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  #1  
Old 05-21-2009
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Clay bar questions

I am considering using a clay bar on my truck for the first time. I have always used a polish, followed by a wax, for the first detail of the season. After seeing some of the photos of trucks that were clayed, I think it might do better than a polish at cleaning the paint after the winter months. A few questions...

- what is the best thing to use to lubricate the clay?
- how long does it take, as compared to hand applying and removing polish?
- any tips to achieve the best results?
- do I need to rewash after claying, or will a "quick detailer" do?

As always, any help is appreciated!
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Old 05-21-2009
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- what is the best thing to use to lubricate the clay?
Most kits come with a clay bar lubricant to use
- how long does it take, as compared to hand applying and removing polish?
Mine took a little less time than it did to wax the truck, but it still took awhile
- any tips to achieve the best results?
Meguiar's clay bar kit...? Lol
- do I need to rewash after claying, or will a "quick detailer" do?
I'm not sure...
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Old 05-21-2009
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After you clay you need to wax. Clay will strip off all the wax and polish you have on the car. I like to use the Meguiar's clay kit followed by the NXT 2.0 wax, works great. The way I can tell if my truck needs to be clayed is by how the paint feels. If it feels rough like paper or even worse sand paper it needs to be clayed. Another way is to stick your hand in a zip loc bag and rub it over the paint.
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Old 05-21-2009
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Trent, when y ou use that clay kit, does the lubricant left on the paint turn to a haze? I mean, it comes off, but it looks like dried milk on my truck when I'm done with the clay bar and lubricant.

I would not wash the truck after the clay bar kit, the paint has nothing left on it to protect itself.
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Old 05-21-2009
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Yeah it will, the quik detailer is pretty milky looking. I dry mine off after I'm done with a section though.

I agree, wash the truck first, then clay it, then do any other paint correction, then wax it.
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Old 05-21-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04blackedge View Post
I like to use the Meguiar's clay kit followed by the NXT 2.0 wax, works great.
I just recently used the Meguiars and it worked great. Go pick up one of the kits. Theyre not very much.
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Old 06-03-2009
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i washed my truck first to get the major dirt off, then clayed it in the areas that i could feel needed it. washed off the dried lubricant then waxed. is this ok?
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Old 06-03-2009
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I wipe the lubricant off as soon as I'm done with the section, I don't let it dry on.
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Old 06-03-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04blackedge View Post
I wipe the lubricant off as soon as I'm done with the section, I don't let it dry on.
This is better than letting the lubricant dry and washing it off. Because, if you're not careful when washing after claying, you could hurt the paint, since there is no wax on the paint...

IMO, clay bar the WHOLE thing, not just spots. It'll be worth it I think..
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Old 06-03-2009
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youre not going to hurt your paint if you wash it after you clay it. paint is alot more resilient than you may think. but when i clay mine i usually let the detailer dry and then wipe it off before i wax it. i also like the NXT wax. its good stuff
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Old 06-03-2009
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- what is the best thing to use to lubricate the clay?
wash the truck then before you dry it cay the truck and use the hose to lube the clay. just run the water over the clay bar are you clay the truck.
- how long does it take, as compared to hand applying and removing polish?
it will take a little time but it is a must and worth it. esp on darker colors
- any tips to achieve the best results?
haste makes waste. it is a pain to wash clay then re wash but you will be happy when its done
- do I need to rewash after claying, or will a "quick detailer" do?
the truck will be wet anyway if you do it the way im saying so it wont take but and extra 10 min or so to rewash it.
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Old 06-03-2009
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btw i have my own small car detail bus. and that how i do it and rec. ppl to do it. never any problems. best of luck and you can pm my if you have any other spacific questions man
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Old 06-03-2009
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I wouldn't use straight water to lubricate the clay, at least use a water soap mix in a spray bottle.
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  #14  
Old 06-03-2009
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well its constant stream of water while you clay it... it doesnt seem like it would work but i have been doing it that way on all color and makes and models from BMW to benz to toyota... thats what works for me.
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Old 06-04-2009
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Yeah, I know on one of the kits they specify not to use water to lubricate the clay. If Meguiar's says not too, I'm going to trust them that they might know what they're talking about.
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  #16  
Old 06-04-2009
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Number one rule in detailing is to not rush!

take your time and do it right the first time, follow the instructions

A steady stream of water seems like a big waste and lots of money if you are in the city, I wouldnt recommend just straight water even if it is at a steady stream, main reason being is that not all water comming out of the hose is filtered, that means there are minerals coming out too and if you have "hard" water you can etch the paint REALLY easily... but through in a good car wash soap and it should be alright. As stated you will not hurt your paint if you wash it again... washing your car with car soap does not remove any paint.... but use Dish detergent and you will do so, early signs to look for is the clear coat failing.

