I recently bought a 2000 ext cab Ranger with 3.0 with 4R44E transmission. It has shifting problems that I tracked down to a blown valve body gasket. It's blown at the reverse servo, and at one of the shift solenoids.

So... what is the right way to fix this?

I know about the spacer plate with bonded gaskets. I've also read that THAT spacer plate is now superceded by a thicker plate without bonded gaskets. What's the most current fix for this? And where can I get these parts?

Thanks.

 

I found a TSB that covers this subject, to repair this issue I suggest working directly from a service manual if you need instructions specifications etc.

BTW the parts should be available at Ford or online just google the Ford kit part number
From the TSB

Article No.
03-22-10
11/10/03
TRANSMISSION - 4R44E - 4R55E - 5R44E - 5R55E -
LOW LINE PRESSURE READING AT WIDE OPEN
THROTTLE (WOT) - POSSIBLE DIAGNOSTIC
TROUBLE CODES P0732, P0733, P1762 - VEHICLES
BUILT BEFORE 12/1/2001
FORD:
1995-2001 EXPLORER
1995-2002 RANGER
1996-1997 AEROSTAR
2000-2002 EXPLORER SPORT
2001-2002 EXPLORER SPORT TRAC
MERCURY:
1997-2001 MOUNTAINEER
This article supersedes TSB's 03-11-9, 02-13-8 and 02-08-2 to update the model coverage.
ISSUE
Some vehicles built prior to 12/1/2001 may exhibit the following shift and engagement conditions:
^ No 2nd Gear
^ No 3rd Gear
^ No Engine Braking In Manual 1st.
Out of specification pressures controlled by the transmission main control valve body separator plate may be the cause.
ACTION
Verify the condition, the main control valve body separator plate may need to be updated to the latest level. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.
SERVICE PROCEDURE


CAUTION A NEW SEPARATOR 7Z490 MUST BE USED WHEN INSTALLING THE SPECIAL SERVICE KIT 7M203 OR ADDITIONAL TRANSMISSION DAMAGE MAY OCCUR. REFER TO THE PARTS APPLICATION CHART IN THIS ARTICLE FOR CORRECT SEPARATOR PLATE PART LISTING.
NOTE THIS ARTICLE DOES NOT APPLY TO ANY OTHER CONDITIONS OR COMPONENTS THAT MAY CAUSE SIMILAR SYMPTOMS AND IS ONLY WRITTEN TO COVER THESE SPECIFIC CONDITIONS.
NOTE AN IN-LINE SERVICE FILTER IS NOT REQUIRED TO BE ADDED OR REPLACED FOR THIS TSB.
1. Verify that one or more of the following conditions exist.
^ Low Line Pressure While In Drive At WOT
^ No 2nd And/Or No 3rd Gear
^ No Engine Braking In Manual 1st
^ DTC P0732, P0733 Or P1762
2. Install kit (3L5Z-7M203-JA) to update the main control valve body assembly, refer to the installation procedures found in the kit.
3. Reinstall the main control by continuing to follow the installation steps listed in the Workshop Manual, in-vehicle service, main control valve body.
4. After completing the procedure, verify the condition has been corrected.
5. Clear all DTCs.


Parts Block
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
SUPERSEDES: 03-11-9, 02-13-8 02-08-2
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage
OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME

032210A Replace Separator Plate 2.8 Hrs.
And Update Main Control
Valve Body (Includes Time
To Remove And Install
Main Control Valve Body
And Diagnosis)
DEALER CODING
CONDITION
BASIC PART NO. CODE
D100 D8

 

Is the transmission slipping?

If it is then the clutches and bands will be damaged, so installing other parts would be a waste of time, rebuild would be best and least costly in the long run.

If you are just "flipping" it then patch it as described and sell it
The higher pressure from new valve body will help prevent some slipping but just a matter of time before it starts to burn the fluid

If trans is just shifting hard, no slipping, then make sure to check codes, P07xx are transmission codes

 

Sorry for the slow response. I was out of town for a few days.

EaOutlaw, thanks for the TSB info. BTW, what does the Ford kit do? The text of the TSB says, "verify the condition has been corrected." The new spacer plate with bonded gaskets should "correct the condition". So what does the rest of the kit do?

Thanks.

 

It's not slipping in 1st, 2nd and 3rd. It might be slipping in 4th. The fluid was brown, but still with some pink. It didn't smell burnt. I was kinda planning on flipping it, but after I used it for a few months. This tranny problem has convinced me that I made a bad gamble on this one. Oh, well... at least I'm getting some experience doing some repairs I haven't done before. And I AM learning a lot about auto transmissions.

 

If you read the TSB it shows that it addresses possible codes and or symptoms all of which is posted on the TSB.


If your truck meets any of these conditions your truck could possibly be fixed by installing the recommended parts.

If your truck does not meet these conditions the Kit may not help your truck at all.

The kit is designed to make up for a proven unreliable series of parts, yet if other internal parts have been damaged by debris or lack of pressure, you may need to dig deeper than the valve body.

Most transmission shops have ways of checking all the sensors, servos and pressures before reassembly and have ways of running the transmission on a transmission dyno before reinstalling.

The way your repairing this transmission you may get lucky and fix it with the install of this kit yet you will have to take a leap of faith buy the parts, fluid and put the truck back together to find out if it is fixed.

