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Can anyone help. My ranger is a 2002, 2.3L (I think it’s a duratech) with about 60,000 miles on it. A few weeks ago I was driving and it gave a P1432 code. I read the code, and reset while driving, and then looked at the real time data. The water temperature was 260 degrees (on the Actron scanner), I turned on the heat, rolled down the windows and it lowered a little. The Dash gauge showed “normal” in the temperature range and other than the code, I had no problems with the truck.
Next day I bought a thermostat ($140.00) and replaced it, but when I drove it the temperature rapidly rose to 260 degrees again. I returned the thermostat for a replacement, put it in and still got 260 degrees on the scanner, but always “normal” on the dash gauge.
I called a mechanic in my home town 150 miles away, and he said bring it to him, he’d look at it. I removed the new thermostat, put the old casing on without the thermostat and was able to drive it home easily; in fact it even gave me a code that the temperature was too cold.
After paying 500 for diagnostics and a new water pump he said it was working (and I trust this guy). I drove it and within about six miles I again got 260 degrees on my scanner. I drove it 150 to my job, drove it around a week and in all about 400 miles and it was 260 degrees, never hotter. I checked the lower radiator hose and it was always cold, not cool but as cold as the outside air. I panicked and removed the new thermostat and now am running just the housing until I find out if this is normal or not.
I’m convinced now that the scanner is reading a temperature from somewhere other than the thermostat, probably in a cylinder head or something hot, I just can’t figure out why my lower hose remains so cold (even after a 150 mile drive with the whole thermostat on). It can’t be overheating because I was able to drive it 150 miles, but I’m afraid to mess it up.
Does anyone know how the 2.3L thermostat works, does the electrical connection just read temperature, or does it assist in opening the thermostat? When I remove the inside of the Thermostat the dash gauge is inoperative. Has anyone looked at their coolant temperature using an Actron Scanner, and does it stay around 260 degrees? The truck drives fine with the thermostat installed but reads very hot on the scanner. The upper hoses are very hot, but the lower remains very cold (to the touch), is this normal or am I just paranoid?
Appreciate any help anyone might be able to give on this one, I’m simply stumped.
The truck drives fine with the thermostat installed but reads very hot on the scanner. The upper hoses are very hot, but the lower remains very cold (to the touch), is this normal or am I just paranoid?
Appreciate any help anyone might be able to give on this one, I’m simply stumped.
Usually when the upper hose is hot and the lower hose is cold this is normally a sign of a clogged radiator... or something in your coolant system that is blocking the coolant from circulating throughout the motor. (like your heater core or something) 260 degrees is VERY hot in my book i would not drive my truck if it was reading 260 on the temp gague. check your radiator.
this should give you more of an understanding about it.
but what i did is put a 2004 thermostat for about 35 dollars in my truck (01 -03 have the electronic thermostats) and my ecm temp is now about 224.
this should give you more of an understanding about it.
but what i did is put a 2004 thermostat for about 35 dollars in my truck (01 -03 have the electronic thermostats) and my ecm temp is now about 224.
Froggie, if you have a heated thermostat did you use a resistor in the connector? If so, what size resistor was that and did it affect how your Ranger runs?
Can anyone help. My ranger is a 2002, 2.3L (I think it’s a duratech) with about 60,000 miles on it. A few weeks ago I was driving and it gave a P1432 code. I read the code, and reset while driving, and then looked at the real time data. The water temperature was 260 degrees (on the Actron scanner), I turned on the heat, rolled down the windows and it lowered a little. The Dash gauge showed “normal” in the temperature range and other than the code, I had no problems with the truck.
Next day I bought a thermostat ($140.00) and replaced it, but when I drove it the temperature rapidly rose to 260 degrees again. I returned the thermostat for a replacement, put it in and still got 260 degrees on the scanner, but always “normal” on the dash gauge.
I called a mechanic in my home town 150 miles away, and he said bring it to him, he’d look at it. I removed the new thermostat, put the old casing on without the thermostat and was able to drive it home easily; in fact it even gave me a code that the temperature was too cold.
After paying 500 for diagnostics and a new water pump he said it was working (and I trust this guy). I drove it and within about six miles I again got 260 degrees on my scanner. I drove it 150 to my job, drove it around a week and in all about 400 miles and it was 260 degrees, never hotter. I checked the lower radiator hose and it was always cold, not cool but as cold as the outside air. I panicked and removed the new thermostat and now am running just the housing until I find out if this is normal or not.
