Novice seeking any/all insight on first engine change
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From: Spokane, WA
Novice seeking any/all insight on first engine change
As the title implies, I amtaking on the task of replacing my very first engine, and would rather learnthe ins-and-outs of my truck rather than hand it over to someone else to fix.The work in question is on my ’07 Ranger, and will primarily consist of replacingthe existing 2.3l with one we just picked up from the local Spalding. Lackingthe knowledge to ask the right questions, I am stating what I have planned outin hopes that you, fellow Ford fans, will be able to identify any discrepancies,help me learn the right questions to ask, understand the answers, and offer relevantpointers.
Problem: To make a sad and long story short, 10 monthsago my truck made a loud metallic grinding sound (while on my way to work) someplacein the passenger side area of the engine compartment, and shortly after itstalled out. A mechanic diagnosed it as being a seized piston, and the fix was a new engine.
Current: I Picked up an engine, as stated above anddescribed in the attachment. It will be brought home tomorrow, stored in a non-heatedbuilding atop a wooden pallet, and left under a tarp until it is time to put itin.
Plan: With the help of a few friends (of which one ortwo have changed out some type of engine), we plan on taking the truck andengine out to the local Air Force base auto-hobby workshop. With the help of my Chilton’s manual and Youtube, we hope to swap the engine out, rotate tires, replacebreak pads, replace the exterior driver’s side door handle, and be done inunder 9hrs.
Relevant Experience: I have personally replaced the alternator,serpentine belt, breaks, oil, and clutch in this truck in the past. Additionally, I have replaced a fuel pump in a 97 explorer which was inside the tank. I have no other relevant understandingto automotive repairs.
I am not sure what specifics areneeded about my truck, the engine in it, or such, so please ask for more infowhere it is missing. I thank you in advance for your time, patience, andinstruction in this educational endeavor.
Last edited by flyenemu; Mar 10, 2017 at 02:05 PM.
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Joined: Jul 2016
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From: BC Canada
Me again, if you plan on doing this in just 9 hours, you probably don't need to use sandwich bags and recipe cards.
To get it done in 9 hours an impact wrench and a fancy ceiling mounted engine hoist on a track may be needed.
If that's available, it probably would be easier just to pull the engine and trans together, it's no fun getting at the bell housing bolts while the engine is still in place (time consuming), but you know that already.
Exhaust manifold bolts and EGR chimney is a pain, acetylene torch is very handy here.
Not sure how well equipped the local Air Force base auto-hobby workshop is.
You have somebody there who's pulled an engine before anyway, so...
My gut tells me that there won't be time to do the secondary things, but who knows.
If the job is rushed, one ends up forgetting to plug sensors in, break plastic sensor connections and twist bolts off.
Nothing worse when doing a job that requires care, running out of time and scrambling to get it done while watching the clock.
To get it done in 9 hours an impact wrench and a fancy ceiling mounted engine hoist on a track may be needed.
If that's available, it probably would be easier just to pull the engine and trans together, it's no fun getting at the bell housing bolts while the engine is still in place (time consuming), but you know that already.
Exhaust manifold bolts and EGR chimney is a pain, acetylene torch is very handy here.
Not sure how well equipped the local Air Force base auto-hobby workshop is.
You have somebody there who's pulled an engine before anyway, so...
My gut tells me that there won't be time to do the secondary things, but who knows.
If the job is rushed, one ends up forgetting to plug sensors in, break plastic sensor connections and twist bolts off.
Nothing worse when doing a job that requires care, running out of time and scrambling to get it done while watching the clock.
Last edited by Jeff R 1; Mar 10, 2017 at 03:23 PM.
Take LOTS AND LOTS of pictures as you disassemble and unhook wires and vacuum hoses, it is FREE and you never know what you may need when the "where did this go?" starts to come into play
White tape and a permanent marker should not go unused, lol, one too many labels is not a complaint I ever heard :)
Exhaust bolts can be tough, if exhaust manifold bolts are stuck remove header pipe and pull exhaust manifold out with the engine.
Have extra jack handy
When you lift the engine up the whole front end of the truck will lift up as well since there is no weight on it, if the engine hoist has limited lift you may need to jackup front end and remove the tires then lower it down to get engine out.
You can also "chain the frame", you use a chain on both sides so front suspension can't drop down very far, so when you lift up the engine the truck stays as it was, low.
This also makes empty engine bay easier to work on and in, not so high to reach over.
If you have an automatic, and its your first time, one VERY VERY IMPORTANT THING!!!!!!
