Rust repair.....I hate the midwest
 

Alright, I got my '98 Ranger last summer. Originally it was from Utah and it came to Michigan 3 years ago. After being through it's 3rd winter here (even with regualr washing) the frame is now red (nowhere near a typical michigan truck, but still too much for my liking). I would not have this problem if the 2 previous owners (in the U.P.) would have given a ****. The underbody is also starting to rust where things are held together, mainly at the joints where 2 pieces of metal are touching. There are no holes starting....thank god.

Anyway, the frame will have to wait, but as for the underbody, to get rid of the rust, could I just buy a grinding wheen or wire brush that can be attached to a hand held drill to get rid of it? Or would it be possible to have a shop sandblast it w/o removing the body from the frame? Once the rust is removed, what should I cover it with? I want a sealant type product, not just paint.

I'll post pic tomorrow once it's light out.

Obviously the best thing to do is take the cab and bed off the frame and have the frame sandblasted. Although I'm sure that's much more involved than you want. So I'd just take a wire wheel on an air drill and get everything you can. Then use POR-15 Chassis Coat to protect it. Here: POR-15 CHG Chassis Coat Blk Gal. : eBay Motors (item 330424076259 end time Apr-21-10 13:27:38 PDT)

Yeah...I could take the body and bed off the frame, but it's my only vehicle and I'm 17. I still live at home and my parents don't take an interest in vehicles like I do, so I have literally none of the the tools to do that myself.

How much would a body shop charge? I'm guessing a ****load....

go out and buy some tools, that way youll have em for the rest of your life. i know to take the bed off u need a t55 torx bit and a 1/2" drive, not sure about the cab tho

If his cab bolts are like mine ( i have a 99 xlt) then they will be the t55 as well

I also need sand blasting equipment....

a sand blaster is basically a plastic jug that you pour sand into with a hose attached which then attaches to an air compressor line...its pretty basic but i really don't know how much they cost i just borrow my friends when i need it lol

I got my sandblaster for less than 50 bucks. some of them get to be really expensive but if you shop around there are smaller one's that will work great for what you need. i don't know where in Michigan you are but if your near me i can probably give you a hand and save you buying a sandblaster.

Just use a drill and wire wheel and have patience

x2, cordless can be a ***** with the batteries dieing and whatnot, but a corded drill or an angle grinder and wire wheel can work wonders

HAHA I though I was alone. Same EXACT situation. 17, first car, neither of my parents are vehicular. Fortunately for me my dad has decent tool collection. I've had to buy stuff, but only the specific stuff. Nothing basic like wrench sets or anything. I am DEFIANTLY asking for an air compressor and impact gun for Christmas. I need one SOOOOOO bad.

im sure the previous owners in the U.P. "gave a ****" but they get way more snow up there than lower mi does and in turn use more salt ... furthermore many of them cant wash anything in the winter cause the water will freeze before it hits the truck

get some POR-15. and just paint straight over the rust.

I can't add anything as to how or what to do, but from what you're describing and from the few other Rangers I've seen (maybe all Ford pick-ups?) rust seems to be a very common problem. Mine's a 92 originally from Texas, then to Mass. now Long Island NY. Lot's of rust, both rear shackle brackets rusted through an I've replaced themI wonder if Ford imports crappy steel. I see and own older Toyota and hardly no rust on them at all.

I use a wire wheel, and Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer. It seems to hold up great

really? all I hear about is how ****ty toyota frame/bodies are. I have never seen a toyota in the U.P. that isn't rusted to hell without being brand new or extremely well taken care of. As for the ford things, mines isn't bad at all, just more rust than I would prefer to have....which would be zero. But hey, you gotta expect rust no matter what if you're gonna be driving a vehicle in the winter.

Ford does use low quality steel pn some parts and shackles being one of them. My truck has been in RI its whole life (98). Imagine the rust I have. Im getting rid of this ranger but I recently had my shackles snap and had to replace them. I went through so much gridning, heating up, sawzall blades. It was horrible. If only they had taken care of the truck.

Edit: RangerXtreme thats actually not true as far as the rust no matter what. I live in RI and as you could imagine I deal with a lot of snow. The trick is, take care of your trucks underbody. Once you get close to winter clean your truck (the best way is those auto washer bc they have nozzels under the vehicle when you go through). Then paint the whole under carriage. Its gonna be a little messy. Jack the truck up and get under there with some form of spray paint (not actualy spray paint but maybe a spray gun etc) and paint it all. If the weather warms a bit after it snows, wash the truck again underneath. After winter wash once more and apply another coat of what ever your applying if its bad. Otherwise this wroks really well. All my vehicles are rust free. I also pressure wash for a living and have alot of chemicals and what not to help it along but if you own a pressure washer they help in removing all the salt if you dont want to pay the auto washer. If you really want to make it fool proof. I have a Power Stroke I plow with. The under carriage of that truck I coated in the rhino liner stuff. I know it sounds crazy but that one time I coated the truck has lasted 4 years so far. You just have to do it right and not spray it on everything and expect results.

The 1990 Ranger I'm getting next weekend is a Michigan truck and only has 2 tiny spots of rust. I plan on grinding them out, rust-oleum priming, bondo gold body filler-ing them, and sanding. Think that'll do the trick. Luckily, the frame is fine.

x2. If you really want to do a little frame / underbody cleanup, just use a wire wheel. Sandblasting is overkill for this situation.

Actually, the U.P. doesn't really use salt in most areas because they get too much snow and it would cost them way too much. Most of the time it was just sand. This coming from my 5 years of going to school at Michigan Tech.

good to know, i was only in the area for a summer and just figured there was prob a lot from how many early 90s cars were just done, iowa seemed to be the worst offender to me, youd see cars driving around that the windows were visible thru the doors

5 years at a 4 year school eh? Hahaha, im just joking man im on a similar program. lol, i dont know of many people who graduate in under 5 years from Tech. Tough programs, and a one heck of a beautiful area. But your right on, most of the salt is in the tip of the mitt on down.

is the mtn biking behind the school still awesome?

Yes, the tech trails are still awesome!

yea tech and copper harbor were my faves when i lived out there

heres some shots from copper

some midwest riding a guy from CA enjoyed - Mountain Bike Forums

Awesome dude! hey i recognize the house! my friends lived right down from there! Hey did you ever run Fat Tire Fest up in copper Harbor? That is one heck of a race! If i decided to drive up this year it will be my 4th run, its a pretty extreme race for this state.