Need some schooling.
#1
Need some schooling.
Just wondering if there is anyone here with an aim/msn that would be willing to teach me a little bit about car audio. I'd like to learn some of the basics that have to do with upgrading from stock to aftermarket equipment. IE ohms, channels, watts, & RMS. As in the future, I'd like to upgrade my set-up to a new head-unit, door speakers, a subwoofer, and an amplifier.
Last edited by Dromlace; 01-09-2010 at 03:30 PM.
#2
No aim/msn won't school you but i will answer some questions for you. I have recently done some upgrades and quite a bit of studying on this subject. this is a good place to ask. instead of a single persons answers that very well could be wrong you also have many others who will fact check for you. that way you dont get bad info and blow your sh' up.
#4
#5
well
ohms is restriction or resistance. how much restriction is between point a to point b. this only applies to electrical circuits.
channels is a division of sound or audio in to separate speakers or sets of speakers...
watts is a measurement of power feeding a speaker or device.
RMS is "root means squared"... typically you want to match the rms rating of the speaker to the rms rating of the amp or exceed it with the amps power. these are the most important numbers to look at when choosing a set of speakers and an amplifier.
a great place to find all of this rudimentary audio info is at crutchfield.com
I was kind of thinking you had an idea of what you wanted to accomplish with your system..
ohms is restriction or resistance. how much restriction is between point a to point b. this only applies to electrical circuits.
channels is a division of sound or audio in to separate speakers or sets of speakers...
watts is a measurement of power feeding a speaker or device.
RMS is "root means squared"... typically you want to match the rms rating of the speaker to the rms rating of the amp or exceed it with the amps power. these are the most important numbers to look at when choosing a set of speakers and an amplifier.
a great place to find all of this rudimentary audio info is at crutchfield.com
I was kind of thinking you had an idea of what you wanted to accomplish with your system..
#6
#7
600 watt RMS at 4 Ohms would work for a 600 watt RMS at 4 ohm or less subwoofer. when you run two 4 ohm subs off of one channel In parallel you cut the resistance in half. you then present a 2 ohm load to the amp. this in most cases will double your output of your amp because it is less restrictive to the amp. so if your amp doubles its power and is split between two 4 ohm subs you will end up with 600w per sub at a 2 ohm resistence on your amp.
If you wire the 4 ohm subs in series then you are doubling the impedance to 8 ohms this is more restrictive and will halve your power output of the amp. In the end you would end up with 300w divided into the two 4 ohm subs which would be 150w per sub.
when you are looking at the specs always look for RMS wattage and Impedence (or Ohms).
If you wire the 4 ohm subs in series then you are doubling the impedance to 8 ohms this is more restrictive and will halve your power output of the amp. In the end you would end up with 300w divided into the two 4 ohm subs which would be 150w per sub.
when you are looking at the specs always look for RMS wattage and Impedence (or Ohms).
#8
I just took measurements in my ranger, in the cold. And I came up with the following measurements, keep in mind these are if you're looking from the front.
Considering the seats are not level, we have two different heights. If you want to have your seats to sit level, you must follow the angle, or go with the smaller number.
*Jump seats in extended cabs are in a crown shape, ie /\, therefore the smaller number is always on the outside.
- Height: 6 1/4in; 7 3/4
- Width: 14in
- Depth: 8in
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Now if I do a single sub set-up, I'm going to remove the jack box, and have a custom box put in it's place.
- Height: 21in
- Width: 15 3/4in
- Depth: 5in (Now this number is if you do not go off the edge)
#9
#10
Well speakers are for vocals and what not, and sub woofer's produce the added bass. Correct?
And the head unit starts it all by receiving the audio by a cd/mp3 player/radio, sends it to the amplifier, which then increases the "signal" we'll call it, and then transfers it over to the speakers/subs that are hooked up to it.. right?
And the head unit starts it all by receiving the audio by a cd/mp3 player/radio, sends it to the amplifier, which then increases the "signal" we'll call it, and then transfers it over to the speakers/subs that are hooked up to it.. right?
#13
Well speakers are for vocals and what not, and sub woofer's produce the added bass. Correct?
And the head unit starts it all by receiving the audio by a cd/mp3 player/radio, sends it to the amplifier, which then increases the "signal" we'll call it, and then transfers it over to the speakers/subs that are hooked up to it.. right?
And the head unit starts it all by receiving the audio by a cd/mp3 player/radio, sends it to the amplifier, which then increases the "signal" we'll call it, and then transfers it over to the speakers/subs that are hooked up to it.. right?
#15
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#21
typically a subs are 4 ohms. if you need to pull a 2 ohm load to pull more power from a amp because you can't afford a better one and don't mine losing a bit of acuracy in the process then look for a 2 ohm.
there is also dual voice coil (DVC) subs too. two separate coils usually two 2 ohm or two 4ohm coils for flexibility in wiring it to your amp.
but I would go with a 4 Ohm sub and a strong amp.
if you are interested in a certain sub/amp combo i can tell you if they will work good together or not.
there is also dual voice coil (DVC) subs too. two separate coils usually two 2 ohm or two 4ohm coils for flexibility in wiring it to your amp.
but I would go with a 4 Ohm sub and a strong amp.
if you are interested in a certain sub/amp combo i can tell you if they will work good together or not.
#22
#24
if you make a custom box for where the jack is you will be running dangerously close to the minimum box volume that that sub requires. according to the meausurments you gave you ended up with .95 cu.ft not encluding the thickness of the meterial its made from or the displacement of the sub itself.
the 10" version would be a better fit. those subs need lots of space to work good.
the 10" version would be a better fit. those subs need lots of space to work good.
#25