Torque converter slides onto input shaft of transmission, you then turn the torque converter while pushing in on it, it will slide in farther and you will here it click at least two times as it slides in a little more each time.
Thats the torque converter meshing with front pump.
Bellhousing should go on and bolt up easily, NO FORCING IT
Torque converter should still turn and slide forward a bit to bolt to flex plate
If you forget to do this the automatic will be toast, full disassembly required to fix front pump
The 2.3l Duratec engine was made for Front wheel drive cars and transverse(sideways) mounting, so in a Ranger there is a coolant connection on the Back of the engine, would be easy to get to on a car, lol, put on a new connection, because after engine and trans is in you can't get to it.
Check rear main seal on the engine, cheap to replace with engine out, bone dry is what you want to see, and small traces of oil seen means replace it
White tape and a permanent marker should not go unused, lol, one too many labels is not a complaint I ever heard :)
Exhaust bolts can be tough, if exhaust manifold bolts are stuck remove header pipe and pull exhaust manifold out with the engine.
Have extra jack handy
When you lift the engine up the whole front end of the truck will lift up as well since there is no weight on it, if the engine hoist has limited lift you may need to jackup front end and remove the tires then lower it down to get engine out.
You can also "chain the frame", you use a chain on both sides so front suspension can't drop down very far, so when you lift up the engine the truck stays as it was, low.
This also makes empty engine bay easier to work on and in, not so high to reach over.
If you have an automatic, and its your first time, one VERY VERY IMPORTANT THING!!!!!!
Torque converter slides onto input shaft of transmission, you then turn the torque converter while pushing in on it, it will slide in farther and you will here it click at least two times as it slides in a little more each time.
Thats the torque converter meshing with front pump.
Bellhousing should go on and bolt up easily, NO FORCING IT
Torque converter should still turn and slide forward a bit to bolt to flex plate
If you forget to do this the automatic will be toast, full disassembly required to fix front pump
The 2.3l Duratec engine was made for Front wheel drive cars and transverse(sideways) mounting, so in a Ranger there is a coolant connection on the Back of the engine, would be easy to get to on a car, lol, put on a new connection, because after engine and trans is in you can't get to it.
Check rear main seal on the engine, cheap to replace with engine out, bone dry is what you want to see, and small traces of oil seen means replace it
Last edited by RonD; Mar 10, 2017 at 03:33 PM.
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From: Spokane, WA
All,
Update: Theengine proved to be quite a simple thing to move with the help of 4 people. Ifphotos of the new engine (described in the previous attachment), or any photosof my truck would be helpful please let me know.
Jeff,
Thank you foryour continued interest in my project. I am unsure as to all the tools the shopas to offer, but I remember there being some type of contraption used forengine pulls, though I couldn’t describe it to you if I tried. The stalls eachhave a four point lift that raises the car straight up, but beyond that I amunsure.
I indeed remember how much of a pain that bellhouse was/is... I’ll be sure it is pulled all at once to facilitate an easiertime.
I do not think Ieven know what an acetylene torch looks like beyond Google’s help… let alone howto use one. I’ll be sure to read up more on how to best address the exhaust manifoldbolts and EGR chimney.
After bringing upthe time limit to my friends, they all expressed concern regarding the timelimit, and the extra work. One of my friends (who has changed engines before)advised me to remove all of the connections that are “not mounting bolts” tohelp expedite the process. I am not surethis would be the best option due to my inexperience. Do you think preemptive worklike this would be a good idea? If I were to do so I plan on following the adviceto label, label some more, take photos, and then label again. Either way, Ithink the secondary tasks can all be completed once we get her back home, as Ihave a jack and stands. The biggest pain is the handle replacement as I lack a rivetgun…
Ron,
Thank you foryour interest in my project. I shall take your photo recommendation to heart!Though I can normally remember how to put something together once it has beentaken apart, I do NOT want to take any chances with this process. Do you thinkpreemptive disconnect work would be wise due to the time limit, or should Iwait for more experienced eyes?
Jeff R 1 alsomentioned the Exhaust bolts being a bit of a pain, and recommended the use ofan acetylene torch. I’ll be sure to take your idea of pulling the exhaustmanifold out with the engine if it proves to be unruly.
As I mentionedabove to Jeff, the stalls have a built-in 4 point lift system that allows safework under the rig, but I am sure there must be other tools they offer forpulling engines. I’ll be sure to keep your pointers in mind when it comes tolifting it out.
