 2-3 thinner layers.

When all done, it works out to be about 50sq ft.

With your vehicle i would guess that 2 gallons should be enough to do the whole vehicle.

We also offer the v3 in black or blue.

The blue is easy for working with in the door, it allows you to see the color when working in a dark spot.

Here are a couple video links with how to apply the deadening products:
Mat deadener:
http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/ele...dv1install.php
Liquid deadener:
http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/ele...adv3_video.php
V4- Teklite Upper Frequency spectrum mat:
http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/ele...dv4install.php


And lastly a very unscientific temperature test for the ^2 products Vs. an asphalt deadener:

http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/ele...heat_video.php
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  #32  
Old 10-04-2006
quest51210
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yep, but i know where you guys buy your deadener and market it down here under our own name for the locals. someone has to be crazy to pay the ungodly charge you guys ask for.
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  #33  
Old 10-04-2006
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The eDead V3 liquid...I painted 3 layers on the roof, the third being insane thick so that it just about dripped. I used the entire gallon just for the roof, and in my opinion it covered really well, if not a little more than I expected. I did use the caraudio.com forums discount, which I am a member of. With 60sq ft of mat and one gallon of liquid the total was 136$ shipped.
To do the whole vehicle i'd get at least 3 gallons of liquid.
I would say that the cost between the mat and liquid is equal. The liquid is good for contoured stuff, such as the ceiling (check out my pics on the link previously posted), where a mat would contour too much. It would still work but I think that the liquid is a little better there. In the door panels and on the floor and where ever a flat space is, the mat is better, at least easier to apply. They can both be used in any situation if you can handle doing it, and I much recommend their eDead products!

Last edited by rideac1; 10-04-2006 at 10:00 PM.
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  #34  
Old 10-04-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IBLKOUT2
Couldnt you make some type of panel to cover the opening required to service the window? And when done just replace that panel? Maybe use some type of clip fastner to hold the panel in place. Just an idea not sure how good it would work.
That's currently on my to-do list. I just don't happen to have any spare sheet metal hanging around in my apartment. The stuff i used on the inner door panel is only 1 to 1/2 sq. feet, so when the time comes to redo it I can peel it off, or just cover it up and go from there.
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  #35  
Old 10-05-2006
quest51210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearhead61
That's currently on my to-do list. I just don't happen to have any spare sheet metal hanging around in my apartment. The stuff i used on the inner door panel is only 1 to 1/2 sq. feet, so when the time comes to redo it I can peel it off, or just cover it up and go from there.
use 1/4" MDF. did you miss my post above? very informative and very pleasing results. i am giving ya some SQ advice there buddy
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  #36  
Old 10-05-2006
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Oh sorry I must have missed it! I saw the one regarding makinga panel and that's what I'd been thinking. I need some extra MDF to make my amp rack and stuff too. Guess I'll be heading to home depot once I get my truck cleaned out some.

What would you suggest using in order to secure the MDF?
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  #37  
Old 10-05-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quest51210
great effort but power windows are a biatch if they ever fail. i dont feel like going out in the south texas heat to take pics, but if you lay an entire sheet of mat and trim out the holes with a knife, then take 1/4" mdf and trace the holes with approximately 1/4" over hang and secure the MDF to the door with screws it would make an enclosure for the doors which would provide better midbass. another issue is standing waves in a door. to solve this take some "egg crate" foam, treat it with a water resistant spray, and glue it to the door skin behind the speaker it would greatly enhance the movement of the wave and reduce cancellation. just some tricks of the trade. i tell you guys i have 25-30sqft and the methods above and my CDT's on a cheapie 150rmsx2 amp they sound like i have a sub in the vehicle and i am only running the comps since i dont have time to do the system with my mustang on the list now.
Thats awesome! I heard about that before somewhere...maybe on ca.com? Anyways, I was thinking about doing it, b/c I'm going MORE SQ...but I don't know. I'll take pics when she's done
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  #38  
Old 10-05-2006
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umm off topic, but i dont trust ed as far as i could throw my truck if half of the stuff i have read about them is true.

just what i have heard, that it is hit or miss.

car audio.com


not trying to start anything.
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  #39  
Old 10-05-2006
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Well the thread is about secondskin anyways, so I think you're safe. It's an opinion. I think my opinion goes without saying because I'm only going to put what I've read and believe to be the best in my truck. If other people don't think so, that's their deal...
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  #40  
Old 10-05-2006
quest51210
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i honestly would be cool with cutting the MDF to fit the holes with a small overlap and using backstrap to fab a bracket or just straight up matting over it and secure it to the door.
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  #41  
Old 10-06-2006
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backstrap? what is backstrap?

I don't want to mat over it because that still doesn't solve my problem of being able to get to the window mechanisms.

Would some sort of self-tapping screw work alright?
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  #42  
Old 10-06-2006
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Kyle, why not do it the way jrpro130 did and if you ever have a window problem you can cut that cunk out. Or just cut it out now.
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  #43  
Old 10-06-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadyluke
Kyle, why not do it the way jrpro130 did and if you ever have a window problem you can cut that cunk out. Or just cut it out now.
If I do that and then cut it out, then I won't have anything to go back in there. It'll get dust and stuff on the adhesive and that wouldn't be any good. What I put on the door was just leftover stuff I had to finish one sheet. I'm still trying to decide the best course of action, but I will probably end up cutting some MDF and putting something on it to keep water damage off and screwing that to the door.
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  #44  
Old 10-07-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IBLKOUT2
Couldnt you make some type of panel to cover the opening required to service the window? And when done just replace that panel? Maybe use some type of clip fastner to hold the panel in place. Just an idea not sure how good it would work.
prolly what i would do, get some sheet or plastic, and cover it with deadner, and then screw it on, that way you can have the hole covered and then just unscrew it if needed
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  #45  
Old 10-07-2006
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Kyle, definitely let us know how the Texas heat affects the adhesion of the soundmat. Unfortunately we're basically out of summer. I'm just worried about the inner layer releasing and gunking up the window....
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  #46  
Old 10-07-2006
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Why can't you make a panel out of sheet metal putting the bolt faster whatever on the backside of the panel then you can put the bolt on the outside( which you'd see when you remove the door panel), allowing you to unfasten the panel with a thumb screw etc... and then panel can be covered front and back with the fat mat( or whatever you choose to use)
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  #47  
Old 10-08-2006
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Thanks alot for the ideas! I like the thought of the thumb screws... I hadn't thought about those. I guess we will just have to see what I can come up with over the next few weeks!
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