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Old 08-31-2011
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Icon2 System help

Well im new to the whole car audio thing and i need some help with picking out my stereo system for my '03 regular cab ranger. I want subs in my truck but i also want a new headunit, door speakers, and rear speakers to make the whole system sound good. I have heard many brands tossed around, and honestly i dont care what brand it is just as long as it doesn't cost a butt load and it has good quality. Now for the questions and stuff lol. here is what i was thinking for subs i was thinking one 10" sub, it will give me some good kick and yet i can throw my backpack behind my seat. i was thinking this sub http://www.audiosavings.com/products.../10W3V3-2.aspx
and this amp http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Polk+Aud...&skuId=1007107
this head unit http://www.bestbuy.com/site/JVC+-+50...&skuId=1685043
and then for door and rear speakers two pairs of these http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Sony+-+6...&skuId=1982098

any suggestions? do i need a bigger amp for all this? i really dont know how the amp watts come into play, if i need more watts if im running a whole stereo system or if i just need to match the sub's watts with the amps watts with the speaker's watts.. If that all makes sence
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Old 08-31-2011
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Personally, I'd save a bit more for some better speakers (Alpine type S) and while your at it, might as well amp the speakers themselves (better sound at louder volumes because you won't be maxing out the tiny amplifier built into the headunit). As for the sub amp, I'd look into a monoblock amp (although that one should work). Also, look into getting a sub amp with more power. If you get an amp that puts out 300 watts peak, and your sub will be running at 300 watts RMS, you're going to be overloading the amp very easily when you crank it. Conversley, If you have an amp that runs higher than the peak power of your sub, you then risk blowing your sub, but you will also provide constant full power to your sub resulting in more consistency. An example is: I used to have 2 12" Alpine type R subs. I powered them with the alpine PDX 1.1000 monoblock amp. That amp runs at 3000 Watts peak power, which means I was able to drive both of those subs at their peak power if I needed to. It was a perfect match between the subs and the amp.

I've been out of the car audio game for some time now, but I'm sure others can chime in and correct me if needed...

Hope this clears it up a bit
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Old 08-31-2011
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JL is way overpriced!

and remember, peak power rating is useless, look at RMS

for a sub in that power range, i would get a DC lvl 2 10.
for a amp, the AudioQue 750, leaves u room to upgrade
http://www.audioque.com/AQ750-Amplifier_p_46.html
for speakers, http://www.ebay.com/itm/SOUNDSTREAM-...item3f0b5ebed4
or http://www.ebay.com/itm/SOUNDSTREAM-...item19c83c7de4
these get really loud.
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Old 08-31-2011
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Originally Posted by the Answer View Post

and remember, peak power rating is useless, look at RMS.
How exactly is peak power rating useless??????
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Old 08-31-2011
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Originally Posted by Fink132 View Post
How exactly is peak power rating useless??????
when you match an amp to a speaker, you always match it up with the rms, not peak
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Old 08-31-2011
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Originally Posted by Fink132 View Post
How exactly is peak power rating useless??????
First of all, quit with all the question marks. It makes you look retarded. Second, max power means nothing. It's a marketing thing. RMS is what matters. Don't try and run up. Sit back.
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Old 08-31-2011
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Originally Posted by Fink132 View Post
An example is: I used to have 2 12" Alpine type R subs. I powered them with the alpine PDX 1.1000 monoblock amp. That amp runs at 3000 Watts peak power, which means I was able to drive both of those subs at their peak power if I needed to. It was a perfect match between the subs and the amp.

Hope this clears it up a bit
you can give a pair of type r's more than 1000rms. I gave mine 1600rms and they never compained.
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Old 08-31-2011
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wow thanks guys!
i think im going to go with the stuff the answer linked.
how about this sub? http://www.bestbuy.com/site/JBL+-+10...&skuId=1550643
will i need a different amp then because its a 4-Ohm sub and thats only a 1-Ohm amp?
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Old 09-01-2011
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All I have to say is to stay away from sony speakers. they SUCK. i had them in my first car and they were horrible.
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Old 09-01-2011
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Originally Posted by HordTough View Post
wow thanks guys!
i think im going to go with the stuff the answer linked.
how about this sub? http://www.bestbuy.com/site/JBL+-+10...&skuId=1550643
will i need a different amp then because its a 4-Ohm sub and thats only a 1-Ohm amp?
it will go as low as 1 ohm, so a 4 ohm sub will work on it
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Old 09-01-2011
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ok thanks man. So what exactly does ohm do/mean? more ohms=better/worse?
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Old 09-03-2011
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For the ohms question and other basic or advanced info go here http://www.bcae1.com/ do your self a favor and read up on everything before you spend your money. there's a lot to learn. the more you know the better. once you're done with that site head on over to http://www.diymobileaudio.com/ and read the how tos and what not. there's a lot more information available there. should give you a much better picture of what is good and whats not.

That JBL sub is really incredible for the money. A guy on ebay has them new for $85 shipped. cannot say enough good things about it. sound/build quality, loud, low, high power handling, diecast frame, durable.
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  #13  
Old 09-06-2011
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Wow thanks RangOH! ill check those sites out!
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