Luckily, my truckis a manual transmission, but are there any problems or important notesregarding it? I have pulled my clutch, and am aware of the “no forcing” rulewith the bolts, but will be sure to forward the warning. I was thinking it bestto pull the transmission with the engine to better work on it, as advised byJeff. Do you think that is a good game plan?
A coolantconnection? I am not sure what all the new engine has on it (have photos ifhelps), so I’ll need to look and see what you are referring to. I only want topull this once, so I’ll do as much work while it is out as I can!
‘Check the rearmain seal on the engine’. I will be sure to do this as well as the abovementioned mindset depicts. Thank you for explaining how to best discern if sucha change would be needed!
Update: Theengine proved to be quite a simple thing to move with the help of 4 people. Ifphotos of the new engine (described in the previous attachment), or any photosof my truck would be helpful please let me know.
Jeff,
Thank you foryour continued interest in my project. I am unsure as to all the tools the shopas to offer, but I remember there being some type of contraption used forengine pulls, though I couldn’t describe it to you if I tried. The stalls eachhave a four point lift that raises the car straight up, but beyond that I amunsure.
I indeed remember how much of a pain that bellhouse was/is... I’ll be sure it is pulled all at once to facilitate an easiertime.
I do not think Ieven know what an acetylene torch looks like beyond Google’s help… let alone howto use one. I’ll be sure to read up more on how to best address the exhaust manifoldbolts and EGR chimney.
After bringing upthe time limit to my friends, they all expressed concern regarding the timelimit, and the extra work. One of my friends (who has changed engines before)advised me to remove all of the connections that are “not mounting bolts” tohelp expedite the process. I am not surethis would be the best option due to my inexperience. Do you think preemptive worklike this would be a good idea? If I were to do so I plan on following the adviceto label, label some more, take photos, and then label again. Either way, Ithink the secondary tasks can all be completed once we get her back home, as Ihave a jack and stands. The biggest pain is the handle replacement as I lack a rivetgun…
Ron,
Thank you foryour interest in my project. I shall take your photo recommendation to heart!Though I can normally remember how to put something together once it has beentaken apart, I do NOT want to take any chances with this process. Do you thinkpreemptive disconnect work would be wise due to the time limit, or should Iwait for more experienced eyes?
Jeff R 1 alsomentioned the Exhaust bolts being a bit of a pain, and recommended the use ofan acetylene torch. I’ll be sure to take your idea of pulling the exhaustmanifold out with the engine if it proves to be unruly.
As I mentionedabove to Jeff, the stalls have a built-in 4 point lift system that allows safework under the rig, but I am sure there must be other tools they offer forpulling engines. I’ll be sure to keep your pointers in mind when it comes tolifting it out.
Luckily, my truckis a manual transmission, but are there any problems or important notesregarding it? I have pulled my clutch, and am aware of the “no forcing” rulewith the bolts, but will be sure to forward the warning. I was thinking it bestto pull the transmission with the engine to better work on it, as advised byJeff. Do you think that is a good game plan?
A coolantconnection? I am not sure what all the new engine has on it (have photos ifhelps), so I’ll need to look and see what you are referring to. I only want topull this once, so I’ll do as much work while it is out as I can!
‘Check the rearmain seal on the engine’. I will be sure to do this as well as the abovementioned mindset depicts. Thank you for explaining how to best discern if sucha change would be needed!
Member
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 2,023
Likes: 44
From: BC Canada
When I pulled the heads off my truck (3 Liter) I spent an afternoon loosening rusted exhaust manifold bolts, so when it came time to do the actual work, I didn't have to mess with seized bolts.
On the 99 3 liter the EGR chimney is held in place with a large 23mm (I have to check to be sure) collar nut bolted onto the lower exhaust manifold _ yours in probably similar.
It's been in there for 17 years, the acetylene touch is used to heat the nut "cherry red" to break it lose.
If you go with Ron's suggestion you still have to disconnect the lower end of the exhaust pipe from the rest of the system so the engine can be removed.
You can take a day to loosen up these bolts so you don't have to deal with them later.
I'm not familiar with the 2.3 liter and how the lower exhaust is connected to the rest of the system, but in most cases there would be flange that unbolts from the rest of the system.
In some cases if the truck was brought into a muffler shop, an aftermarket system may have been welded in place, in this case there is nothing to unbolt, you either have to cut it, or unbolt the exhaust manifold from the head.
An acetylene/oxygen torch is used to generate enough heat to expand the rusted nuts so they can be removed.
