This engine likes to run between 255-70
at 280 the engine begins to retard ignition timing
at 295 it enters limp mode
the engine will run at 280 safely
the engine likes 89 octane best at sea level as proven from dyno tests on stock motors between 2001 and 2007
if you remove any electronics you have to (I CAN NOT STRESS ENOUGH) place in a form of resistance otherwise idle will increase and everything else like injector will increase witch will cause damage
the engine performs the best with 10w-30 in the summer and 5w-20 in the winter
if you plan to run 4000 rpm+ only use Royal purple 5w20-15w-40 or shell rotella 15w-40 ( in order to run the shell oil you must remove the cats and EGR no exceptions)
this motor likes oil changes every 3800-4200 miles
this motor will push 65 psi oil starting at 4600 do not be afraid to rev this motor
this motor will comfortably rev to 7300 and make power there redline stock is 7500 (7100 for non forged crank models)
the motor will produce with boost at 4800 281hp and 304lbs torque or 313hp at 6800rpm with 17 psi (with valve springs and eagle rods, do not go over that level until pistons are forged)
the motor on 5 psi will make an extra 60 hp and 55-75lbs torque depending on rpm boost band
do not exceed 80 shot of nitrous wet or dry period on stock internals regardless of the forged or cast crank the pistons and rods are the weak points
4.10 to 4.88 allow for the best performance 3.55 is perfect for fuel econemy as mpg does not start to get massively harmed until 2700 rpm
peak torque stock is at 4750 rpm
peak hp is at 5400 rpm
do not put a cold air intake
cut up the stock box and run straight tubing to the intake, make sure to add a vacuum can or bottle or you WILL have idle and stalling issues
Run a 4l v6 rad if you plan to run past 3500 rpm + or towing
DO NOT LET IT RUN OUT OF OIL OR YOUR CHAIN CAN LOCK OR CREATE PRESSURE AND IF YOUR CAM(S) STOP YOUR ENGINE WILL BLOW UP IT IS AN INTERFERENCE DESIGN AND IS 9.7:1 COMP STOCK, will be a massive bang
The stock injectors are 24LB/HR and are good for about 335hp
the stock maf is good for about 365 hp
the intake manifold once the runner flaps are deleted will allow for 280 hp or 215 hp N/A
Look at 08+ 2.0 miatas for ranger parts most work
Perfect throttle body size is 62mm after that its all throttle response and no gain
Run = diameter pipes from the air box (can port out) to the throttle body
Make sure you have a 1.25" larger 6" long section that drops back down to the respective intake size as this will save you on more stalling problems
the ranger stock exhaust is fine up to 225 hp after that it will crack and you loose power this motor relies on having clean flow
perfect size exhaust for NA is 2.5" to 2.75"
Having custom fabbed 2 to 1 header is a huge gain by having it run as true duals with an H pipe for low end torque and x pipe for topend (ford 300 cid efi manifolds are a perfect example)
Wrap the exhaust and shield the engine bay from the heat, lower temps means the engine will be more efficient and require less gas for the same power
unplug the battery with the crank position sensor placed as high as possible, re plug the battery after an hour and run the engine, then move the crank position sensor as far down as possible witch will net you 38 degrees total timing and 20 degrees base timing witch this motor likes
you can make a lot of power by just moving the intake and exhaust cam degrees, 40 degrees is the max before you have piston to valve issues, make sure to slowly crank the engine to keep tolerances in check, if the piston bumps a valve while rotating by hand move cam back 3 degrees ( my ranger has 40 degrees total overlap and has 11.8:1 compression when at high rpm, unfortunately 1500 and below torque is non existent)
doing this will require you to run a vacuum pump in order to run brakes ad AC
assuming you modified the cams im assuming you have 0 back pressure or gutted cats and zero emissions tech otherwise your missing out on about 15-20 hp
The duratec 2.3l injectors are good up to 8300 rpm where the duratec stops making power with all then necessary internals and tuning
the stock ecm is tunable using the quarter horse for 2004 and older, on 05 up youll need to use sct x4 flasher
putting a 2.5l duratec head on and deleting the vct will allow for better throttle response and if ported and polished an increase in 3-8hp
the perfect afr for fuel economy on this motor is 14.9:1 idle and mild bumps to 2000 rpm then point .2 bumps below so normal would be 13.8 so youll bump to 14.0, this will net better economy at the expense of hp and torque
try and keep afr at 13.8 through the band til redline, if you modify the cam timing you can bring afr to 13.2
run stock copper plugs for the best economy or platnum colder plugs when running top end
run 2 or 3 steps colder when cam timing is modified to make up for the extra air flow at top end
the stock ignition is very accurate and is just fine
if you want a mild boost in performance without any tuning you can use an Aisin AMR 500 supercharger and run 2.1:1 pulley and will net maybe 2.3-3 lbs boost, make sure maf sits behind the super not before it, no need for an intercooler
anything 9 psi up will require an intercooler
dry sump oil pan will help throttle response and reduce drag on the engine
running an electric pump and using a water pump delete will reduce more drag
you can run an underdrive on the power steering and reduce even more drag
delete the entire AC
if you put around softly you can get away with 5-6k oil changes
racing it or towing just as a reminder will need 3500-4500 oil changes
meth injection is a plus for 30 hp after that the computer will not compensate anymore (hence the amr 500 being a viable option)
if you change the cam timing remove the cam position sensor or you'll hit a no start situation due to gas going out the exhaust
focus stage 1 cams will work on the ranger stock but you must retard the intake 12 degrees still delete the cam sensor
burton power uk is your friend for ranger performance under the escort section of duratec like true long tube headers