Ive been detailing cars ever since freshmen year in Highschool, and Ive been doing it all by hand... adn you learn really quickly that if you mess up it takes just that much longer to correct the mistake.

Just take your time... pick out a good weekend to do this with no interruptions.


Oh I do have one tip for you, spray some QD on your hand that you will be using to clay as well as the clay you are using (not the whole block at once) just make it so that your hand doesnt stick to the clay and that you have a good lubrication between the clay and the paint
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  #17  
Old 06-08-2009
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Use dawn dish soap to wash before hand. Strips off all of the old wax to give you a clean surface.
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  #18  
Old 06-09-2009
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It does not matter what kit you buy all the clay is made by the same damn company. They it is just the amount and color. The meguirs kit now comes w/ 2 bars which is a nice feature.

Usually lube w/ a spray detailer but I have done it with water before and never had a problem even on a black car but you get better results w/ the spray detailers (because as above mentioned all water is not created equal). I normally dilute the spray detailer to make it last a bit longer.

I always do it in panels and always start at the top. How long it takes depends on how messed up the truck is. My truck was a work truck and was almost brown w/ dirt and sediment was supposed to be white it took me about 4 hours to clay and wax the truck. Definitely apply a good wax/polish after you are done. Meguirs gold Class or klasse wax seem to work best for me easiest to apply and remove.

My biggest tip is take your time and when you do the whole thing one day, then when you wash your truck just pick a section and re-do a different section each time this way it stays nice. and be sure to mead the bar while doing the job also especially if the paint has a lot of sediment.
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Old 06-09-2009
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when i use a clay bar system, the first thing i do is wash the vehicle really good....

then you dry it really good...

here is the EASIEST thing to do using a clay bar:

-pick a starting point (one of the body panels wheterh it be hood, fender, etc) the best thing to do is to work front to back or back to front---i start with hood, then right fender, the right doors, right back fender, tailgate/backbumper, left back fender, left doors, left front fender, front bumper, and lastly the top of truck..
-now spray on the QD for lubrication at the corner of that bodypanel, have the clay bar in one hand, and the supplied microfiber towel in the other.
-Knead the clay bar till soft and the rub it across paint in a back and forth motion..(friction takes of "contaminants")then wipe that spot you just did and move over a little. use the BACK of your hand to rub across paint in close proximity to the spot you just done and you can feel difference in paint and where youve clayed and where you haven't.
-do ONE body panel at a tie claying and wiping
-when you are done, wax the whole panel IMMEDIATLY (so no dust had good cahnce of settling), then remove wax
WALLA your done with that panel, move to the next and repeat process

just remember spray,clay,wipe, wax, wipe...repeat
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  #20  
Old 06-09-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dropped98 View Post
It does not matter what kit you buy all the clay is made by the same damn company.
There is a difference in kits, but not in the consumer product line. The automotive stores around me have a "professional line" of clay, its more aggressive and Ive only used it once just to see if there was any difference, and there was. A customer came in with a rust stain on her 01 Camry she had parked it under a metal car garage. I used my plain Jane clay from meguiars and couldnt remove it, so for kicks I went out and got the more aggressive clay and it got out the rust stain. I wouldnt suggest using an aggressive clay like that because it has mild paint removing capabilities, use it too often and you are through the paint and need to repaint the whole area or the whole car.

heres what I used to get the rust out:

What Ive learned through detailing is dont use the strongest product first, go slow work yourself up finding the right amount to use.
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  #21  
Old 06-10-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapala View Post
There is a difference in kits, but not in the consumer product line. .
The clay within the regular retail kits are all owned by clay magic, then they just color them different colors. So as far as the clay itself it is the same stuff in there.
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Old 06-10-2009
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when ever i clay i: wash, clay, wash, wax.
and for kicks ha
detailed017.jpg?t=1244680360
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Old 06-11-2009
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^^Weak! JK
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