well i finally got a 31 spline 8.8 off craigslist for 100 bucks. he was asking $250...but i talked him down. it has 3.73 and a limited slip. he said it has about 120,xxx miles and he gave me the exo leafs for free..(they give u lift over the ranger leafs right) anyway i took it apart and every thing looks good and not metal or water in it at all. its off a 1996 and has the disk brakes with brand new pads....how does the e-brake work? does it have internal drum brakes or does it use the disk brakes? also what will i have to do to make the disks work on my truck since i have drums now. and what parts do i need for the ebrake cause i didnt get any ebrake stuff from him. and when u put the new spring perches on do they go directly above the ones on it now or do i have to change the angle...(could i buy new perches and just weld them directly above the stock ones) thanks

 

ebrake is drum inside rotor. you need to pull the cable from an explorer. and perches are at a 6* angle

 

ok but is 6% directly above the other ones or is it different?

 

no tilt the driveline angle to 6 degrees and weld the perches on level.

 

no no no. you need to measure for your pinion angle. you need an angle finder. place it on the drive shaft flang on the tcase and it will be something. mine was neg 7* so you set your rear axle at pos 7*. yes they explorer leaf springs will give you around 2-3 inches of lift in the rear i have them also.

 

ok ill have to get an angle measurer thingy...lol

 

yea harbor freight has them for like 3 bucks

 

thats exactly where i was planing on going...lol

 

Ok for the e brake cablesa I'm going to try and describe what 4x4 extreme did. at the end of the cables on the ranger you'll see springs curled around the cable. Cut the end off the cable and now you'll have the spring off and the bit at the end off. Now you need a cable tie or what ever you call it (you attach the cable to itself and make an eye hole) to attach the cable back to itself. This will create a loop and you can put that around the lever to pull the e brakes. i haven't done this yet but saw it on 4x4 extreme.

 

ok ill have to look into that...thanks

 

let us know how it works because I'd like to do this when the weather gets better.

 

i still need to do my ebrake cables so let me know how it works out

 

well i picked up an e-brake cable from the JY today for $15.....now what do i need to do to my brake system to make the rear disks work right.......

and i have a brake problem with my truck now and i dont know if it will have any thing to do with the new brakes...my rear brakes wore down from new to completely gon in less than 10k miles. i am constantly having to readjust them so that my e-brake will work....when i do that for the first couple of days the rear end will lock up really easily....then a few days later it will work fine and if i slam on the brakes it will skid all 4 tires...then a couple weeks later the e-brake will stop working..(this is all a steady path...gets a little worse all the time...doesnt just go out on day) and if i slam on the brakes it will NOT skid...jsut slow down. also i only adjust my adjusters until i feel a slight drag on the rear tires when they are in the air...and the last time i took my rear drums off...about a week ago...my wheel cylinders were leaking and every thing had a thin layer of fluid on it....my dad says that the proportioning valve should adjust for brake ware and that no matter where the brakes are adjusted it should still skid just fine...is this right....do u think my prop valve is bad....also i dont drive around with my e-brake on so i dont know why i got such little mileage out of these brakes. thanks any help appreciated.

 

bump...and how well is the trac lock soposed to work.....me and my friend can make it slip by just grabbing the wheel studs....no tire or any thing.,....that seems pretty weak. also there is no oil in it cause i drained it all out and idk if that has any thing to do with it being easy to slip.....im thinking about rebuilding the trac lock and making it work better....also i read that if u stack the clutches C-P-C-P-C-P-C-P-C (or something like that) it works better than if u do the stock way...any body know where to get the rebuild kit for cheap? or is it supposed to slip that easy?

 

well i went to the JY today and i found some u-bolts.....i got them for free and the f-150 they came off of had just got them replaced and they are brand new....still gold colored and not even dirty...so that i lucked out on and i bought some perches from the local offroad shop for 20 bucks so now i have every thing i need except for the shock tabs...which ill make either out of 1/4 inch plate....or some 1/4 inch square tubing and cut one side off....so its open but still has 3 sides for strength...should have the axle in my truck by the end of the weekend...hopefully....and if i dont like the limited slip ill rebuild it later.

 

Drum brakes self adjust when you back up and use the brakes. When you're brakes are out of adjustment like your saying try backing up and hitting the brakes a few times. If they don't ever adjust up then you have a problem with your adjuster setup. Obviously wet brakes don't help either but when you swap to the discs you'll lose the leaky wheel cylinders anyways.

 

man the e-brakes on these things are a pain in the *** to do...took me an hour to do the first side and 40mins to do the other.....hope i dont have to replace those again.

 

OMGZ 30 minutes!!1!!1!!!

(sorry, but the only thing I have ever done on my truck that only takes 30 minutes is a damn oil change lol)

 

so did you get the ebrake hooked up and working? if so post some pics plz

 

no i dont have the axle in my truck yet...just doing maintenance on it before i get it in but i have the expo e-brake cable so it should be easy to hook up,....i hope.

 

yea i hope too lol mines in my truck and i didnt do my ebrake cables yet.

 

well i got the axle in my truck today....but i have a few problems....i bled my rear brakes but will i need ot bleed the fronts to since all the fluid drained out...cause the brakes dont work very good...i goes to the floor and just slows me down...also i got the ebrake cable from the expo in but the cable that runs to the passenger side is about 1 inch too long....like the internal cable is too long and i cant get it on the brake lever because of it...i pulled the cable out of the holder thing and pulled it about 1 inch farther than it should be and then i can get the hook on the brake lever on the axle...so basically i need to make the cable end about 1 inch longer so it will catch on the bracket and the brake will work on that side...but the one on the drivers side works fine...also i had to make a brake extension so the flex line would be long enough at full drop...also for about the last 4 inches of drop the drive shaft hits on the gas tank cross member and lifts the tranny and t-case up as the axle goes down...what sould i do about this? thanks

 

well i figured out how to fix my ebrake....and i bleed all my brakes starting at the RR, LR, RF, LR....farthest to closest to the master cylinder...and the pedal still goes to the floor and if u pump it it will get firmer but i can still push it all the way down...still will not lock any of the tires up....just slow me down.

 

do you have the calipers on the right side for the rear. i had them back wards at first and they wouldnt bleed then i flipped them and they bled in about 5 min

 

what do u mean? is there a left and a right? my driver bleeder valve is above the brake line and the passanger valve is below the brake line....is that right?