New car: what do I have that would be best for the first coat of wax?
#1
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Jackson, New Jersey
Posts: 4,872
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
New car: what do I have that would be best for the first coat of wax?
We're picking up a new car tomorrow, it is a 2011 and has never been waxed. I have looked through my detailing stuff and I have Meguires NXT, Meguires Gold Class, and Mother's 3 step process of Pre Wax, Sealer/Glaze, and Carnuba wax (3 separate waxes). I also have an orbital buffer and foam pads for applying the wax.
Can anybody with experience tell me which of the waxes will be best, and which way of applying the wax would be best? This is a black car, so I don't want to take any chances and screw things up with the paint.
Can anybody with experience tell me which of the waxes will be best, and which way of applying the wax would be best? This is a black car, so I don't want to take any chances and screw things up with the paint.
#4
Clay bar a brand new car? I dunno about that... If it were me i would wash the car real good, apply the Mother's 3 Step, but hold off on the Carnauba Wax. Use the Meguiars NXT instead, since it's a synthetic polymer wax ad will last longer. After that I would use the Carnauba since its a softer wax, meaning it won't last as long, but does give the paint a nice deep shine.
*Tip: S100 is a Carnauba Wax made for motorcycles that is way better than any store bought Carnauba Wax... It's about $20 in bike shops though...
*Tip: S100 is a Carnauba Wax made for motorcycles that is way better than any store bought Carnauba Wax... It's about $20 in bike shops though...
#6
Actually been doing this for over 30 plus years, Yes you should clay bar a new car, when the car comes from the factory, it contaminated with brake dust, some overspray (believe it or not) and environmental metals, Clay bar is a great way to get all of that off, including clay barring your windshield and all exterior plastics, than you will want to wash again, here are the steps you should follow.
1- wash
2- clay bar
3- wash again
4- wax
5- seal
1- wash
2- clay bar
3- wash again
4- wax
5- seal
#7
I wouldnt clay bar a newer paint until after its first good coat of wax. If it's black definately do a thick coat of paste wax and it will be a good base for clay bar a few month down the road once the car is out in the elements. Clay is meant to strip the contaminents off that clung to the paint/clear coat due to weather conditions, I doubt there will be anything on a new car like that
#8
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Jackson, New Jersey
Posts: 4,872
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, I appreciate the advice, however I am leery of the clay bar, so I am going to hold off on it. Unfortunately I do not have any pastes, all of my waxes are in bottle form. I guess I'll just have to lay it on nice and thick. Do I have to worry about swirl marks with the orbital buffer? That is a bit of a concern for me.
#11
#14
Well, I appreciate the advice, however I am leery of the clay bar, so I am going to hold off on it. Unfortunately I do not have any pastes, all of my waxes are in bottle form. I guess I'll just have to lay it on nice and thick. Do I have to worry about swirl marks with the orbital buffer? That is a bit of a concern for me.
Bottle wax = Paste wax.
nothing like a good ol' fashioned hand wax. like the karate kid. I did my mothers Buick LaCrosse the day after she picked it up with Mothers California Gold. hand waxed it all the way.
Most new cars already have that "glassy" feel you'd get with a clay bar and IMO it would be completely worthless to use one. if your serious about getting defects out of paint and getting a great shine, Look for some Meguiars rubbing compound and use that with a buffing wheel, i've never had swirls and always a great shine.
#15
#16
You couldn't really see it until a while later... it's all rail dust because after it came from Japan it came on the train all the way from B.C. It really starts to show up once those tiny bits of metal start to rust.... especially on a pearl white car. lol
#18
There is some silly advice here. You only need to clay the paint if you feel any surface contaminants. The best way to find out is to perform a "baggie test." To do the "baggie test" simply use a clean sandwich baggie by placing your hand inside the baggie and then feeling the horizontal surfaces like the hood, roof, and trunk lid. The film of plastic acts to intensify the surface texture created by contaminants bonded to the paint making it more dramatic to your sense of touch when you feel the paint through the baggie. One thing I will mention is that if it was transported by rail you will most likely need to clay the paint. The first step in the three step system you have is most likely a paint cleaner, which acts just as a clay bar. So if you aren't comfortable using a clay bar you can do that instead.
