On a 2003 2.3 2wd, where is it and where does it go? I had a shop do a coolant test today and I was told I needed a water pump and a heater valve. The price quoted was ridiculous for the valve, $163 labor and $55 for the part. I am unsure if it would have been the same for a guy. I looked up part number the shop quoted and saw the part for sale in O'Reilly for way less. Same manufacturer and number. So I will do it myself.

I have replaced them in 3 decade older vehicles if my memory is correct. I have had this truck less than a week and cannot for sure find it, I am not used to plastic parts and electrical wires everywhere. I think its part that has the 2 hoses going to firewall for the core and 2 hoses from the bottom. Correct? If not please let me know where those 2 bottom hoses go. They look bad.

 

Welcome to the forum

Yes, the 2.3l Duratec engine was designed to be mounted sideways in cars, Ford chose to use straight in Rangers so many of the hoses are a bit convoluted in their routing
There is actually a coolant line on the back of the head you have to pull out the transmission to service in a Ranger

Yes, the heater valve has the 4 hoses and a vacuum actuator, grey vacuum line
2 hoses from firewall for heater core
2 hoses to the engine

Its actually ONLY USED for MAX AC
It turns off coolant flow thru heater core in the cab for max cooling

 

Thanks. I will crawl under it tomorrow to see where on the engine they connect. Are they the ones that require trans to be dropped?

 

Its possible but I don't think so

The engine heater hoses usually come from water pump and thermostat housing
Thermostat housing on 2.3l duratec is on the lower radiator hose, which I think is drivers side front of engine
But I have never pulled apart 2.3l duratec cooling system

 

Thanks. In about a hour I will crawl under the truck and trace them. Hopefully they end at a spot that's accessible.

Is motorcraft heater valve as prone to leaks as the rest? The local ford dealership is a pita to get oem anything from.

 

Yes, they are plastic so.........................
As said you don't need that valve at all, and can use 2 metal hose couplers to connect the heater hoses together so you have flow in and out of the heater core

I doubt you would even notice a difference in AC performance on the hottest days

Its not a "temp" control, its an on/off valve, and only OFF when MAX AC is selected in cab, which is a minor part of MAX AC, the main part of MAX AC is that it closes off the Fresh air intake to the cab, so the already cooled air in the cab is pulled in and re-cooled by the AC, so AC is not trying to cool down the HOT outside air

You can still look for a deal on the by-pass valve and then keep it on a shelf until you want to use it
Plug the grey vacuum hose end and tie it up out of the way, its not really a vacuum leak but the Fresh air vent vacuum valve is on that same vacuum line so if grey line is left open it might prevent vacuum from closing valve all the way when MAX AC is selected

And just a general heads up
Reverse the 2 heater hoses at the firewall every 2 years or so to reverse the flow thru the heater core, this will keep it cleaner and make it last longer
You should do this on any vehicle, not a Ranger or Ford thing
Back flushing is a common way to clean out heater cores that get plugged up, so why not do it while you drive, lol