Subwoofer blowing fuses - Page 2 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #26  
Old 12-18-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abxx49 View Post
...a. If the loudest you listen to your music at on a regular basis is 22/35 with bass @ +3 and treble @ 0 with MX (or any other sound processor) on, use those settings. NEVER turn the headunit above 3/4 of the maximum volume...
sorry but this is incorrect (i realize you did not write it) there are 2 different types of volume controls, amps and pads, generally, the volume control that you use (on the hu for instance) is a pad, this takes an amount of power coming out of an amp, and pads it down, (think of this as putting layers of cloth over a loud speaker, to muffle it...) so when you turn the volume up, on a pad, you are actually turning the pad off, and letting the volume flow freely, this can be turned up to max. without damaging anything, AMP controls though (gain control on an amp, and some volume controls, sound boards, some hu's MAY use this, but i doubt it) actually controls how much power you put INTO the amp, think of this as a gas pedal on a car, the more you pour on, the harder it works, full for a short period of time makes no noticable difference, however, it does wear the amp out, you should never go over 3/4 on a gain control (amp volume) as it overheats the amp at extended intervals, it's like driving your truck, like you stole it, all day long
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  #27  
Old 12-18-2009
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You can believe what you want. But as a long term member of DIYMA, SSA, and SMD, I'm pretty sure the information I posted is correct. Whether or not you, or him, wants to believe it is up to you.

And I'll state for the record that what you just said, makes minimal sense. You apparently didn't read that article fully. Don't bother responding to this, because I'm not arguing with you. Feel free to spread misinformation.

(Go on SSA and post this.)
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  #28  
Old 12-18-2009
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I'm an electronics technition, and used to be a professional dj, you can have as many acronyms of groups you are in, as you want, doesn't mean you have any idea what you are talking about... I'm telling you this is the truth, but if you want to act like you know what's going on, why don't you take you're 3 posts back to those groups who care to hear you talk yourself up
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  #29  
Old 12-18-2009
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BTW, the ground is only supposed to be a maximum of 18" from your amp not your battery.

Also, upgrading you wiring gage would be the first thing to do.

I ran 2 gage for my single 10" Kicker CVR, never EVER heated up or blew fuses.

Next take the advice of these guys weez and RangOH, guys who have first hand experience, not someone who read something online.

How your subs are wired depends heavily on whether they are SVC or DVC, and the resistance of them in relation to the stats of your amp.

RangOH explained this well initally.

It sounds like the main thing you havnt done is upgrade your wiring kit, which if you ask me is where the problem lies. Also I would relocate you ground, based on where you amp is, shorten the ground chord and drill a hole through your cab floor, and put a bolt through it.

Also make sure your connections are properly treated, not by shoving frayed ends onto screws.
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  #30  
Old 12-18-2009
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i'll tell you right now your not running big enough wire. i use 8 gauge to run my one ten and it is only pushed by a 300W RMS amp. it don't care. but i also only have a P2 rockford fosgate sub. your running 2 JL's and a JL amp. the higher you turn the sound the more amperage is drawn. the smaller the wire the hotter it gets the more resistance it gets and then boom the fuse pops. if it was a short it would blow everytime power went through. if it was in the amp it wouldnt blow the inline fuse. i am 98% positive that if you put in 4 gauge wire it will solve your problem
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  #31  
Old 12-20-2009
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the 2 above are completely right, if you do have something wrong with your amp, which is drawing too much power, and thus is the reason your fuse is blowing, the fuse on the amp will blow, when the amp is supplied with enough power to cause problems to the amp, the inline fuse only serves one purpose, that is to protect the wires from overheating and catching fire (and eventually your truck) something you COULD try, although it is not a good idea, and you will do so at your own risk, and want to make it very clear, is that i am not recommending you to do it, only saying that it can be done. and that is to run a stronger fuse for testing purposes only (what i said about the fuse protecting your wires from overheating comes into play here) to see if that solves the problem, if it is supposed to be say.... 10 amp fuse, and you put in a 30, and it still blows, you have a major problem with your amp
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  #32  
Old 12-20-2009
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i just know that my buddy had the same problem w/ 2 subs and an amp using 8 gauge then switched to 4 gauge and it's fine. seems to me thats the best choice to try next.
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  #33  
Old 12-20-2009
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I actually did try using a 100 amp fuse a few weeks ago (the wiring kit came with 60 amp) and it did still blow. Before it blew, my radio head lost power and the truck stalled when I restarted the truck it was blown. So you think the problem is with the amp?
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  #34  
Old 12-20-2009
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dude, you have 2 first names... that sucks

what kind of truck is it you are driving? so we know what we are dealing with, first off

put the proper fuse in, turn your amp gain down to next to nothing (your sub will be almost off) and see if the fuse blows, if it does, it's your amp for sure, if it doesn't, it might be anything
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  #35  
Old 12-21-2009
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My name isn't actually Ricky Bobby (rickey bobby is from the movie taladega nights)

I drive a 2002 Ranger Xlt 4.0 V6 4x4 5 speed
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  #36  
Old 12-21-2009
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i realize where it is from "the guy has 2 first names" was a quote from the movie (larry dennit jr)

reason i ask what your truck is, is so i know if it's an alternator problem, do you have any problems with your charging system in general? lights flickering and such
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  #37  
Old 12-21-2009
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I have never had any problems with lights flickering or the battery charging.
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  #38  
Old 12-25-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cd123 View Post
I have never had any problems with lights flickering or the battery charging.
Did you try a new ground yet?
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  #39  
Old 12-25-2009
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i don't mean spesifically from your sub hitting, i mean in general, i know in my mustang, at an idle, my headlights would dim, and then as soon as i brought it up over 1000 rpm, they came back
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  #40  
Old 12-26-2009
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I rewired it today with 4 guage power and ground wires and as it turns out the old power wire was the problem. When I was taking it off i noticed a section of wire that had been completly melted and it was all black so I am assuming that was the problem. So far its working fine and it sounds great. Thanks for all the help.
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  #41  
Old 12-27-2009
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maybe... why was it getting hot though, could be because the amp is the problem, could be because the wires weren't big enough, your fuse was blowing to make sure that your wires didn't get past that point, i guarantee that!

my ex's brother's car had a wire burn through when we were driving one day, not fun! he used speaker wire for the power... not a wise choice...
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  #42  
Old 12-29-2009
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When we first wired it we couldn't find a way through the wall between the engine and the cab so we went under it and the wire was next to the exhaust manifold which I'm assuming is what melted it.
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  #43  
Old 12-29-2009
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your lucky your truck didn't burn down... i put mine through the rubber boot around the steering column, poke a hole with a screwdriver...
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  #44  
Old 12-31-2009
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Yea thats what I did this time.
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