2.3l ranger "full" turbo kit - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


DOHC - 2.3L Duratec / Mazda L Engines Discussions and Topics specific to the Duratec 4 cylinder engines

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Old 07-05-2011
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2.3l ranger "full" turbo kit

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Old 07-05-2011
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They only thing I've ever seen legit on those type kits is the manifold and turbo. For a stock 2.3/2.5 you would have to tap a hole in the side of the block for the oil line to the turbo. Also you can't run much boost with stock pistons (too high of compression ratio). To add a turbo to the 2.3/2.5 you just about have to build it up or swap in a mid 80s 2.3 from an SVO mustang, tbird, merkur xr4ti, and i think there was a cougar that had one.

Check out this site for more info:
http://turborangerforums.com/

The guy that started it is legit. I think he had his truck running low 13s high 12s in the quarter. He built his engine with about 3000 dollars. But there are so many how to's on that sight that you can't go wrong.

NOTE that kit is most likely for the SOHC Rangers not the Duratec DOHC
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Old 07-05-2011
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Originally Posted by sheltonfilms View Post
They only thing I've ever seen legit on those type kits is the manifold and turbo. For a stock 2.3/2.5 you would have to tap a hole in the side of the block for the oil line to the turbo. Also you can't run much boost with stock pistons (too high of compression ratio). To add a turbo to the 2.3/2.5 you just about have to build it up or swap in a mid 80s 2.3 from an SVO mustang, tbird, merkur xr4ti, and i think there was a cougar that had one.

Check out this site for more info:
http://turborangerforums.com/

The guy that started it is legit. I think he had his truck running low 13s high 12s in the quarter. He built his engine with about 3000 dollars. But there are so many how to's on that sight that you can't go wrong.

NOTE that kit is most likely for the SOHC Rangers not the Duratec DOHC
Why tap the block? Sandwhich plate for the feed line, and tap the oil pan, for the drain line. And ive saw stock blocks take 10lbs, but the psi dont really matter. just because your pusing 4954950 lbs of boost, doesnt mean your making 239489023849hp .. Its all in proper turbo sizing for your application!
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Old 07-05-2011
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The cast pistons/rods are usually the first to go under boost on a stock block. You can swap in the forged internals from the early turbo cars and turbo your truck just fine (a lima engine truck that is).

Tap for oil by the back of the head where the oil pressure sending unit is located. No idea wtf a 'sandwhich' plate feed line is. Taping the block is ideal as you want the oil drain from the turbo to be above the oil line in the pan. Some do tap the pan, but it isn't right.
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Old 07-05-2011
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Originally Posted by evilclown312 View Post
Why tap the block? Sandwhich plate for the feed line, and tap the oil pan, for the drain line. And ive saw stock blocks take 10lbs, but the psi dont really matter. just because your pusing 4954950 lbs of boost, doesnt mean your making 239489023849hp .. Its all in proper turbo sizing for your application!
Lol interesting numbers.
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Old 07-07-2011
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Originally Posted by theelcaminoman View Post
Lol interesting numbers.
hahaha

and from what ive seen so far it seems turboing my duratec would be a pretty serious investment, requiring much more than just turbo parts let alone a bolt on kit?
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Old 07-07-2011
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YES. and that 'kit' you linked is for the lima engines anyways. won't work at all on your duratec. only one guy i know of has turbo'd a duratec...
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Old 07-07-2011
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thats pretty sweet
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Old 07-07-2011
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oh well it woulda been expensive anyway lol
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Old 07-08-2011
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Yea, it seems supercharger kits are easier to come by Iv realized. And cheaper. For my 4.0 SOHC, a supercharger is roughly $2500 with RP Casters kit and a turbo could be 3 grand plus depending what route I went
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