Originally Posted by The_Paynemaler

I've asked this question elsewhere and haven't gotten a response and though maybe this thread could be a good place because y'all seem pretty knowledgeable on the 2.3 Duratec. I'm having issues with the plug on the front of the intake on my 2002 Duratec by the runner flaps, and was wondering if I could put an 04-11 intake manifold on with no issues? I saw someone in a different forum thread say cams, pcm, and exhaust manifold need replaced as well but that doesn't make sense to me. Does anyone here have experience or knowledge on this swap? Thanks

Originally Posted by Drunken Hamster

In that case, I'm definitely not believing that a higher ratio final drive with 4.10's is getting even 28mpg, never mind 38 or 45. Gonna need serious proof. Also, I don't really like those ratios on the Miata 6 speed. Or the Miata 5 speed for that matter. I'm sure they're much nicer shifting transmission, but there's really something to be said about the EVEN gear spacing of the stock m5od (barring 5th being not so even compared to 4th) and I like that. My ideal transmission, almost no matter what has to have evenly spaced gears.

Coouuullldd ya extend some knowledge on the rest of my ramblings, please?

Originally Posted by tbone3366

The manifold is a direct swap tho depending on year may need adapted vacuum lines but that is it, keep the actuator plugged into the harness from the old manifold and it will keep a cel away, any info you need go ahead and ask here

Originally Posted by The_Paynemaler

Alright, thank you. That is the answer I was looking for. I assumed that was the case but wanted to double check.

Originally Posted by tbone3366

If you would like I can send you my fuel and spark table, I run the motor around 14.9 at cruise, also most of the roads here are flat and about at sea level

The ranger is also has some plastic panels underneath to reduce drag from drive train components similar to a volvo t5 when I get back from my trip ill post some pics, as for the miata trans it doesn't have factory ratios, it has been altered to suit the truck better, theres a few pages worth to get anything over 30, achieving 28 to 32 on a factory platform is possible but depends on a lot such as air temp, elevation etc....

Originally Posted by tbone3366

For any updates on the ranger, it is currently getting a ford 300 i6 turbo swap along with a custom head and efi system im working on

Originally Posted by Drunken Hamster

I live at about 700 feet and there are a fair few hills here in upstate SC. I haven't noticed and undertray on my ranger except the itty bitty one under the radiator, but after watching several aerodynamics videos, I've considered MAKING one for my truck, in addition to lowering it significantly. I appreciate you responding, but it seems like you skipped my big post... I supposed for the TLDR reason, huh? Could you go look at it again?



Jesus Christ, isn't that engine going to be too big to fit? And, if it is, or if you just want power and extra economy... Have you considered an OM606? It's a 6000RPM (possibly even 7000, either number with mods, of course) capable 3.0L inline 6 diesel that can easily put down in the 400-500HP range with mods. Weighs about as much as an LS motor, too, compared to other diesels and the potentially heavy 300 ford i6