https://www.burtonpower.com/parts-by...oduct_area=591

any questions regarding the duratec 2.3 can be asked here if this can maybe have this stickied as these are some of the big things for the ranger motor that i have found

 

Do you have a pic of the dynos you mentioned in another thread about the exhaust ****?

And can you elaborate on that little supercharger?

I've been looking for something like that without going full turbo. Do you think it could push 4-5 psi with a smaller pulley. I'm new to FI, so I'd like to boost without going full turbo just yet

 

The supercharger is the AMR 500 and with the testing that has been done, it doesn't create extra pressure in the cylnders but with a huge amount of overlap works the same as how the two stroke Detroit's blower system works, witch is why they made so much power off such simple designs, I'll get you some fresh Dyno sheets this Saturday I'm in the process of switching the rods out because I bent one, I raced a v6 Challenger one and at 7400 Rpm lost al lot of power, had the head resurfaced and block honed 1 thou, but I'll run the same tune as rn and ill put the stick exhuast system in and see how big the difference is and post the sheets here first, PM me if you want to see the ranger in person can find a time and you can come directly to me, this goes for anyone trying to get power out if a 2.3, also big news, I'm entering in NASAaz to go for my competition license and race the rangers with the duratec

 

I'll look into the Detroit blower system and learn more about it.

I'm in the process of frame swapping my truck so im doing stuff with the engine while it's out.

Nothing too crazy, but I'll take suggestions! I've been trying to get a 04+ exhaust manifold because it flows better, but the junkyard lady won't sell me hers. There was a fwd 2.3 06 fusion I was looking at to see if it's the same manifold, but I doubt it'd work.

Im swapping on a valve cover from a 08 2.0 focus here soon to swap to coil on plug and free up room in the engine bay.

 

Take your intake cam and advance the stock cam about 10 degrees, you'll lose out a little on bottom end but will gain about 30 in the topend, remember this motor makes HP almost linearly because of its flat torque curve and it onlyakes more power with airflow really, delete the imrc and all emmissions devices to see the best effect, what year of ranger do you have, I can send you a delete file for all the emissions junk free

 

Once you you advance it by hand crank it over and see if it locks up

 

If it locks up just retard the cam by 1-3 degrees

 

It's funny you mention deleting the imrc. I let my ex SIL drive it for a week and this happened. First video is when I got it back.


Second video is after I deleted that **** and plugged the holes.

I still need to figure out why my brand new alt is charging at 17.5v,yet tests out fine on the machine. Pulling one tomorrow and testing it out to see if it's the alternator.

And I've got an 02 2.3(duh lol)

 

What are you tuning with? Sct or something? Or are you running a standalone

 

I'm running quarter horse to both test and flash my pcm, the bin file is from a 2005 ranger that has no Pat's so I can run all my stuff, I can send you bin files if you buy a jaybird I can send you bin files, just need to know whats been or planned and go from there as well as 2004 rangers down will work with the jaybird, sct will do 05-11

 

I see what you mean, I was running stock class at NASAAZ and imrc went out

Also delete that intake rubber pipe and do something like in my video here


That will net you 3-4 HP max and a definite 1-2 mpg gain, also have to make sure piping remains the same as first hole and have a 1/2" diameter larger 4" pipe to resonate that way the engine runs smoothly, this will improve throttle response mostly and drop your rpms faster

I left the flap rod in place but removed the flaps themselves because I was still at the track, for the egr you'll want to disconnect it from the manifold by clipping the egr pipe and capping it off and for the side that enters the engine, threadlocker and a bolt that will go in

 

I thought about the EGR delete, and the IAC delete as well, and just set the throttle screw up a bit higher, but I'm not ******* around with too much until I know what I want to do with the truck. I know what the body and interior is going to be, just not the engine stuff.

