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Auto Detailing 101 General discussion of auto cleaning and detailing. Learn tips and tricks to keep your Ford Ranger looking its best.

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  #26  
Old 09-13-2013
GMG GMG is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RebelRider2010 View Post
I'd be more worried about the alcohol than dawn dish soap ruining clear coat,

Well, the Nu Polish doesn't seem to last as long as it clams, hasn't even been a month and I already notice a decline in water beading. Lowe's sells the NXT stuff, I guess I will try that out, I havn't been able to find the Collonite stuff
Nu Polish had its day. But there are so many other products that do indeed out perform it. But credit to them, as Nu Polish was a good 20 years ahead of the industry. I doubt that today's Nu Polish is anything like the original of around 40 years ago. (I still remember using Nu Vinyl when it came out in the early 1970's.)

Clear coat is incredibly durable relative to gasoline exposure, etc.,. That's the test it must stand up against; is having gasoline drip down the fill tube onto the painted surface and sit there for God only knows how long.

IPA (Isopropanol Alcohol) "rubbing alcohol" sprayed on the clear coat in a 50/50 mix max and then wiped with a micro towel does not affect it, but waxes dissolves when confronted with it.
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  #27  
Old 09-13-2013
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You have a good point about the gas test and alcohol. I am used to my bronco that had spray painted Duplicolor clear coat that didn't withstand any type of petrol product.

It has been less than 30 days now, and the water has ceased to bead (trucks only been washed 1 or 2 times in that time) and the surface does not feel slick anymore.

I guess I'll use the rest of the bottle on my lawn mower, etc. Next stop will be to order that collinite stuff off Amazon, since it seems so good.

With the collinite, can you get it on plastics and such? Or will it turn white and be a PITA like Nu Polish?
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  #28  
Old 09-13-2013
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That glare stuff seems Awesome, but "chemically altering" my paint seems like a bad way to market it. Stuffs also fairly expensive, but may be worth a try.

Winters here are very harsh on paints and metals, because they have decided that road salt isn't good enough and now dump a Salt brine, road salt, and sand/gravel on the roads. That brine is like acid, I swear. So before winter hits I am trying to get a good solid protection on the truck.

I will probably clay it (either with my meguirs clay kit I have, or get a liquid clay, haven't decided yet) and put something else on it. Either NTX, Collinite, and Ill add that glare to my list of contenders.


So many decisions LOL.
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  #29  
Old 09-13-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RebelRider2010 View Post
You have a good point about the gas test and alcohol. I am used to my bronco that had spray painted Duplicolor clear coat that didn't withstand any type of petrol product.

It has been less than 30 days now, and the water has ceased to bead (trucks only been washed 1 or 2 times in that time) and the surface does not feel slick anymore.

I guess I'll use the rest of the bottle on my lawn mower, etc. Next stop will be to order that collinite stuff off Amazon, since it seems so good.

With the collinite, can you get it on plastics and such? Or will it turn white and be a PITA like Nu Polish?
Sure can that is the great part about it doesn't show on the cracks and doesn't leave white stuff on your black plastic,I use it on my mirrors bedrails and bumper.I put about a nickle size spot on the polishing pad and a little goes a long ways.Set in the Sun and warm it up and shake it everytime you put some on the pad.Don't let it dry,do a fender or half the hood and wipe it off for the best results.There is some vids on YouTube.
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  #30  
Old 09-14-2013
GMG GMG is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RebelRider2010 View Post
That glare stuff seems Awesome, but "chemically altering" my paint seems like a bad way to market it. Stuffs also fairly expensive, but may be worth a try.

Winters here are very harsh on paints and metals, because they have decided that road salt isn't good enough and now dump a Salt brine, road salt, and sand/gravel on the roads. That brine is like acid, I swear. So before winter hits I am trying to get a good solid protection on the truck.

I will probably clay it (either with my meguirs clay kit I have, or get a liquid clay, haven't decided yet) and put something else on it. Either NTX, Collinite, and Ill add that glare to my list of contenders.


So many decisions LOL.
I had actually ordered it from Honda (but forget until it showed up on Friday) so I'll be applying it over my Opti-Coat 2.0 and see how it does.

I must say that the Opti-Coat over a properly prepared clear coat finish is shiny and super slick, but I'm throw some Glare on there and see how it does.

I'll put it on the roof vs the hood just in case "all hell breaks loose with the combo".

I have clayed several cars and they do remove some contaminants but nothing replaces using Scholl S3 Gold and 3D Int'l "HD Polish" once you've removed all old waxes/polishes with Dawn dish detergent and IPA.

