I have a kicker cvt i beleive single voice coil since there is only one positive and one negative to hook wires to on the sub, at 2 ohms. I have a memphis 500.1 mono amp and it says that if i run at 2 ohms it will produce 300 rms watts, but if i run at 1 ohm, it will produce 500 rms watts. The sub can handle 400+ and i hate underpowering my subs. Anyone know how to wire my sub to my amp to achieve a 1 ohm load and generate 500 true rms watts outta this sucker. Thanks a lot

 

You need a dual 2-ohm voice coil sub to bridge it down to 1-ohm. The amp will however get a lot hotter at 1-ohm than at 2 and less at 4.

 

shameless plug but x2^^

 

best if you run it at your 2ohm stage if its a single voice coil less chances on messing your stuff up

 

^you're not gonna mess anything up.

 

what does overheating cause....... to start frying internal circuits i know i been there done it i also worked at a stereo shop im running 4 12's with 2 2400 watt amps with a 4 fard cap with a yellow top [IMG][/IMG]

 

Id hate to goto your audio shop since your calling evering thing in max wattage when most people who are really into system goes off rms

 

Much less the english. WTF did you say?

haha just kidding around.


You only have one load and one signal source so you only have one option. 2ohms. that extra 200w will barely be detectable by ear.

 

okay, well i have another amp, a kicker 400.1 it says at 2 ohm it produces all of 400 rms true watts. well, i had a cvt10 i just blew i guess bc it dont work at all, it said it could handle 400 rms watts, i guess not. so im going to purchase either another single ten with atleast 500 rms watt capability at 2 ohms so i dont blow it. If i bought two of those black and yellow kicker c10s, 4 ohms, and ran them in parralel to get two ohms, would i be over loading them with that amp? or should i just stick with one 10 and get that 600 cvx? lol that shouldnt blow. what yall think, is there ne difference between two tens or one if ur feeding the same amount from your amp? thanks

 

http://www.crutchfield.com/learn/lea...rs_wiring.html

 

Wiring a sub is all about matching the ohm's and keeping it within the RMS and peak wattage. I've been running the same sub and amp together for over 8 years. The only thing I've had to do is caulk the reflex to the cone because I blew it from the power. Ever since, no problem.

You just have to match the ohm's, keeping it withing the RMS and Peak wattage ratings.

 

If you got two 4ohm drivers and wired them in parallel that would give you a 2ohm load and the dirvers would share the power. Since you have a pretty nice 400w amp, I'd look for a single 400-500w driver or two 200-250w drivers, depending on how much space you want to use up.

Whats your price range? Are you looking just for bump or is SQ important. Since you have to buy a new driver anyway, may as well get your best bang for buck and I'm sure people here are willing to give recommendations. I know I am. :)

 

well hook me up with some suggestions. i want to use the box i have, its for a single 10 round sub, so i need a sub that will handle my amp and sound nice. Also, the cvt10 i had was a svc sub, if i got a dvc sub whats the difference? And lastly, my pioneer 5800 i believe hu has a bass boost on it. i have it at zero and tuned my gain accordingly, but if i put that all the way up, and then tuned my gain, would i get some more amps from my head unit to my sub, making my sub kick harder and louder, or am i barking up the wrong tree here. Thanks again