It's mostly going to be a daily , but I'd like it to have some ***** when needed. I'm up in Maine,so I need to pass visual inspections, so I don't need cats, but the shells need to be there.

 

Do not remove the IAC it can seriously screw with your system even tuned, well then leave the cam alone, what you can do is a good tune, larger inwctors (36lb) and tune for good low end and mpg and tune for great power up high

 

What year is your truck? Id almost consider having you send me the files for the 05 PCM so I can swap thermostats to the newer electric one.
​​i need to figure out if anything different is involved with that swap first

 

So, bad news for the 2.3 duratec but food for thought, buy a high volume oil pump that sits externally and flows to the stock port for oil, I blew my topend out because I couldn't keep pressure high enough to lubricate the pistons and the cylnders all have scars and such that need to be milled out maybe 30 thou, this is if you plan on making more than 280+ HP or go above 8300 Rpm, don't know witch caused it but my Dyno run lead to a total loss of compression even with 13psi boost, so remember, if your going to rev past 7650 high volume pump period, if your pushing high boost, high volume pump, mind you guys I was running Rotella T6 15-40 because it can take the heat, I've had problems with 5-20 and some 10-30 oils, so to save time and money I cannot stress enough at these levels get a very high volume pump, anything that can maintain 75-85 psi at 7650 Rpm + with boost

 

this is the mazda speed3/6 2.3 turbo manifold, you have to relocate or delete the ac and remove the entire ac box fan and heater core connections and re locate all of it if you want ac/heat, i recommend that you use 800 grit sand paper to sand down all three surfaces for a better seal, im going to also be annealing this one as along with the destruction of the 2.3, cracked the exhaust aswell, so this one will bolt to the 2.5 just im going to be following those precautions aswell as heat wrapping

 

you will need to have it mounted to the engine properly and then weld the seems together with a tack weld, once its solid take it off and have a shim in between welded on for structural rigidity, this will allow you have a better seal, it is an absolute must if you want to not go through head gaskets

 

The 2.7L stroker duratec with a turbo from Amazon

So my team bought the kit from esslinger and it now has a total displacement of 2730 cc

The exhuast is the Mazda speed 6 turbo from the mid 2000s, it j
Uses somewhat the same bolt pattern but there's a single spot that either needs to be welded or have a washer placed to hold it down, like how the Ford 300 uses washers to hold both the intake and exhaust down

I'm looking to push 26 pounds into the motor at 6000rpm
And 10 pounds at 2800

The Mazda Miata 6 speed transmission will bolt up just need to cut into the floor board a little bit, I don't remember if it was a tad longer or shorter but it's not that big of an issue, the computer program is from a 2005 without any security because it was painful

I ripped the code from it and basically imported it over to the 2002 computer witch uses the J3 port, I'm going to be dropping some designs soon that will help everyone with the streamlining of installing a turbo duratec into their ranger without any body modifications, pure bolt on! How many of you are excited for because I know I am, you might see project 23 out racing, well keep everyone updated as much as possible

 

I don't remember If I responded to this one yet I don't remember this response, my truck is an 01 November but considered 2002, you'll run the same ecu if you have a 2004 or older pcm that uses the J3 port that everything connects to, I do have some updates to make to the post because I found some awesome stuff, I also bought an esslinger 2.7l stroker kit lol, and I got ahold of a turbo from a small turbo diesel and made it fit onto the Mazda exhuast manifold but pm me for every detail you need for the tune and upgrades, these engines are also very very very picking on ignition timing like where ford has it it can reach 44 degrees total and I tested that and it is for fuel econemy and emission but wow does it make power when you set all out at 36 degrease but emissions is awful but great power NA

 

This is where I'm at currently

 

Turbo with the Mazda speed 6 exhaust on the 2.7L stroker

 

Picture 2 of welded turbo and exhaust

 

 

Any extra questions just ask me in this topic

 

im still working on the tune, thank you guys for all the help since when i started, i cant go on without making sure that the people who helped get this going were huge support and i would likely never have gotten here without, im gonna record a fully live dyno session from computer tune t the ranger to final dyno results, my fingers are crossed for 365 hp and 365 tq but definitely at least 300hp because i raced my buddies 4.6 cobra and won