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Audio & Video Tech General discussion of audio and video for the Ford Ranger.

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  #26  
Old 05-26-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishy2k8
well ok i was listening to it, adjusted and tuned it some and i def. think it sounds a lot better when its hooked up in parallel rather than series. I think im going to change it back and adjust the amp and try to find a medium between the too... series: sound quality goes down, wont go into safe mode when hard bass hits, parralle: sounds better, but have to keep the amp turned down...
between parrallel and series would u notice an increase in temperature from the amp? or does it just depend how loud you had been playing it?
You can't change the wiring based on the fact that it sounds better. You can either wire it so your amp is putting out a 2ohm load or an 8ohm load.

Since I don't know what amp you have I can't tell you. Can it handle 2ohms? How many watts does it put out at 2ohms?

here are your two wiring options http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftec...1&woofer_imp=4
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  #27  
Old 05-26-2007
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i keep forgetting to look at the model number on the amp, when i do ill post it and try to find the amp specs
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  #28  
Old 05-26-2007
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http://www.caraudiomag.com/testrepor...car_amplifier/
ok that is my amp.. the sony xm-1502sx. again the amp is a 4 ohm + 4 ohm.. does this mean that when i am running it hooked up in parallel that it is running at 0 impedance? the people who wrote that article said that it runs good at 2 ohms or 4 ohms. how should i wire this thing the correct way. with it parallel the amp def. gets hotter but bumps so much harder. i just want my sub to last and not mess anything up really. thanks so much u guys
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  #29  
Old 05-27-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buggman
I've never been a big fan of those 2ohm, 1ohm or 1/2ohm setups. I like running a 4ohm sub off a stereo amp in mono for an easy 4ohm load. No overheating problems, no shutting down, no blown fuses (at least for me).
Try the honest Class D amps. I have a Alpine MRD-M605... I have gone on long trips to Washington state and had the amp on for almost 14hrs straight and this thing didnt break a sweat. It's rated at 600w RMS (assuming 14.4 input) but mine had documentation stating it pushed out 648w RMS. They are good amps... when it's time to upgrade, I suggest you look at them! :)

Quote:
Originally Posted by buggman
BTW: if you want to give your system a good workout, drop in Metallica's ...And Justice For All cd.
Oh, yes... back when Lars would use the double bass drum often. Damn good suggestion!


Quote:
Originally Posted by fishy2k8
http://www.caraudiomag.com/testrepor...car_amplifier/
ok that is my amp.. the sony xm-1502sx. again the amp is a 4 ohm + 4 ohm.. does this mean that when i am running it hooked up in parallel that it is running at 0 impedance? the people who wrote that article said that it runs good at 2 ohms or 4 ohms. how should i wire this thing the correct way. with it parallel the amp def. gets hotter but bumps so much harder. i just want my sub to last and not mess anything up really. thanks so much u guys
Look at what else the website said!
This is not a low impedance amplifier. It runs well at a 2-ohm stereo, or 4-ohm bridged load; however, avoid dropping the impedance below that or you will likely blow fuses like popcorn. Besides, the amp does not make much more power at a lower impedance while it does get a good deal hotter. Run this amp at its rated impedance and it will like you that muchbetter.

Bridged 4 ohms, the XM-1502SX makes plenty of power, 344 watts at a real world 12.6 volts. Driving a big dual 8 ohm voice coil 15-inch sub, we got plenty of output from the amp, but it also had a tendency to blow fuses. With bass CDs and lots of volume, the XM-1502SX would clip hard or just blow its fuse after about ten minutes
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  #30  
Old 05-27-2007
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From the page you referenced:

" ...This is not a low impedance amplifier. It runs well at a 2-ohm stereo, or 4-ohm bridged load; however, avoid dropping the impedance below that or you will likely blow fuses like popcorn. Besides, the amp does not make much more power at a lower impedance while it does get a good deal hotter. Run this amp at its rated impedance and it will like you that much better.

Bridged 4 ohms, the XM-1502SX makes plenty of power, 344 watts at a real world 12.6 volts. Driving a big dual 8 ohm voice coil 15-inch sub, we got plenty of output from the amp, but it also had a tendency to blow fuses. With bass CDs and lots of volume, the XM-1502SX would clip hard or just blow its fuse after about ten minutes... "

If you have only one sub, running parallel with two 4ohm coils it will give you a 2ohm mono load. This IS NOT good for your amp running in mono.

If you have TWO subs, running EACH subs' coils in parallel (two 4ohm coils each sub) with each sub connected to it's own amp channel (one to left & one to right) you will have you a 2ohm stereo load which should be ok IF you're running your amp in stereo.

It might seem odd that an amp can run lower impedance loads in stereo, but not in mono, but when you bridge an amp to mono, you're actually using part of the left channel & part of the right channel to combine their power into a single channel.
(If you had an amp capable of handling low impedance loads, like a Rockford, MTX, Kicker, etc, you probably wouldn't have any issue other than an amp that runs hot or one that blows fuses, but they probably wouldn't shut down every few minutes)

An easy way to figure ohms is 8 + 8 = 4, 4 + 4 = 2, 2 + 2 = 1, 1 + 1 = 1/2...
FuZzY MaTh, I know, but it's ohm's law....

Now, with all that said, you COULD just run one coil to the left channel & one coil to the right channel and this should work just fine. Just make sure to keep the positive & negative correctly wired.
Coil (a) pos to amp right pos, neg to amp right neg, Coil (b) pos to amp left pos, neg to amp left neg.
(don't know why I didn't think of this earlier)

When you run both coils in series to 8ohms mono, your amp isn't seeing what it wants to see in a load, therefore it probably isn't going to perform the way you want. Your amp probably won't get hot or shut down, but it probably sounds muddy or has low output.
When you run both coils in parallel to 2ohms mono, your amp is having a hard time working AT ALL. When it finally can't take it anymore, the thermal protection kicks in & shuts off the amp.

It really wants to see 4ohms mono max or 2ohms stereo max.
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  #31  
Old 05-27-2007
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Look at what else the website said!


You beat me to the punch!!
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  #32  
Old 05-27-2007
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i knew what the website said... i just didnt know how to interpret it into how i should hook it up... im going to try the "coil (a) on the right and coil (b) on the left" thing
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  #33  
Old 06-14-2007
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bringing this back from the dead... i wired each voice coil to a separate channel... but it likes to shut off with hard hits again... this is getting annoying
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  #34  
Old 06-14-2007
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Probably b.c. it is a Sony amp haha. I haven't read the whole thread but Sony sends a sheat of paper that says how to wire. If you dont do it their way then the amp wont like it. Get a new amp.
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  #35  
Old 06-14-2007
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ya thats exactly what i was thinking to do.. because this is just getting really annoying lol
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  #36  
Old 06-24-2007
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ok well i was looking at a baja ha1000 at the flea market.. it was only $100... i was thinking of getting it but i read that the impedence loads are the same as that sony... anyone have this amp? im looking for something that will run a 2 ohm load good. thanks
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  #37  
Old 06-24-2007
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i think im going to be buying the profile baja ha700m, its a mono amp that runs 360w at 2 ohms.. everyone that has is that ive read have said good things about it
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