Clay does nothing for swirls, hazing, oxidation, scratches. I would use buffing over clay any day if I had to choose. If you "clay" your car, you must wash it with Dawn and IPA wipe to get all of the film off of the clear coat.

All of the claims, advertisements, etc., for waxes/polishes is always with a pristine, 100% pure, clear coat finish. That means you must get down to the clear coat through one fashion or another in order to meet the wax mfgr's claims.

Last edited by GMG; 09-14-2013 at 06:10 PM.
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  #31  
Old 09-15-2013
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^ let us know how it goes!
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  #32  
Old 09-19-2013
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I used NU Polish before and it works great but I don't the smell. The Glare products look interesting. Looking forward for some reviews about it.
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  #33  
Old 09-19-2013
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I just bought a cheap bottle of Turtle Wax from the dollar store. It went on easy but it was a chore to buff it off. The truck looks great though.

It's my habit to hand wax my truck twice a year. Once before winter and once after winter. I prefer Maguire's wax but it's very expensive. Money is tight right now, so I'm trying out the Turtle wax. For $ 3.50 a bottle, it seems to be okay.
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  #34  
Old 09-19-2013
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Here's a Nu Polish vs Glare test:

eAdopter | May 19, 2013

I don't normally wax/polish my cars often, but reading the Forums and waiting two years for my MS got the best of me.

My MS will be delivered in 7-10 days and I plan to keep it polished. With that in mind, I read every review I could find and narrowed the product list down to three:

NTX
Nu Finish
Glare

I ordered Glare from eBay. Nu Finish was purchased at a local store. I decided to skip NXT. I have little doubt NXT is a good product, but the other two intrigued me more and I only need to polish two cars.. Glare is supposed to remove/hide spider webs and swirl marks, polish chrome, and last five years. Nu Finish is supposed to last one year. I like the idea of low maintenance so I decided to experiment with only the last two products, Glare and Nu Finish.

I have two cars for my test. One is a 1998 with plenty of spider webs and swirl marks. The second is a 2012 with no spider webs or swirl marks (near pefect).
Today I washed/waxed/polished both cars. Both were washed/dried in 55 degree weather. Neither car was driven or allowed to get warm in the sun (overcast today). Both cars were polished in my garage to avoid having UV rays bake-on the products. I hate having a wax get too hard and then having to scrub it off. Too much work.

Here are the results:

The 1998 car was first. To test Glare, I applied it to half of the hood. Glare did an amazing(!) job of hiding the spider webs and swirl marks. About 90% of the marks were hiden when viewed under a bright light. I was impressed. The second half of the hood was polished with Nu Finish. It also provided a very good shine, but only hid about 5% of the spider webs. Both products looked very good from beyond 3 feet. Both were easy to apply. Glare produced more dush. Nu Finish produced almost no dust. Glare had slightly less gloss but looked deeper. I finished the 1998 car with Nu Finish ($6) and the car looks great.
Note: One thing was interesting. The two products overlapped as I worked on the hood. Glare refused being removed by Nu Finish. Nu Finish could be removed by Glare. It seems Glare is something more than a typical polish. I even tried to remove it with a variety of soaps and wax. No luck. Glare is tough stuff.
Next up, the 2012 car with near-perfect paint. Again, I applied both Glare and Nu Finish side by side. There were no spider webs or swirls to compare with a bright light. Both products produced a great shine. Glare was slightly more mirror-like. Glare was also slightly easier to remove and buff. In order to have a comparison in a few weeks, I finished the 2012 car with Glare. Again, it produced more dust but not as much as regular wax.
Having one car now polised with each product, I'll keep an eye on durability for the coming weeks and months.
I've decided to use Nu Finish on my MS. The paint will be new so there should be no spider webs to hide. Nu Finish is much more cost effective, assuming it lasts several months.


eAdopter | May 21, 2013


Update:
As you'll recall from my Glare and Nu Finish review (link below), I had high praise for both products and promised to keep you posted regarding durability, etc.

The hood of my 1998 car has both products applied side by side. Let the competition begin.

Rain Day 1
Today was my first chance to observe performance in the rain. While it doesn't speak directly to durability, the performance difference on my 1998 car was dramatic.

Nu Finish: Performed very well. Caused water to bead much like a conventional wax.

Glare: OMG! Water won't stick to the painted surface. There are no beads because it won't stay wet.

Earlier I said I wouldn't pay 3x the cost for Glare when it only performed 1.1x better than Nu Finish. Well, this is only "Rain Day 1", but I may need to change my mind if Glare continues to perform this well. I'll keep you posted.
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