2003 Ranger XLT 2.3 with 235k Miles.

To fix oil leaks I pulled the intake manifold and valve cover to install new gaskets. Now that the intake manifold is out are there other things I should consider doing?

So far I pulled the throttlebody and IAC sensors off the intake and I'm cleaning all of them with spray seafoam. Will reinstall the components with new gaskets. Can someone tell me the torque for the throttlebody and IAC?

I am also going to reinforce the little plug at the far end of the rod with the butterfly flaps opposite the swirl control valve, to try to prevent the plug blowout problem other posters have reported.

Here is a pic of that plug
https://www.ranger-forums.com/member...mg-6817-17594/

Since I don't know anything about prior maintenance and it has 235,000 miles should I also do the EGR valve and if so where the devil is it ? Various Internet sources call this tube the EGR (see pics below) but it just looks like a tube. The tube where it connects to the air intake downstream of the throttlebody
https://www.ranger-forums.com/member...mg-6819-17593/
....and where it seems to be attached to the cylinder head... or is that the crankcase?
https://www.ranger-forums.com/member...mg-6818-17592/
What is this tube and where is my EGR valve? Should I be bothering with the EGR at all ?

Before I got into this my only code what is the generic catalytic converter code P0420. I'm not expecting any of this to clear that up, but if I get lucky that's OK. Mainly just wanted to tackle the oil leaks and do a seafoam treatment before messing with the exhaust .

Anything else I should do on principle since I'm this far into it?

Thanks!

 

Hi Sparky,

The EGR is actually on the back of the head by the firewall. It's not very easy to get to that's for sure. Honestly I wouldn't bother with it until it actually fails. And if it does you'll need to lower your transmission to get enough room to unbolt it from the head.

The Throttle body bolt torque specs are: 89 Lb-in
The IAC bolt torqe specs are also: 89 Lb-in

With the intake manifold off (torque specs on those bolts are 13 Ft-lb) there really isn't much else that you can't get to even with it being on. The intake manifold just makes replacing that valve cover gasket a bit of a bear.

That tube is indeed the EGR Tube. I've never messed with mine although I only have 133,000 miles on mine.

As for that intake manifold plug, some will just smear epoxy over it to get a little more time out of it before it eventually pops out.


On a side note you might look into the software on forscan.org for your Ranger. I use it and it's actually awesome software for the price (it's free). Let's you see your engine parameters in real time. Plus engine codes, logging and etc.

 

Thanks you Soledad! Since I got the ranger I've been watching for the Helms cd or manual to show up at price I'll pay, in the meantime Thanks for the torque specs and helping make sense of the EGR.

Hadn't heard of forscan software yet, thanks for that too. I keep a list of rainy day things to do when I can't work outdoors. I'll get around to checking it out, too.

Since I have a rear main seal leak, I'll think about EGR whenever I drop the tranny for that job.

In another thread EaOutlaw also suggested cleaning the oil separator and installing new gasket, plus doing PCV system checks. I'll throw in a new valve for that and maybe hoses too.

 

I know this is an old thread but I'll post a followup in case it helps someone later. Pulling the IM was part of the first project on a new-to-me 2003 with 230K, several codes, and leaking oil. I think P0420 went away when I replaced broken vac lines on the swirl control attached to the intake manifold. Anyway... after reassembly and the other things I did I still had two of the codes.... P0171. . I didn't know it at the time, but one of the less common reasons for that code is fuel system problems. So while I had the IM out, and since the truck was new-to-me old truck with lots of miles, I wish I had bench tested the fuel injector resistance and replaced their O-rings, and swapped out or modified the fuel rail. On my truck, the fuel pressure testing port - schrader valve - is under the wiring harness up against the firewall and its very hard to get at. I wish I had either added a permanent extension (at the risk of creating future fuel leak) or changed the rail to a different style (if available). But since its back together and the other codes have been cleared up, next I'll build a smoke machine to look for vac leaks (the most common reason for P0171). If I find something that makes me pull the IM again, I'll do this fuel system stuff at that time. But if its tight, I'll probably end up cutting the line and installing an after market schrader in a convenient place, and only mess with the rail and injectors if I run out of other things to chase trying to clear up P0171.

 

While the IM is out, see Lemmy's great how to post on sealing up the end of the swirl control rod