I’m convinced now that the scanner is reading a temperature from somewhere other than the thermostat, probably in a cylinder head or something hot, I just can’t figure out why my lower hose remains so cold (even after a 150 mile drive with the whole thermostat on). It can’t be overheating because I was able to drive it 150 miles, but I’m afraid to mess it up.
Does anyone know how the 2.3L thermostat works, does the electrical connection just read temperature, or does it assist in opening the thermostat? When I remove the inside of the Thermostat the dash gauge is inoperative. Has anyone looked at their coolant temperature using an Actron Scanner, and does it stay around 260 degrees? The truck drives fine with the thermostat installed but reads very hot on the scanner. The upper hoses are very hot, but the lower remains very cold (to the touch), is this normal or am I just paranoid?
Appreciate any help anyone might be able to give on this one, I’m simply stumped.
My 2001 Ranger 4x2 2.3l Has been running at 240-260 since the day I got it. (11 years ago, 140k miles ago)... I just assumed it ran that high normally!
Preaching about an issue I have had with 3+ rangers. It is not right, but is correct. It says 260, but I think it is reading 60+, it's stupid and freaks me out too, but it seems to be common in all my 01 to 03s I've owned. I just don't think the read out is compatible with scan type gauges.
Can anyone help. My ranger is a 2002, 2.3L (I think it’s a duratech) with about 60,000 miles on it. A few weeks ago I was driving and it gave a P1432 code. I read the code, and reset while driving, and then looked at the real time data. The water temperature was 260 degrees (on the Actron scanner), I turned on the heat, rolled down the windows and it lowered a little. The Dash gauge showed “normal” in the temperature range and other than the code, I had no problems with the truck.
Next day I bought a thermostat ($140.00) and replaced it, but when I drove it the temperature rapidly rose to 260 degrees again. I returned the thermostat for a replacement, put it in and still got 260 degrees on the scanner, but always “normal” on the dash gauge.
I called a mechanic in my home town 150 miles away, and he said bring it to him, he’d look at it. I removed the new thermostat, put the old casing on without the thermostat and was able to drive it home easily; in fact it even gave me a code that the temperature was too cold.
After paying 500 for diagnostics and a new water pump he said it was working (and I trust this guy). I drove it and within about six miles I again got 260 degrees on my scanner. I drove it 150 to my job, drove it around a week and in all about 400 miles and it was 260 degrees, never hotter. I checked the lower radiator hose and it was always cold, not cool but as cold as the outside air. I panicked and removed the new thermostat and now am running just the housing until I find out if this is normal or not.
I’m convinced now that the scanner is reading a temperature from somewhere other than the thermostat, probably in a cylinder head or something hot, I just can’t figure out why my lower hose remains so cold (even after a 150 mile drive with the whole thermostat on). It can’t be overheating because I was able to drive it 150 miles, but I’m afraid to mess it up.
Does anyone know how the 2.3L thermostat works, does the electrical connection just read temperature, or does it assist in opening the thermostat? When I remove the inside of the Thermostat the dash gauge is inoperative. Has anyone looked at their coolant temperature using an Actron Scanner, and does it stay around 260 degrees? The truck drives fine with the thermostat installed but reads very hot on the scanner. The upper hoses are very hot, but the lower remains very cold (to the touch), is this normal or am I just paranoid?
Appreciate any help anyone might be able to give on this one, I’m simply stumped.
Mine did the same thing! I HAVE THE Actron scan tool. As soon as I started it it was reading like 242. then it went up to about 260. I think the scanner isn't deciphering the code right. I MIGHT TRY A THERMOCOUPLE TO VERIFY. I'll also try to check it first thing when I started it after sitting a while.
Like most people are reporting 250 to 260... also the code maybe irrelevant (w/ no research)
All rangers I have owned have always seemed to read too high like you mention. I believe whatever outputs the sensor is putting out isn't being computed/scaled properly by most/all scanners. Scan gauge and ELM327 reported 250+ on the few I have scanned. Fortunately and unfortunately I believe you don't have a problem and you spent time and money for something that may be a non-issue.
