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  #1  
Old 07-03-2010
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System

What would be the best system to go in a single cab ranger for around 250 dollars? I was thinking of something like a kicker cvr 10 or 12.
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Old 07-03-2010
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Do you already have an aftermarket headunit? Already have aftermarket door speakers?
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Old 07-03-2010
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I have a 10" kicker c and a kenwood 1000 watt max amp and its more than enough for a single cab
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Old 07-03-2010
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Yeah i have a kenwood hu and I dont need aftermarket door speakers since i have tweeters and i was gonna put aftermarket speakers later own
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Old 07-03-2010
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I'd go for a slim mount 10" on about 600 watts if I were you. A Kicker slim mount 10" is like $90 and a mono amp for it would be like $150 or so depending on what you get.
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Old 07-03-2010
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Do you recommend soundstorm amps?
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Old 07-03-2010
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Never heard of them. When it comes to amps, don't cheap out. Spend the extra money.
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Old 07-03-2010
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What about crunch?
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Old 07-03-2010
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I've heard some ok things about them. If you really want to learn about some good amps and whatnot, register on caraudio.com. The people over there are pretty helpfull and have a lot of knowledge.
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Old 07-03-2010
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ok thanks maybe they will help me out?
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Old 07-03-2010
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They'll help you out a lot more than I can when it comes to finding the right amp for the right price. They'll know what's good and what's not.
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Old 07-03-2010
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Crunch is garbage, def. Don't cheap out best cheap I've found is power acoustik
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Old 07-03-2010
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Originally Posted by evilclown312 View Post
Crunch is garbage, def. Don't cheap out best cheap I've found is power acoustik
There's way better out there than Power Acoustik.
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Old 07-03-2010
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Yeh but idk bout for the price, I'm going off of what I have personally used also
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Old 07-03-2010
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Old 07-04-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilclown312 View Post
Crunch is garbage, def. Don't cheap out best cheap I've found is power acoustik
crunch aint too bad, but power acoustik is garbage!

look at MB Quartz, and phoenix gold. they make decent stuff. but depending on ur needs, get SUNDOWN


CA.com ftw
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Old 07-04-2010
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I have a Pheonix Gold 4 channel in my 77. I love it
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  #18  
Old 07-04-2010
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I might get a planet audio amp. They seem to be good.
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Old 07-04-2010
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I would by all means avoid anything by soundstorm, i had the misfortune of having one in my very first car, it gave me nothing but problems, crunch is also no bueno, iv never heard a good sounding system with crunch behind it, its always distorted and garbled, i know a lot of people have a lot of mixed opinions about power acoustik by no means are they a top of the shelf brands but for bang for the buck they are one of the best inexpensive brands iv came across, just dont honestly believe any "3000" watt amplifier you get for 200 bucks is going to have an actual output near that.

I even had this earthquake 3000 watt amp that, realistically had about an 800 watt output but it was somewhere in the neighborhood of 180 bucks or so, i cant find the model so it may have been discontinued but it was pushing the setup below for quite sometime (4 arc audio kar-12's / 250wrms each), at least until i had the finds to upgrade to matching equipment.

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You have plenty of options bruh, just keep your eyes open and listen to as any different things as you have the opportunity to.
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  #20  
Old 07-04-2010
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old school; Boss, Soundstream, Crunch, Planet Audio amps were VERY good back in the 90's before they were bought out and started being made in china. you can still find them on ebay. used old school equipment is where its at..

today almost everything is made in china and it shows when you remove the cover off of the amps. (very disappointing to take the cover off of my expensive alpine amp only to find the chintzy generic components and board inside.)
they are always overrated for power and never put out what they say they do.

Quote:
just dont honestly believe any "3000" watt amplifier you get for 200 bucks is going to have an actual output near that.
For that matter don't buy ANY amp that states MAX power ratings. Run, run far away from them. guaranteed to be a piece of s.

I really don't know what to recommend for you because i don't really know what you can fit in a reg cab.

But for $83 JBL GTO1014D 10" Dual 4 ohms Grand Touring Die-Cast Series Subwoofer its very hard to beat this sub for sound quality and output. if you can fit it. (wired to 8ohms not 2)

and for $100 US Acoustics USX 2150 amplifier - eBay (item 180526273017 end time Jul-27-10 1925 PDT) This is a very conservatively 450w rated old school amp (more like 550w) when bridged.

then you would have to build or buy a box with a volume of .75 cubic ft. (more like .80 to allow for displacement of the sub its self.
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Old 07-04-2010
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Second link doesn't work
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  #22  
Old 07-04-2010
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sorry this forum turns it into a smily face ... just look up us acoustics USX-2150 sold by audio clinic.
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  #23  
Old 07-04-2010
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Also, just thought about it and since no one else has mentioned it, if your looking for a sub amplifier, no matter what brand spend the money on a class d monoblock amplifier, non of that 2/4 channel (class a/b) shenanigans, a class d is more efficient in the way it produces power so its sucking less amperage for the same output compared to a class a/b amplifier and creates less heat.
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Old 07-04-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edge2k View Post
Also, just thought about it and since no one else has mentioned it, if your looking for a sub amplifier, no matter what brand spend the money on a class d monoblock amplifier, non of that 2/4 channel (class a/b) shenanigans, a class d is more efficient in the way it produces power so its sucking less amperage for the same output compared to a class a/b amplifier and creates less heat.
Good advice, that was the mistake I made with my current sub/amp setup. Next time I'm goin Class D mono
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  #25  
Old 07-04-2010
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this is true.. but power in a car is free.. unless you drive a hybrid. many first/second generation class d amps produced alot of noise. designers really didn't know enough about them at the time many still don't. a/b usually produces cleaner sound. thats why they are used for the main speakers. heat won't be an issue with a/b as long as your not asking for more then the amp can produce.(many ppl do with loads of less then 4 ohms or gains cranked up) there is absolutely nothing wrong with an a/b amp or a class d. finding a good quality class d can be a crap shoot. if you do they are very expensive.

My a/b class stereo amp blows my class d mono away. an amp is not automatically better because it is class d, that is what im trying to get at. and vice versa.

most all Mono amps today are just internally bridged stereo amps. no real difference there.
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