D23 DOHC Cylinder Head Removal & Installation - Page 2 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


DOHC - 2.3L Duratec / Mazda L Engines Discussions and Topics specific to the Duratec 4 cylinder engines

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  #26  
Old 02-13-2016
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REASSEMBLY
As everyone knows, taking things apart is the easy end of the work. Now starts the hard part.

Step 18: Reinstall components on the head with new gaskets.
18.1 Install EGR valve
18.2 Install EGR tube
18.3 Install water neck.

Last edited by Tanker3278; 02-14-2016 at 01:30 AM.
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  #27  
Old 02-13-2016
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Step 19: Put head back on block & torque bolts.
You’ll need your friend to help you again on this one.

19.1 Put those wood blocks back on top of your engine. Sit your head on them and reconnect those two hoses at the back by the firewall.
19.2 Lift up the head and have your buddy remove the wood blocks, wipe off the deck one last time, and put the new head gasket on the block.
19.3 Put the head down, line up the dowels, and start putting the head bolts in the holes.
19.4 Start with the two center bolts and work your way to the outside, run them down finger tight.
19.5 Use your torque wrench and finish the torqueing sequence. I used the following page for torque specs.
2.0 / 2.3 / 2.5 Specifications - Ford Ranger Forum

Last edited by Tanker3278; 02-14-2016 at 01:31 AM.
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  #28  
Old 02-13-2016
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Step 20: Install cams

20.1 Use assembly lube or some other type of grease and coat all the lobes on the cams and both sides of all the journals.




20.2 Place cams on head and make sure the #1 lobes are facing up, 45 degrees to the inside.
20.3 Put the bar that came with the tool set in the slot at the back of the cams to keep them locked in proper alignment while you’re working. Notice it says “REMOVE BEFORE FINAL TIGHTENING.” Remember: the crank is locked, and now your cams are going to be locked.
20.4 Torque down the cam caps. You can pull the bar out of the back of the cams now if you want, I left mine in till I had the harmonic balancer on and didn’t have to worry about timing anymore.

Last edited by Tanker3278; 02-14-2016 at 01:40 AM.
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  #29  
Old 02-13-2016
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Step 21: Install timing chain.
If you were not able to get the tools, make for damn sure your marks line up. I had originally intended to do it without the locking tools (that's why you see the marks on my chain), but ended up having to buy the tools because the machine shop erased my marks on my cam sprockets.

21.1 Get the chain on the teeth of the cam sprockets and crank sprocket. Remember the crank sprocket is lose and will remain that way until you torque down the harmonic balancer later on. Make sure there is as little slack in the chain between the cam gears and down the driver’s side as possible. You’ll be able to turn the crank sprocket to get it onto the chain if needed.
21.2 Bolt the rigid chain guide back onto the driver’s side.
21.3 Mount the passenger side chain guide back on the dowel at the top.


21.4 Bolt the chain tensioner back on and unlock it – use a screwdriver to ease the plunger forward to prevent it from slamming forward and jerking the timing chain out of correct timing.

Last edited by Tanker3278; 02-20-2016 at 07:38 AM.
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  #30  
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Step 22: Prep and install timing cover

22.1 Clean up your timing cover mating surfaces. Clean all the old sealant out of the grooves in the cover.



22.2 Remove the old front main oil seal.
22.3 I used the old oil seal to help put the new one in. Flat side faces out. I flipped the old around so it was flat-side-to-flat-side and then used a hammer to tapping down flush. Use some fresh oil and coat the inside of the seal.


22.4 Put a small bead of RTV on all the internal bolt holes and around the outside of the timing cover. Let it sit for a while so it starts to cure a little and then put the timing cover on.


22.5 Put the timing cover back on and start putting the bolts back in. Do not forget to put the bolt back in the hole just above the fan pulley – I forgot to put that one back in and ended up dumping oil all over my serpentine belt (which threw it all over my engine bay).


22.6 Use some assembly lube and coat the crank snout as preparation for the harmonic balancer.

Last edited by Tanker3278; 02-20-2016 at 07:54 AM.
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  #31  
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Step 23: Install Harmonic Balancer/Crank Pulley
I had 2 cracks in mine. The big one in the outer ring is easy to see in this picture, the smaller one on the spoke is not. I had to get a new one.
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23.1 Remember the alignment hole in the bottom spoke of the pulley. Put the shim back on the crank snout, then the pulley.
23.2 Put the bolt from the timing cover back in the alignment hole to lock the pulley in place then torque the pulley bolt down, 85 lb-ft. Now your timing is locked. Better hope its right.

Last edited by Tanker3278; 02-20-2016 at 07:47 AM.
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  #32  
Old 02-13-2016
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Step 24: Unlock rotating assembly and check for valve clearance.

24.1 Remove the bar from the back of the cams if you haven’t already.
24.2 Remove the tool from the passenger side of the engine.
24.3 Remove the timing cover bolt from the pulley (don’t put it back in the timing cover till after the next step). Your rotating assembly is free to be turned now.
24.4 Hand-turn the crank one full 360-degree turn to ensure the pistons aren’t going to hit the valves. If it doesn’t – you’re good to proceed. If not – you just wasted a head gasket and are going to have to pull the head again.
24.5 Line up the hole in the pulley and put the bolt back in just to make sure the crank is aligned correctly.
24.6 Put the Crank Position Sensor back on its mount at the lower passenger side and your timing issues are completed.

Last edited by Tanker3278; 02-14-2016 at 09:37 AM.
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  #33  
Old 02-13-2016
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Step 25: Rest of reassembly
The rest of reassembly is reverse order of disassembly.

25.1 Remount exhaust manifold and coolant bypass hose.
25.2 Accessory bracket on passenger side.
25.3 AC Compressor & Alternator
25.4 Fuel Injectors
25.5 Radiator & hoses
25.6 Fan Shroud & E-Fan
25.7 Fan-clutch
25.8 Power steering pump reservoir
25.9 Intake manifold & valve cover
25.10 Power steering pump
25.11 Serpentine belt
25.12 Air tube
25.13 Refill coolant
25.14 Do an oil change
25.15 Battery

Then hold your breath and go for a start. Mine cranked off first try because I didn’t bleed the pressure out of the fuel system.
It squealed for a second a second till the oil got pumped up to the cams.
This is also when I found out which coolant line I forgot to connect. Fortunately it was only one – easy to get to on the heater control valve.

Last edited by Tanker3278; 02-20-2016 at 07:51 AM.
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  #34  
Old 02-14-2016
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Guys, I traded Red Rover for a bigger battlewagon so this is my last adventure in Ranger land.

I'm now driving USS JimmyH (CGN-77). You know, triple-hull, 4 turrets with 16" rifles, AEGIS, more missiles than any sane designer would try to mount, nuke powered steam-turbines, 4 variable-pitch screws, the whole works.
Also known as 2005 F350 Crewcab 6.0 powerstroke.

Last edited by Tanker3278; 02-20-2016 at 07:52 AM.
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