The problem is your likely to find headers for the 2.3 duratec BUT they are made for the engine in a tranverse mounted setup used in cars like the focus. The duratec was intended to be a front wheel drive car engine only. A header for a FWD setup wont fit a ranger with the engine mounted "the wrong way". Secondly the OEM manifold is pretty freaking good to begin with so your biggest gain is a pound or two in weight savings and maybe a few HP at the expensive of some torque and potential CEL issues since the upstream O2 sensor is mounted on the oem manifold. Aftermarket headers will move the O2 sensor and possibly confuse the computer without some expensive tuning. And all that for what? Realistically the most exhaust restriction is going to be in the cat and muffler not the manifold.

 

Good advice...Thanks very muchI'll stick to the simple cheap things like a K&N air filter replacement

 

Have had a MSDS header on my DT2.3 for 20k miles, never had a warning light show up. Could be some owners are removing one or both of the two cats. I upgraded both cats, added a Flowmaster super 50 and a Magnaflow 4L tail pipe. Prior to all that the Henry would never upshift on a grade, now he does

 

You may be right with people messing with the cats. The downstream O2 sensor while having ZERO to do with the way the engine runs is what the dumbass California emissions system uses to determine if the cats are functioning, if it shows more flow than normal it will set of a CEL. I build cat bypass systems for rear engine cars and always have to explain to customers there is no way to avoid the CEL but it wont effect how the engine operates.

Now if you screw around with the upstream O2 sensor not only will you get a CEL but your engine will run like a pile of garbage until you get it tuned to the new specs since the computer actually uses that sensor to set the injector pulse width. I see this issue happen when people install long tube headers that move the upstream O2 sensor drastically down stream of its original location.

My "toys" all use carbs so no computer tuning involved, all I ever need to do is adjust the mechanical timing and jet the carb when I do something like change headers or a cam. Anytime you screw with an EFI system to the slightest amount your not going to get the full potential of any mod without tuning the computer software which is the modern equivalent of re-jetting a carb. The computer will compensate to some degree but it will consider that compensation to be an error and bam... CEL.

Im rambling... Long day at work and way too many margaritas
​​​​​

 

Since this is a duratec performance thread I should note... Best mod I ever did to mine was to switch to 90 or 93 octane, depends whats available but if your hard and agressive on a D-tec they want that octane bump. RonD explained the whole knock sensor thing to me and to bastardize his explanation the duratec has 9.7:1 compression which is on the very very edge of needing a premium fuel so ford uses a knock sensor to retard the timing if it does knock. Retarding the timing saves the engine but kills performance. Run one grade higher in fuel and you keep the knock sensor from ever needing to screw you out of any performance. I ran my scanner in mode 6 on a long trip recently hauling a bunch of engine cores. With 93 octane it never adjusted the timing, on 87 the knock sensor pulled the timing out 4 degrees. I dunno what 4 degrees of timing really means in terms of power but personally I'd rather have the knock sensor just go eff itself and just pay the extra quarter a gallon for fuel that doesn't need it.

 

I heard about the MSDS header. Martin Schneider, who makes them, said that the header installs before the O2 sensor but "You will need to cancel the CEL, which will activate with (any brand) racing exhaust header". I am really new to all this and would really like to do the right thing without causing further problems. I hear you, Grunt, when you say you've had yours for 20 K miles with no problems...it is good to have experience from someone who has used them.....Perhaps Martin was referring to racing application which removes the Cat. It also makes sense to use high octane fuel as Apexkeeper advises.

 

What sucks about CA emissions is that it seems to get on a lot of trucks regardless of where you live. Henry was bought new in WA state but has CA emissions controls, wonder if a lot of trucks get it just because it's cheaper to do them all that way than not

 

Martin Schneider (MSDS) also asserts that with his header there will be "+10 to 12% increase in bhp over the stock restrictive manifold."
He also said that the header he supplies does not come with gasket or hardware. Grunt98444, what did you use for gasket and did you use hardware from the stock manifold?

Thanks again

DW

 

Used a new FelPro gasket and reused the hardware. Martin sure knows how to weld up a header, it fits like Ford put it there. I splurged for the Jet hot coating for cooler under hood temps not realizing the it would also allow the cats to get up to temp a lot quicker. Even in colder weather it goes into closed loop operation much faster saving a few mpg's in the process

 

I live in PA, all vehicles here are CA certified, never found one that wasn't. I just got my aunt a fiesta 8 months ago and last week she called me saying she got a letter in the mail from ford saying something was wrong. It was a notice over a California emissions item that caused them to offer an extended warranty on the evap system for an extra 10k miles... Didn't effect pa regs but since it was a California passed car they must warranty it.