I know this is an old thread but just in case if anybody else comes across this issue and comes across this thread, I know for certain that those temperatures are in fact correct. The 2.3 l engine uses a cylinder head temperature sensor which actually measures metal temperature and not coolant temperature which is why it shows 230 to 260 roughly for the engine temperature. The cylinder head temperature is actually the sensor that communicates with the PCM as well that's why when you use your scan tools it will show that as your temperature. It is perfectly normal to run at that temperature if you get over 260 then I would be concerned.
If anyone is still curious as to what size resistor is needed for the thermostat housing heater when converting to the newer mechanical style thermostat. I just did mine 3 days ago. I used a 10k resistor and soldered it to the old housing connector. No issues, and no cel.
Hey all, I have an '02 Ranger XLT with the 2.3L Duratec DOHV engine. I installed a new water pump and a new ELECTRIC thermostat housing and straight away there is a leak at the thermostat housing. I did not use any kind of gasket sealant at all because several You Tube videos showed just a cleaning around the mounting area and then merely boldting the new one on. BUT!!! None of these said thermostat housing videos showed the ELECTRIC thermostat housing. Was I wrong in not putting a coating of Permatex or some other gasket product onto the new thermostat housing? The "gasket" is as thin and flimsy as a fruit roll-up or the nearly worthless gaskets that come on most Made in China Dollar Store flashlights. It also says to tighten the thermostat housing to 89 inch pounds which is roughly 7.5 foot pounds. I know the engine block is aluminum and all, but 7.5 foot pounds seems pretty wimpy for all that high temperature water.rushing through. Also, I believe that I have a double radiator or something because I hear what sound like two electric fans, yet I cannot see them so they must be hidden by the radiator shroud. I want to remove the housing to inspect it and would appreciate any feedback on this issue. The main question is GASKET SEALANT or NO GASKET SEALANT, and since the truck is 23 years old, should I just trust my instinct when I tighten the three 8mm bolts? I have never used a torque wrench for the numerous spark plug replacemets and it still gets 24 MPG so I think I can judge the proper tightness. Last but not least, are there any steps to take to insure that the thermostat will open and close properly? The old one murdered three Expansion Reservoirs in the last 7 years.
Hey Cheaper2keeper, check to insure you didn't pinch or dislodge the gasket on the thermostat housing. You shouldn't need any sealant or rtv on the housing it should seal fine on it's own. As far as torque, 89in lbs is correct. Don't over tighten it. It could also cause the thermostat housing to distort and start leaking. As far as the cooling fans you should have one electric fan which operates with your air conditioning and then you should also have the clutch fan. And the expansion tanks due to them being plastic just tend to not hold up at all. I've been through several on my truck as well before I upgraded to an aluminum one.
Hey all, I have an '02 Ranger XLT with the 2.3L Duratec DOHV engine. I installed a new water pump and a new ELECTRIC thermostat housing and straight away there is a leak at the thermostat housing. I did not use any kind of gasket sealant at all because several You Tube videos showed just a cleaning around the mounting area and then merely boldting the new one on. BUT!!! None of these said thermostat housing videos showed the ELECTRIC thermostat housing. Was I wrong in not putting a coating of Permatex or some other gasket product onto the new thermostat housing? The "gasket" is as thin and flimsy as a fruit roll-up or the nearly worthless gaskets that come on most Made in China Dollar Store flashlights. It also says to tighten the thermostat housing to 89 inch pounds which is roughly 7.5 foot pounds. I know the engine block is aluminum and all, but 7.5 foot pounds seems pretty wimpy for all that high temperature water.rushing through. Also, I believe that I have a double radiator or something because I hear what sound like two electric fans, yet I cannot see them so they must be hidden by the radiator shroud. I want to remove the housing to inspect it and would appreciate any feedback on this issue. The main question is GASKET SEALANT or NO GASKET SEALANT, and since the truck is 23 years old, should I just trust my instinct when I tighten the three 8mm bolts? I have never used a torque wrench for the numerous spark plug replacemets and it still gets 24 MPG so I think I can judge the proper tightness. Last but not least, are there any steps to take to insure that the thermostat will open and close properly? The old one murdered three Expansion Reservoirs in the last 7 years.
just need to make sure you torque it correctly and a crisscross pattern and I’ve never had one leak
