sub help!
#26
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Originally Posted by fishy2k8
well ok i was listening to it, adjusted and tuned it some and i def. think it sounds a lot better when its hooked up in parallel rather than series. I think im going to change it back and adjust the amp and try to find a medium between the too... series: sound quality goes down, wont go into safe mode when hard bass hits, parralle: sounds better, but have to keep the amp turned down...
between parrallel and series would u notice an increase in temperature from the amp? or does it just depend how loud you had been playing it?
between parrallel and series would u notice an increase in temperature from the amp? or does it just depend how loud you had been playing it?
Since I don't know what amp you have I can't tell you. Can it handle 2ohms? How many watts does it put out at 2ohms?
here are your two wiring options http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftec...1&woofer_imp=4
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http://www.caraudiomag.com/testrepor...car_amplifier/
ok that is my amp.. the sony xm-1502sx. again the amp is a 4 ohm + 4 ohm.. does this mean that when i am running it hooked up in parallel that it is running at 0 impedance? the people who wrote that article said that it runs good at 2 ohms or 4 ohms. how should i wire this thing the correct way. with it parallel the amp def. gets hotter but bumps so much harder. i just want my sub to last and not mess anything up really. thanks so much u guys
ok that is my amp.. the sony xm-1502sx. again the amp is a 4 ohm + 4 ohm.. does this mean that when i am running it hooked up in parallel that it is running at 0 impedance? the people who wrote that article said that it runs good at 2 ohms or 4 ohms. how should i wire this thing the correct way. with it parallel the amp def. gets hotter but bumps so much harder. i just want my sub to last and not mess anything up really. thanks so much u guys
#29
Originally Posted by buggman
I've never been a big fan of those 2ohm, 1ohm or 1/2ohm setups. I like running a 4ohm sub off a stereo amp in mono for an easy 4ohm load. No overheating problems, no shutting down, no blown fuses (at least for me).
Originally Posted by buggman
BTW: if you want to give your system a good workout, drop in Metallica's ...And Justice For All cd.
Originally Posted by fishy2k8
http://www.caraudiomag.com/testrepor...car_amplifier/
ok that is my amp.. the sony xm-1502sx. again the amp is a 4 ohm + 4 ohm.. does this mean that when i am running it hooked up in parallel that it is running at 0 impedance? the people who wrote that article said that it runs good at 2 ohms or 4 ohms. how should i wire this thing the correct way. with it parallel the amp def. gets hotter but bumps so much harder. i just want my sub to last and not mess anything up really. thanks so much u guys
ok that is my amp.. the sony xm-1502sx. again the amp is a 4 ohm + 4 ohm.. does this mean that when i am running it hooked up in parallel that it is running at 0 impedance? the people who wrote that article said that it runs good at 2 ohms or 4 ohms. how should i wire this thing the correct way. with it parallel the amp def. gets hotter but bumps so much harder. i just want my sub to last and not mess anything up really. thanks so much u guys
This is not a low impedance amplifier. It runs well at a 2-ohm stereo, or 4-ohm bridged load; however, avoid dropping the impedance below that or you will likely blow fuses like popcorn. Besides, the amp does not make much more power at a lower impedance while it does get a good deal hotter. Run this amp at its rated impedance and it will like you that muchbetter.
Bridged 4 ohms, the XM-1502SX makes plenty of power, 344 watts at a real world 12.6 volts. Driving a big dual 8 ohm voice coil 15-inch sub, we got plenty of output from the amp, but it also had a tendency to blow fuses. With bass CDs and lots of volume, the XM-1502SX would clip hard or just blow its fuse after about ten minutes
#30
From the page you referenced:
" ...This is not a low impedance amplifier. It runs well at a 2-ohm stereo, or 4-ohm bridged load; however, avoid dropping the impedance below that or you will likely blow fuses like popcorn. Besides, the amp does not make much more power at a lower impedance while it does get a good deal hotter. Run this amp at its rated impedance and it will like you that much better.
Bridged 4 ohms, the XM-1502SX makes plenty of power, 344 watts at a real world 12.6 volts. Driving a big dual 8 ohm voice coil 15-inch sub, we got plenty of output from the amp, but it also had a tendency to blow fuses. With bass CDs and lots of volume, the XM-1502SX would clip hard or just blow its fuse after about ten minutes... "
If you have only one sub, running parallel with two 4ohm coils it will give you a 2ohm mono load. This IS NOT good for your amp running in mono.