Originally Posted by tbone3366

This engine likes to run between 255-70
at 280 the engine begins to retard ignition timing
at 295 it enters limp mode
the engine will run at 280 safely
the engine likes 89 octane best at sea level as proven from dyno tests on stock motors between 2001 and 2007
if you remove any electronics you have to (I CAN NOT STRESS ENOUGH) place in a form of resistance otherwise idle will increase and everything else like injector will increase witch will cause damage
the engine performs the best with 10w-30 in the summer and 5w-20 in the winter
if you plan to run 4000 rpm+ only use Royal purple 5w20-15w-40 or shell rotella 15w-40 ( in order to run the shell oil you must remove the cats and EGR no exceptions)
this motor likes oil changes every 3800-4200 miles
this motor will push 65 psi oil starting at 4600 do not be afraid to rev this motor
this motor will comfortably rev to 7300 and make power there redline stock is 7500 (7100 for non forged crank models)
the motor will produce with boost at 4800 281hp and 304lbs torque or 313hp at 6800rpm with 17 psi (with valve springs and eagle rods, do not go over that level until pistons are forged)
the motor on 5 psi will make an extra 60 hp and 55-75lbs torque depending on rpm boost band
do not exceed 80 shot of nitrous wet or dry period on stock internals regardless of the forged or cast crank the pistons and rods are the weak points
4.10 to 4.88 allow for the best performance 3.55 is perfect for fuel econemy as mpg does not start to get massively harmed until 2700 rpm
peak torque stock is at 4750 rpm
peak hp is at 5400 rpm
do not put a cold air intake
cut up the stock box and run straight tubing to the intake, make sure to add a vacuum can or bottle or you WILL have idle and stalling issues
Run a 4l v6 rad if you plan to run past 3500 rpm + or towing
DO NOT LET IT RUN OUT OF OIL OR YOUR CHAIN CAN LOCK OR CREATE PRESSURE AND IF YOUR CAM(S) STOP YOUR ENGINE WILL BLOW UP IT IS AN INTERFERENCE DESIGN AND IS 9.7:1 COMP STOCK, will be a massive bang
The stock injectors are 24LB/HR and are good for about 335hp
the stock maf is good for about 365 hp
the intake manifold once the runner flaps are deleted will allow for 280 hp or 215 hp N/A
Look at 08+ 2.0 miatas for ranger parts most work
Perfect throttle body size is 62mm after that its all throttle response and no gain
Run = diameter pipes from the air box (can port out) to the throttle body
Make sure you have a 1.25" larger 6" long section that drops back down to the respective intake size as this will save you on more stalling problems
the ranger stock exhaust is fine up to 225 hp after that it will crack and you loose power this motor relies on having clean flow
perfect size exhaust for NA is 2.5" to 2.75"
Having custom fabbed 2 to 1 header is a huge gain by having it run as true duals with an H pipe for low end torque and x pipe for topend (ford 300 cid efi manifolds are a perfect example)
Wrap the exhaust and shield the engine bay from the heat, lower temps means the engine will be more efficient and require less gas for the same power
unplug the battery with the crank position sensor placed as high as possible, re plug the battery after an hour and run the engine, then move the crank position sensor as far down as possible witch will net you 38 degrees total timing and 20 degrees base timing witch this motor likes
you can make a lot of power by just moving the intake and exhaust cam degrees, 40 degrees is the max before you have piston to valve issues, make sure to slowly crank the engine to keep tolerances in check, if the piston bumps a valve while rotating by hand move cam back 3 degrees ( my ranger has 40 degrees total overlap and has 11.8:1 compression when at high rpm, unfortunately 1500 and below torque is non existent)
doing this will require you to run a vacuum pump in order to run brakes ad AC
assuming you modified the cams im assuming you have 0 back pressure or gutted cats and zero emissions tech otherwise your missing out on about 15-20 hp
The duratec 2.3l injectors are good up to 8300 rpm where the duratec stops making power with all then necessary internals and tuning
the stock ecm is tunable using the quarter horse for 2004 and older, on 05 up youll need to use sct x4 flasher
putting a 2.5l duratec head on and deleting the vct will allow for better throttle response and if ported and polished an increase in 3-8hp
the perfect afr for fuel economy on this motor is 14.9:1 idle and mild bumps to 2000 rpm then point .2 bumps below so normal would be 13.8 so youll bump to 14.0, this will net better economy at the expense of hp and torque
try and keep afr at 13.8 through the band til redline, if you modify the cam timing you can bring afr to 13.2
run stock copper plugs for the best economy or platnum colder plugs when running top end
run 2 or 3 steps colder when cam timing is modified to make up for the extra air flow at top end
the stock ignition is very accurate and is just fine
if you want a mild boost in performance without any tuning you can use an Aisin AMR 500 supercharger and run 2.1:1 pulley and will net maybe 2.3-3 lbs boost, make sure maf sits behind the super not before it, no need for an intercooler
anything 9 psi up will require an intercooler
dry sump oil pan will help throttle response and reduce drag on the engine
running an electric pump and using a water pump delete will reduce more drag
you can run an underdrive on the power steering and reduce even more drag
delete the entire AC
if you put around softly you can get away with 5-6k oil changes
racing it or towing just as a reminder will need 3500-4500 oil changes
meth injection is a plus for 30 hp after that the computer will not compensate anymore (hence the amr 500 being a viable option)
if you change the cam timing remove the cam position sensor or you'll hit a no start situation due to gas going out the exhaust
focus stage 1 cams will work on the ranger stock but you must retard the intake 12 degrees still delete the cam sensor
burton power uk is your friend for ranger performance under the escort section of duratec like true long tube headers

https://www.amazon.com/Refurbished-S...s%2C247&sr=8-3

https://www.burtonpower.com/parts-by...oduct_area=591

any questions regarding the duratec 2.3 can be asked here if this can maybe have this stickied as these are some of the big things for the ranger motor that i have found

Originally Posted by Shoals65

When you say it runs best at 265 is this degrees?