The heat also chemically changes the rust and turns it black to break the bond between the nut and bolt.
I just removed my lower front exhaust "Y" so I could get at the frame for painting while my engine is out. There were 3 bolts holding it in place that haven't been touched in 17 years and with out the torch, no amount of penetrating oil would have worked, I would have ended up twisting the bolts off.
Most would have ground the bolts off, but in my case, that would have created a new problem, the bolts are permanently fused on the flange at the factory, so replacing the bolts would have been quite difficult, the old ones would have had to been cut out.
Realistically I would give your self two days to swap the engine and forget about the other stuff for now, leave the other things for another time.
https://www.google.ca/search?q=oxy/a...y/acet+torch&*
You can Google about oxy/acet _ how to set up a neutral flame, equipment needed...
If the DYI garage doesn't have one available, then I'm not sure how you're going to disconnect the exhaust.
This sort of thing would probably work just if you're heating things up.
I wouldn't cut or actually weld with it though.
http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...uctId=34900216
On the 99 3 liter the EGR chimney is held in place with a large 23mm (I have to check to be sure) collar nut bolted onto the lower exhaust manifold _ yours in probably similar.
It's been in there for 17 years, the acetylene touch is used to heat the nut "cherry red" to break it lose.
If you go with Ron's suggestion you still have to disconnect the lower end of the exhaust pipe from the rest of the system so the engine can be removed.
You can take a day to loosen up these bolts so you don't have to deal with them later.
I'm not familiar with the 2.3 liter and how the lower exhaust is connected to the rest of the system, but in most cases there would be flange that unbolts from the rest of the system.
In some cases if the truck was brought into a muffler shop, an aftermarket system may have been welded in place, in this case there is nothing to unbolt, you either have to cut it, or unbolt the exhaust manifold from the head.
An acetylene/oxygen torch is used to generate enough heat to expand the rusted nuts so they can be removed.
The heat also chemically changes the rust and turns it black to break the bond between the nut and bolt.
I just removed my lower front exhaust "Y" so I could get at the frame for painting while my engine is out. There were 3 bolts holding it in place that haven't been touched in 17 years and with out the torch, no amount of penetrating oil would have worked, I would have ended up twisting the bolts off.
Most would have ground the bolts off, but in my case, that would have created a new problem, the bolts are permanently fused on the flange at the factory, so replacing the bolts would have been quite difficult, the old ones would have had to been cut out.
Realistically I would give your self two days to swap the engine and forget about the other stuff for now, leave the other things for another time.
https://www.google.ca/search?q=oxy/a...y/acet+torch&*
You can Google about oxy/acet _ how to set up a neutral flame, equipment needed...
If the DYI garage doesn't have one available, then I'm not sure how you're going to disconnect the exhaust.
This sort of thing would probably work just if you're heating things up.
I wouldn't cut or actually weld with it though.
http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...uctId=34900216
Last edited by Jeff R 1; Mar 13, 2017 at 01:57 PM.
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From: Spokane, WA
Ford TruckFriends,
After aLONG, painful, and annoying process I have finally reached the final stages ofmy engine swap! My neighbor was kind enough to let us use his driveway, andhelp out with the work. (thus removing the 9 hour time limit!) Now, the engineis in, tranny is all hooked up, and I'm working on installing the final remainingcomponents within the engine bay itself (alternator, radiator, tensioner, etc.).
Theexhaust manifold was quite easy to remove, and we did not need to heat thebolts on the lower half. Due to how tight the space is for the engine tomanifold bolts, we did take the manifold out with the engine when it waspulled. Last night I bolted up the exhaust manifold to the engine and the restof the exhaust, but today was informed there might be a torque value associatedwith it! This bothers me due to how small the space for the rear bolts of themanifold is, and I dread the idea of having to pull the engine again…. I don'thave a torque wrench, so I would need to get one, but only after I learnwhat the value[s](if any) is/are.
I am soglad I took all of your advice ESPECIALLY with labeling all my wires. It reallyhelped when I found out my new engine ('03 with an automatic trans) didn't havethe right harness, and I had to splice in a connector from the '03'swiring onto my original to match the 'keying' of the connector that is betweenmy sparkplugs.
Now, witha light at the end of the tunnel, I have mixed emotions. On the onehand, I am excited that this project will FINALLY be over,but on the other I am worried I forgot something or did something wrong. Arethere any tips or words of wisdom that will help ensure that when I turn thatkey I have my baby back and not a bigger problem than when I started?
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