I really wish I had made one the last time I dropped the trans, would have been helpful. Your going to need basic hand tools, maybe an air compressor and impact gun for the y pipe bolts. W/o the pics, these are the steps: Park truck on level ground, jack the rear axle up and put on stands, put the trans in gear and remove the shifter. Drain the transmission and unbolt the driveline from the pinion yoke. Have another bucket handy for when you yank the slip yoke out of the trans. Unplug all three o2 sensors, unbolt and remove the y pipe. Pretty sure the muffler stays put. Unplug the battery and remove the starter (I just tied it out of the way). Remove all but two bolts holding the cross member in place. remove all the bell housing bolts but the ones at 10 and 2 o clock. Sac up and support the transmission, remove the crossmember, then remove your last two bolts. The trans should be all yours by now, pull it away from the clutch and set it down. All these steps are easy enough to visualize and Install is just reversed, For the line you cant get out, you may just have to cut it and replace the master cylinder as well. My trucks been a cali truck since Ive had it... No road salt or anything like that to make bolts difficult, hopefully your as lucky. If you feel up to it, you'll save a pile of cash doing this yourself. Plus you'll have all the help you could need in this forum. Good luck to you. -Ryan

 

there you go man. Just don't drop it on your leg like he did at the end.

 

Not to thread jack but your not out of warranty yet. Only 4 years old and only 50k miles. Take it back. Clutch is part of the 60k mile ford power train warranty.

 

god i wish mine was this easy to do. i am in the middle of replacing the clutch on my 2005 right now, trans is out waiting for clutch to go in tomoro. i broke a wrench trying to remove the driveshafts, had to use my impact gun. broke off both starter bolts flush with the bell housing, sucks drilling them out. the transfer case did not want to seperate from the trans. only thing going good for me is i did not have to remove the exhaust because of the bodylift. i was able to pull it back and turn the trans about 1/8 turn ccw and muscle it up over the exhaust.

 

well, i figure i'll update this thread.

the fitting never came loose, had to end up cutting it off...which means new slave. new slave meant new clutch..new clutch and cut master cylinder hard line means new master cylinder. I have a friend that works at Ford and got me all the parts for aroung 450. I think its ridiculous that these master cylinders are so ****! my clutch was pretty worn too for approx 85000 miles. anyways..trucks on the road..couldnt be happier..except if the damn heat was working..then it'd be perfect!

 

Glad to hear shes rolling again. How much fun did you have removing / installing the pilot bearing?

 

JUST to add some info to this..

Coming from many years of Mustang ownership and stock and aftermarket clutches I have found the clutches to be very weak in the Ranger

I have noticed that 130,000 kms is a popular change out on clutches in these trucks. I know several guys with them and buddy at work is just did his at 95,000 km. Another friend his cousin did his at 138,000km. I have 141kms on mine and have noticed a bit of slippage on some more spirited shifts. We had a truck at work with 35,000km and the clutch was splattered.. Serious abuse and he somehow got it Replaced under warranty.. He must have had a good story