If it is not fixed and or you created another problem, your out all the time, money etc and have to start all over again.

If I were you i would post exactly what your trucks symptoms, what codes were in the computer and what you have done to diagnose the problem.

What service manual are you working from? or do you even have one?

 

How does this compare to the aftermarket shift improvement kits?

I'm afraid this may be the case, but I can fix the valve body without removing the transmission.

I understand that. I know that the valve body problem can result in other parts being damaged.

Yeah, but this is still a MUCH smaller effort than removing a transmission.

There were no powertrain codes. I had some engine codes. Misfires on cyl 2 and 5. Still runs rough, but that's a separate problem.

The exact symptoms, as I recall them, were:

- Skips 2nd gear. And it takes some coaxing to get it to go to 3rd. Once warmed up, it gets a little better. After a fluid change and flush, it got a little better.
- Shifts into manual 2nd just fine.
- After shifting into M2, then putting it in D, it shifts into 3rd fine.
- In 4th, it has a shimmy. I suspect the OD band is slipping.
- No slipping in first 3 gears.
- No significant delay when going into reverse.

Before I took the valve body out, I didn't know that I should check for engine braking in M1, so I don't know what the results of that test would be.

The upper valve body gasket is blown at the reverse servo, at one shift solenoid, and at the pressure control solenoid. When I did the fluid change and flush, several of the valve body bolts were not torqued to spec.

The only thing I've done so far that could possibly fix anything is changing and flushing the fluid, replacing the filter, and re-torquing the valve body bolts.

The only service manual I have is Haynes. I don't have a transmission specific manual. Do you have a recommendation?

Thanks for the reply.

 

The kit available from Ford can not be compared to the aftermarket shift kit.

Going by your listed symptoms and lack of test run it is very hard to say if this TSB kit will help you or not.


All I can say is make sure you do not scratch the valve body or transmission case during the install and make sure you do this work in a clean environment.

 

I THOUGHT I had removed all the loose parts from the VB, but when I turned it up to look at the bottom, a pin fell out. One of the "L" shaped pins. Even though I made a photo before doing anything to it, I still don't see where it goes. Is there a photo or drawing (exploded view) showing where all the pieces of a VB go?

 

I have Alldata DIY it has a exploded diagram of the 5R44E and the 5R55E yet I cannot find anything for your transmission. ( because my subscription is only good for the 2002 with the 2.3 )

You may want to sign up for a subscription to alldata or mitchel if no one post what you need.

 

Thanks.

 

OK, I figured out where the pin goes (Sonnax calls it a retainer). I found wear marks on the VB and the VB gasket where the retainer goes.

Next question. I received my new spacer plate with bonded gaskets. However, it is not exactly like the OEM one. There is a hole in the OEM plate that's not in the new one. The hole is directly above the item shown in the photo. Looks like some kind of pressure relief valve.




So... did I get the wrong spacer plate? The P/N is 1L5Z-7Z490-EA. Or has it changed? Do I need that hole? If so, can I just drill it myself? I'm not a machinist, but I CAN drill a hole in a metal plate.

 

I would say as long as you ordered the kit from the TSB you should have the correct part.

I sure as hell would not drill a hole in anything unless instructed to do so.

 

Based on your comments above, and the symptoms my transmission has, I decided to go with just the spacer plate first. I think it's separate from the TSB kit. Then, depending on the symptoms I have after that, I'll make a decision on what to do next.

So this raises the question... the TSB requires the new spacer plate... But does the spacer plate have to be installed along with the TSB?

Is the TSB is all "bolt on" parts? I'm not sure I'd be comfortable drilling on the valve body (like you need to for the shift kits), or doing irreversible. Valve bodies are not cheap to replace.

 

As far as I can tell the TSB repair is provided via a kit, the kit includes instructions.

Follow those instructions to the letter provided your symptoms align with what is found in the TSB.

From what I can see the symptoms you have and claimed to have found seem to align with the TSB yet it is not a clear cut case that this kit will resolve your issues.

 

An update.

After a bit of research, I determined that the new spacer plate and the TSB kit need to go together. I.e., you can't install either one by itself. So I ordered the TSB kit, received it, installed it and the new spacer plate, and installed the VB back into the transmission. After filling the tranny with fluid, I went to try it out. My brake pedal went to the floor. %^&$*. Ok... gotta fix the brakes first. I had a leaking rear wheel cylinder. So I did a rear brake job along with replacing both wheel cylinders. Then FINALLY got to take it for a test drive. MUCH improved. Not perfect, but MUCH better. BTW, I also adjusted the bands. It now shifts smoothly through all the gears. I got the 4th gear shimmy once after slowing (but not enough to downshift) and then speeding back up. I probably DO have a worn OD band, and I know that "the right way" to fix it is replacement. I.e. a rebuild. But for now, it is finally usable. If I accelerate to a cruising speed, it smoothly shifts through the gears, and I get no shimmy in 4th. If I DO get that 4th gear shimmy, I can just hit the O/D button. Not a perfect solution, but I can live with it for now.

 

Another update.

What I thought was a 4th gear shimmy was actually just a misfire, which has now been fixed. Under about 1/2 throttle at low RPMs, the misfire would cause the whole truck to shimmy. Transmission seems to working as it should now. I can't tell that it's slipping or doing anything it shouldn't. I would say that at this point, it does not need a rebuild.