You should never put any product on thick. It's not bad, but makes it harder to remove and wastes the product. For the LSP (last step product) I'd go with the carnauba wax you have. As a matter of a fact, I'd use the entire three step process since that is what you have. There are many, many products out there and much more to "detailing" than washing, claying, and waxing. The biggest thing most never talk about is a paint correction. A paint correction is above most peoples comfort level, and something you should only do if you know what you are doing. For a brand new car chances are this is something that doesn't apply anyway.
I could write a book on the subject and do detailing as a weekend business so if you have any specific questions I'd be happy to help.
You should never put any product on thick. It's not bad, but makes it harder to remove and wastes the product. For the LSP (last step product) I'd go with the carnauba wax you have. As a matter of a fact, I'd use the entire three step process since that is what you have. There are many, many products out there and much more to "detailing" than washing, claying, and waxing. The biggest thing most never talk about is a paint correction. A paint correction is above most peoples comfort level, and something you should only do if you know what you are doing. For a brand new car chances are this is something that doesn't apply anyway.
I could write a book on the subject and do detailing as a weekend business so if you have any specific questions I'd be happy to help.
#20
#21
There is some silly advice here. You only need to clay the paint if you feel any surface contaminants. The best way to find out is to perform a "baggie test." To do the "baggie test" simply use a clean sandwich baggie by placing your hand inside the baggie and then feeling the horizontal surfaces like the hood, roof, and trunk lid. The film of plastic acts to intensify the surface texture created by contaminants bonded to the paint making it more dramatic to your sense of touch when you feel the paint through the baggie. One thing I will mention is that if it was transported by rail you will most likely need to clay the paint. The first step in the three step system you have is most likely a paint cleaner, which acts just as a clay bar. So if you aren't comfortable using a clay bar you can do that instead.
You should never put any product on thick. It's not bad, but makes it harder to remove and wastes the product. For the LSP (last step product) I'd go with the carnauba wax you have. As a matter of a fact, I'd use the entire three step process since that is what you have. There are many, many products out there and much more to "detailing" than washing, claying, and waxing. The biggest thing most never talk about is a paint correction. A paint correction is above most peoples comfort level, and something you should only do if you know what you are doing. For a brand new car chances are this is something that doesn't apply anyway.
I could write a book on the subject and do detailing as a weekend business so if you have any specific questions I'd be happy to help.
You should never put any product on thick. It's not bad, but makes it harder to remove and wastes the product. For the LSP (last step product) I'd go with the carnauba wax you have. As a matter of a fact, I'd use the entire three step process since that is what you have. There are many, many products out there and much more to "detailing" than washing, claying, and waxing. The biggest thing most never talk about is a paint correction. A paint correction is above most peoples comfort level, and something you should only do if you know what you are doing. For a brand new car chances are this is something that doesn't apply anyway.
I could write a book on the subject and do detailing as a weekend business so if you have any specific questions I'd be happy to help.
#22
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Jackson, New Jersey
Posts: 4,872
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
All good advice, and thanks guys.
It's black and it's fast... something I've mentioned before, and there will be more than a few people jealous of it. I'm trying to keep it quiet it in case I don't get the check from my credit union for it tonight - I already got disappointed when I thought I was going to have it on Wednesday. Nothing is being traded in... we're up to 4 cars/trucks again.
Since I'm picking it up tonight (if the check comes), I'll probably have photos of it by the weekend.
Since I'm picking it up tonight (if the check comes), I'll probably have photos of it by the weekend.
#23
All good advice, and thanks guys.
It's black and it's fast... something I've mentioned before, and there will be more than a few people jealous of it. I'm trying to keep it quiet it in case I don't get the check from my credit union for it tonight - I already got disappointed when I thought I was going to have it on Wednesday. Nothing is being traded in... we're up to 4 cars/trucks again.
Since I'm picking it up tonight (if the check comes), I'll probably have photos of it by the weekend.
It's black and it's fast... something I've mentioned before, and there will be more than a few people jealous of it. I'm trying to keep it quiet it in case I don't get the check from my credit union for it tonight - I already got disappointed when I thought I was going to have it on Wednesday. Nothing is being traded in... we're up to 4 cars/trucks again.
Since I'm picking it up tonight (if the check comes), I'll probably have photos of it by the weekend.
#25
As I have stated before, I have been doing this for many many years, here is some info from a site
http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...brand-new-car/
http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...brand-new-car/