 

Ford does list two different pullies for the alt, a larger one and the other smaller, the trick is to find why and which one you have.

 

"I upgraded both cats, added a Flowmaster super 50 and a Magnaflow 4L tail pipe".
Hi Grunt98444. I am about to order my MSDS header for my 2.3L 2011 5 speed manual shift trans. Thanks for the advice on the gasket.
For your Flowmaster super 50...what diameter in and out did you use? and what diameter is your Magnaflow tailpipe?
I see that the before cat pipes and the after cat pipes are greater diameter than the in/out diameter of the cats.

Thanks,

DW

 

:I had the work done (my apology if it seemed I did it from home) so don't know the inlet size (2/12?) or part number they used for muffler. Do know the shop had to add pipe between the cat and muffler to make it work..
Magnaflow no longer just sells the pipe (maybe contact them to order).
Did fine a Walker Uniflow pipe from Rock Auto that looks mandrel bent. .
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2011,ranger,4.0l+v6,1446675,exhaust+&+emissio n,tail+pipe,10023

 

So, I got my MSDS header from Martin Schneider...had it ceramic coated. I got a muffler shop in town to install it and it fit perfectly like it was made to... In 3 weeks I've had no CEL issues.
I dropped in a drop in K&H air filter at your suggestion and a​​​​​t Apexkeeper's suggestion I have been running with 94 Octane fuel.
I have been totally thrilled with the results...have noticed a significant increase in acceleration especially at ~3200 rpms...seems almost like a turbo effect between 3200 to 4200 rpms.
Next on the project list is to modify the after-cat equipment: 2 1/4" pipes, Magnaflow or Flowmaster muffler...
oh, and getting ready for winter, I replaced the open differential with a limited slip differential...

 

It's amazing what two changes can do for our trucks
Regarding exhaust the Flowmaster Super 50 is the quietest muffler they make in our sizes. That being said it does reveal an exhaust drone that you may or may not like. Have been thinking of adding a flex joint and their resonator to help with that.
Since your already running 94 octane you might think about the Jet Performance chip and airflow meter. Have the set and it really adds to the "turbo effect" you described.
I think you will find the limited slip differential helpful not only with winter weather but also in getting the new found grunt to the pavement

 

Mods list for 2.3
AFE power intake if anyone is still looking for one they make a really good one .
MSDS short headers fit really good and bolt right on
Diablo sport makes a tuner also I’m on the 91 tune

CFM makes a 67mm Throttlebody that is for the focus 2.3l that I will be trying out soon cuz it’s the same motor


. Hopefully it work .

 

Just figured I’d add my two cents here, since I work on Subarus all day, I would not purchase an STI new or used unless it was an 05. But that’s just because I happen to love that car. Otherwise I would buy a WRX and do some minor exhaust work, replace all of it but for the love of god not with equal length headers, add a tuning port and cold air intake plus a spray bar for the intercooler. With those mods you will be pushing well over the stock HP of the STI and you will still have some cash left (assuming you had the full amount for the STI and you do the work yourself) for fuel, which it will guzzle like no other 4 banger I have ever owned. Just for reference, in addition to the ranger I have; 2008 Outback sport, 2006 Outback 2.5i, 2005 Outback XT and a 2002 WRX with above mods and others pushing 308 AWHP when literally guzzling C17, 117octane leaded race fuel. If I drive it like it’s meant to be driven I can average 6-8 mpg city and 7-10 mpg highway, but it will definitely leave any ranger I have ever seen in the dust, both on and off road. When I don’t want performance out of the car I can crank up the coil overs and squeeze some 28 inch knock off super swampers on it and it will go places that my jeeps and lifted Toyotas would never dream of going. The advantage of symmetrical all wheel drive.

 

Generally all ICE engines come with headers, otherwise they are awfully loud, if they will even run at all without any back pressure. Sorry for the sarcastic reply but I couldn’t help it.

 

Hi there, been searching the site lots of great info here.

I’m building a 1927 model t touring with a 85 year young family friend.

we are using 2006 ranger Duratec 2.3 and the auto trans. I have the fully harness inc column with key

I’ve built a 1 5/8 header and 2.5” exhaust without cats.

questions for the group are :

1. Recommendations for inline fuel pump as we are limited in the tank size and height.

2. any way to bypass the pass key so we can just wire up a standard hot rod type key

3. any basic performance mods or emissions deletes that we can do while we are putting the car


together.