If you have TWO subs, running EACH subs' coils in parallel (two 4ohm coils each sub) with each sub connected to it's own amp channel (one to left & one to right) you will have you a 2ohm stereo load which should be ok IF you're running your amp in stereo.
It might seem odd that an amp can run lower impedance loads in stereo, but not in mono, but when you bridge an amp to mono, you're actually using part of the left channel & part of the right channel to combine their power into a single channel.
(If you had an amp capable of handling low impedance loads, like a Rockford, MTX, Kicker, etc, you probably wouldn't have any issue other than an amp that runs hot or one that blows fuses, but they probably wouldn't shut down every few minutes)
An easy way to figure ohms is 8 + 8 = 4, 4 + 4 = 2, 2 + 2 = 1, 1 + 1 = 1/2...
FuZzY MaTh, I know, but it's ohm's law....
Now, with all that said, you COULD just run one coil to the left channel & one coil to the right channel and this should work just fine. Just make sure to keep the positive & negative correctly wired.
Coil (a) pos to amp right pos, neg to amp right neg, Coil (b) pos to amp left pos, neg to amp left neg.
(don't know why I didn't think of this earlier)
When you run both coils in series to 8ohms mono, your amp isn't seeing what it wants to see in a load, therefore it probably isn't going to perform the way you want. Your amp probably won't get hot or shut down, but it probably sounds muddy or has low output.
When you run both coils in parallel to 2ohms mono, your amp is having a hard time working AT ALL. When it finally can't take it anymore, the thermal protection kicks in & shuts off the amp.
It really wants to see 4ohms mono max or 2ohms stereo max.
" ...This is not a low impedance amplifier. It runs well at a 2-ohm stereo, or 4-ohm bridged load; however, avoid dropping the impedance below that or you will likely blow fuses like popcorn. Besides, the amp does not make much more power at a lower impedance while it does get a good deal hotter. Run this amp at its rated impedance and it will like you that much better.
Bridged 4 ohms, the XM-1502SX makes plenty of power, 344 watts at a real world 12.6 volts. Driving a big dual 8 ohm voice coil 15-inch sub, we got plenty of output from the amp, but it also had a tendency to blow fuses. With bass CDs and lots of volume, the XM-1502SX would clip hard or just blow its fuse after about ten minutes... "
If you have only one sub, running parallel with two 4ohm coils it will give you a 2ohm mono load. This IS NOT good for your amp running in mono.
If you have TWO subs, running EACH subs' coils in parallel (two 4ohm coils each sub) with each sub connected to it's own amp channel (one to left & one to right) you will have you a 2ohm stereo load which should be ok IF you're running your amp in stereo.
It might seem odd that an amp can run lower impedance loads in stereo, but not in mono, but when you bridge an amp to mono, you're actually using part of the left channel & part of the right channel to combine their power into a single channel.
(If you had an amp capable of handling low impedance loads, like a Rockford, MTX, Kicker, etc, you probably wouldn't have any issue other than an amp that runs hot or one that blows fuses, but they probably wouldn't shut down every few minutes)
An easy way to figure ohms is 8 + 8 = 4, 4 + 4 = 2, 2 + 2 = 1, 1 + 1 = 1/2...
FuZzY MaTh, I know, but it's ohm's law....
Now, with all that said, you COULD just run one coil to the left channel & one coil to the right channel and this should work just fine. Just make sure to keep the positive & negative correctly wired.
Coil (a) pos to amp right pos, neg to amp right neg, Coil (b) pos to amp left pos, neg to amp left neg.
(don't know why I didn't think of this earlier)
When you run both coils in series to 8ohms mono, your amp isn't seeing what it wants to see in a load, therefore it probably isn't going to perform the way you want. Your amp probably won't get hot or shut down, but it probably sounds muddy or has low output.
When you run both coils in parallel to 2ohms mono, your amp is having a hard time working AT ALL. When it finally can't take it anymore, the thermal protection kicks in & shuts off the amp.
It really wants to see 4ohms mono max or 2ohms stereo max.
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